Barbwire menacingly tore the city apart, intimidating guards glare with intense ferocity, bullets holes lined the crumbling walls of the ruined buildings. The desolation and destruction is so complete that one would be forgiven for thinking that he has stepped onto a battlefield.

Indeed, this area had seen its share of bloodshed and chaos, but for the last 30 years, peace has prevailed and hordes of tourists have returned. Buildings have been restored and the people's lives have resumed a sense of normalcy.

Sadly though, the infamous Green Line still divides the island and Cypriots are still haunted by the bitter memories of the past. This moment, in Nicosia - the last divided capital of the world, staring at the Green Line - a UN-patrolled buffer zone, a bleak no-man's land; I shared the Cypriots' feeling of haplessness and frustration.

Cyprus, birthplace of the Goddess of Love, Aphrodite, is the third largest island in the Mediterranean. Its strategic location at the crossroad of 3 continents is both a blessing and a curse. Many invaders and settlers - Greeks, Romans, Byzantines, Lusingans, Venetians and Ottomans have left their indelible marks on the history of Cyprus and in the process, left a legacy of treasures and an immensely rich culture.

Today, Cyprus is made up predominantly of Greek and Turkish Cypriots. Their differences in their culture and religion had polarized the Cypriot community and had set the country on its path of civil war. These days however, many in the country long for reunification and return to the houses and lands that they had abandoned.

Nicosia, an underrated city shunted by tourists, has a charm that grows on me. The old city is clearly demarcated by the Venetian Walls, with its nine unique bastions and punctuated by 3 gates, namely the Kyrenia Gate, Pafos Gate and Famagusta Gate.

One of the most unique sights in Nicosia has to be the Ledra Palace Hotel. Once renowned as Cyprus most luxurious hotel, it has the misfortune of being situated in the United Nations (UN) Buffer Zone. Today, it is a shadow of its heydays and served as the lodging for the numerous UN troops that patrol the buffer zone. The checkpoint in front of the hotel served as the only place on the entire island where I can cross legitimately into North Cyprus for a few hours each day. Many bureaucratic obstacles however, are put up to discourage us from making the crossing:

• Only tourists are allowed to make the crossing. Locals can only peer across the fence.
• We are subjected to a 10 minutes briefing on the Dos and Don'ts before we are permitted to cross.
• We are constantly being reminded that we are crossing into 'an illegal country which has no reason for its existence'
• To ensure that we do not bring back any propaganda materials, we are subjected to an intensive search of our bags when we return.

Even more fascinating are the sights of the abandoned shops that lined the crossing. Their destinies are intertwined with the political impasse. Frozen in time since 1974, an eerie silence had descended upon them. Although their shutters are tightly shut, peering into the gloomy interiors through the dusty windowpanes, we can still find clothing dating from 70s being displayed.

The painful silence was conspicuously interrupted by the wailing of a few old ladies. Clutching the pictures of their loved ones that were killed or had gone missing during the occupation, their grief are so deep and so immense. Time had not diminished their sorrow or resentment in their hearts. Their wounds are still searing with pain and their hearts are still engulfed by agony.

16th Century Buyuk Han

North Nicosia seems like a backwater part of the capital, neglected and forgotten by the world. Crossing the Green Line, we seem to be transported back in time to another era. Less people, less vehicles, North Nicosia exudes a charm that is lost in rapid developments elsewhere.

Dusty back streets where timeworn artisans ply their crafts and trades, ancient markets displaying a kaleidoscope of fruits and vegetables: these are just some of the sights that North Nicosia offers. Among the numerous attractions, those that deserve special mentions include the Buyuk Han, Buyuk Hamman, Cami Selimiye and the Museum of Barbarism.

The Buyuk Han is an extremely well preserved 16th Century inn. 67 rooms were built on 2 storeys overlooking a central courtyard. In the past, this layout offered weary travelers the opportunity to rest their horses and mingled and shared their anecdotes with each other.

