JOBS - COMPLETED AND TO BE COMPLETED

I am looking for anything you see posted here. If you have or know of a good deal on anything listed, please let me know at seastrutter@gmail.com

LIST OF JOBS COMPLETED TO DATE 

Stainless Steel Rudder and Tiller Assembly

Total Time: 10 hours

Total Cost: $450

Materials:

- 1/4" Stainless plate and 1" Stainless tube from scrapyard - $200

- Tiller from West marine - $150

- Misc. Bolts and hardward, grinding disks, welding wire - $100

The Job:

I got some help from Steven on this one as I'm not much of a metal worker. I started by making a pattern from card paper of another B25's rudder that was out of the water at QCYC (Thanks Trevor). That pattern was then traced onto sections of the stainless plate, which was only about a foot wide. After cutting the sections with a grinder, they were welded together to form one heluva-tough rudder. The rudder shaft was then welded on, which made the whole thing look like a huge battle axe! The shoe was made from a strip of plate about 1/4"x2"x24" which was bent into a "U" shape to fit around the back of the keel. This took about 2 hours, a sledgehammer, huge clamps, a couple of cinderblocks, a 220# guy, and LOTS of swearing.

Once everything was fabricated, I had Uli Lift the stern of the boat up high and leave it in the hydraulic trailer overnight. The rudder was installed, shoe was bolted in, and the rudder shaft tube was glassed around the rudder shaft in place. I wrapped newspaper around the shaft and then glassed over the newspaper so that there was some room between the shaft and inside of tube. I had hoped that the newspaper would simply disolve over the summer but I think there is some left and it makes the steering pretty tight.

 

New Cushions and Covers

Total Time: 10 hours

Total Cost: $800

Materials:

- Foam from "Foamite" - $600

- Burgundy Vinyle - $200

The Job:

Patterns where made by measuring from the straight edge to the curved edge at one foot intervals, then transferring that to card paper, and then connecting the dots while adding a little curve by eye. This is more accuratley done with a batten, which I did not have. The V-berth was a little trickier, and I followed the same principal, taking the total width at one foot increments. I then  plotted those onto cardpaper along a centerline, simply taking each measurement and putting half on one side of the line, and half on the other. These patterns took a few hours to make and the work is very boring and repetitive. I knew it would be, so I decided to plan ahead and got a nice bottle of scotch and a six pack. After a couple of pops and "Bad bad Leroy Brown" on full blast the job gets a lot better! 

Both settee and v-berth is medium-high density foam. The settee is 4" and the v-berth is 5". I can't stress how important an investment good foam is. on my last boat I slept on standard 4" cheapo stuff, not bad, but this is gonna be my home! The new stuff is like sleeping on a marshmellow! 

 

 

 

 

 

 TO DO

 Winter - Spring - Summer - Non-Priority - COMPLETED

 

 

Install Stanchions and Lifelines

• Stanchions x4
• Cable
• Through-Deck eye bolts for terminating line end x2
• Clasp swage or cable clamps for terminating line ends
• Port side pulpit support

Strap-down Battery

• Straps
• Heavy bolts for anchors

Strap-down holding tank

• Strap
• Heavy eye bolts for anchors

Add link tangs to shrouds

• Link Tangs

Bolt down Winches

• Bolts, nuts, washers x10
• Plywood backing plates x2

Screw in Cam cleats for jib sheets

• Bolts, nuts, washers x 4

Install jack-lines

• Through-Deck eye bolts for terminating line ends x3
• Eye-bolt that attaches to mast
• Webbing (Europe bound)

Adapt Boom

                       - Heavy Bolt

Install VHF Antenna and cable

    -Masthead Whip w/ mount

    -40’ Coax cable w/connectors

Install Boomvang

• 3/8" Double block
• 3/8" Double block w/becket
• 3/8" Double braid line x 20’

Install Traveler and mainsheet system

    - Mainsheet 70’ 3/8" double braid

Add Docklines

• Aft and fore - 20’ 5/8" to ¾" three strand nylon x4
• Spring – 30’ 5/8" to ¾" three strand nylon x4
• Splicing fid

Add Anchorline and Anchors

• Main Anchor – 33# claw, 100’ chain, 200’ 5/8" to ¾"three strand nylon
• Secondary – 25# Danforth 30’ chain, 150’ 5/8" to ¾"three strand nylon
• Stern Anchor - 15# Danforth 30’ chain, 150’ 5/8" to ¾"three strand nylon

 

Screw in AC and DC panels

    - Stainless Screws

Another coat of Cetol and Cetol Gloss with non-slip

• Quart of Cetol Light
• Sandpaper (120, 150, 180, 200)

Wax and polish hull

    - Gelcoat restore

Bottom Paint

• Gallon of bottom Paint

• Paint for rudder (can be applied over stainless)

• Sandpaper, Brushes, Masks

Wind Scoop for forward hatch

- Scoop

Make and install Bimini

- Houseboat Canvas "Storm Canvas"?

Build and Install Mast Brace/Davits
- Measure and Create Schematic

Plywood cutout for vee-berth

- ½" – ¾" Plywood (2’x2’)

Drawers – Under settees, under bathroom "sink"

• Roto-Zip
• Teak Ply ½" x 1’ x 4’ for drawer faces
• Exterior grade ½" x 4’x 8’ for drawers

Hatch for battery compartment

• ½" x 2’ x 2’ Teak Ply
• Small brass hinges x2

Adjust saloon door, install latch

• Sandpaper
• Door latch for ½" ply

Finish carving and install Anna Maria

• Roto-Zip
• Gold paint
• Small paintbrush
• Brass Bolts

Install Swim ladder

• Teak boards (Already have)
• Stainless or Brass L brackets 4"x4"
• Stainless or Brass bolts
• Drop-down step (Already Have)

 

 

Install vented loop to head

• Vented Loop for ½" ID hose
• Approx. 10’ ½" ID hose (Should already have)
• All Stainless hose-clamps for ½" Hose

Redo head plumbing with stink proof hose and add overboard discharge

• Approx. 20’ x 1 ½" ID Stink-proof below waterline hose
• 1 ½" Stainless hose clamps x 12
• Vented Loop for 1 ½"?
• Y-valve with selector

Re-bed through-hulls and install ball valves

• Large tube of 5200
• 1 ½" Through-hulls with ball valves x 3
• Scrap exterior ply for backing
• Adapters to accept barbed hose 1 ½" x 3

Bed cockpit drains and plumb out through through-hulls

• 5200
• 1 ½" Below waterline hose (already have)
• Cockpit drains, surface mount to 1 ½" barb x2
• 1 ½" Stainless hose clamp x 8

Re-build manual bilge-pump and plumb in

Weld on cheeks for tiller and re-attach

Add glass to upper and lower rudder tube

• Chopped-strand/woven roving x 2 meters
• Polyester resin x 1 gal
• MEKP catalyst
• Glassing Kit

Bed and screw on engine-hatch hinges

• 5200
• Hinges (Already have)
• Small Bolts

Add two bottom bolts to battery charger

• 5200
• Small Bolts

Install and Cetol trailer boards

• How to install trailer boards from internet
• Large L clamps
• #10 screws

Install new regulator and burner on BBQ

- New Regulator for Force 10 bbq

Screw in oil lamp and a couple of hooks to hang

• Heavy brass screws ½" x 3
• Brass hook to hang oil lamp, stand-off from bulkhead

Build table and install

• Design and blueprint table
• Foamcore mockup of table

Design and install gimbal/slide out system for stove or Sink stove into counter

Small slide curtains for ports

• Burgundy curtain fabric x 2 yards
• ¼" Teak/Mahogony Dowel
• Small pieces of teak to stand off curtain dowling

Get Tune-up for Yamaha

- 9.9 1994 Yamaha 4 stroke high thrust manual

Vent for water tank

• ½" male thread to ½" male barb
• ½" ID Clear cheap hose x 4’

Put Reef points in mainsail and Trim off 2 feet

- Take mainsail to genco

Reinforce Motor Bracket w/ Plywood and glass

- Exterior Plywood 1" x 2’x 2’

- Chopped-strand/woven roving x 2 meters

Navigation Lights

- Stern (Already have)

• Red/Green Bow (Already have)
• Masthead Anchor Light
• Decklight / Steaming Light

Glass over holes in deck

• Glass Kit
• Scraps of glass and resin

Bolt-in backstay chainplate

                       -   Stainless bolts

                       -    Plywood for backing