If Buyuk Han is grand, then Buyuk Hamman is unique. The world famous Turkish bath was originally part of the 14th Century Church of St. George of the Latins. Today, tucked in an obscure corner of the city, it served to relieve the aching muscles of the road weary traveler. On the contrary, Cami Selimiye, North Nicosia's most prominent landmark, began its journey as the Church of the Agia Sofia in the 14th Century. During the rule of the Ottoman Empire, the Church was converted to a mosque by the addition of two minarets, which explained its unique architecture.

On the other hand, the visit to Museum of Barbarism is a sobering experience for me. The macabre and grotesque exhibits serve as a stark reminder to the Turkish Cypriots and the world the 'atrocities' committed by the Greek Cypriots. The grisly exhibits include life-like figures of decapitated corpses and haunting photographs of victims of the war.

An hour drive from Nicosia brought us to the city of Famagusta and the infamous ghost town of Varosha. Peering through the barbed wire into Varosha is an eerie and haunting experience. Like the shops at the Ledra Palace Border Crossing, the houses, hotels and shops in this resort town have been frozen in time and left untouched for 30 years! Boutiques display clothes from the 70s, car showrooms with car models dating from that period, a crane in the midst of the construction of a hotel. Prior to the Turkish invasion, Varosha was Cyprus premier beach resort. As Turkish troops advanced into the city, Varosha?s predominantly Greek Cypriot population fled, taking little more than their clothes that they wore. For reasons unknown, the Turkish army chose to barricade the entire town and till today, it remained abandoned and forlorn.

Spectacular View of the Mediterranean Sea from Kyrenia Castle

If Nicosia is soulful and Varosha is eerie, then Kyrenia, the jewel of North Cyprus is spectacularly picturesque. The horseshoe-shaped harbour, which restaurants, bars and shops nestled, has graced numerous postcards and travel magazines and inspired numerous artisans over the years.

Kyrenia Castle looms impressively at one end of the harbour. We had a great time getting lost in the labyrinths while exploring the various nooks and corners of the castle. The view at the top of the castle is truly breathtaking - rolling mountains rushed down to meet the turquoise waters of the Mediterranean. Waves pound mercilessly against the century old breakwater, sending out a spectacle of sprays.

Kyrenia Castle

The rooms and chambers that made up the living quarters and the prison can be found lining the central courtyard. The Shipwreck Museum contains the meticulously preserved remains of a wooden hulled cargo boat - apparently the largest salvaged shipwreck in the world!

A three hours drive from Kyrenia brought us to the jewels of Cyprus - the Troddos Mountains. The Troddos Mountains rise majestically above the scorching plains of Cyprus and cumulate in Mount Olympus, the highest peak in Cyprus. The Troddos Mountains are dotted with hidden treasures - beautiful frescoed monasteries, hiking trails that crisscrossed quaint villages and villagers with their beaming smiles and hospitality.

The scenic Troddos Mountain

Every village is brimming with its unique characteristic. Omodos is famed for producing some of Cyprus best wine. Traditional stone houses line the cobbled winding streets; vineyards sprawled abundantly over the villages. A leisurely stroll through the village will definitely be met by a sincere invitation to their humble abodes to sample their wines. We went for a Turkish coffee at the Central Square and in a short while, we were surrounded by the locals who were eager to chat with us.

A local pub in Omodos

Kakopetria is the main village in the Solea Valley. Although it is the hub for activities in the valley, it is by no means large or busy. With a population less than 200, it is a pleasant place for us to while away a lazy afternoon. We had coffee along the banks of the Karycots River that meanders through the village and mingled with the locals. We also took a leisurely stroll along the winding paths of the village and bought intricate handicrafts laboriously made by the villagers. There is certainly something amazing about the old-world atmosphere of Kakopetria.

The Cobbled Streets of Troddos Villages

Although Cyprus is small in size, she gave us many lingering memories. From the warmth and hospitality of her people to her breathtaking sights, she has never ceased to amaze us. As our plane flew over the island, I could only wish that the cracks in the country can be mended soon and that peace can finally prevail over Aphrodite's blessed land.