KELIMUTU LAKES

        ILI API VOLCANO
               ASCENT

DINNER IN KUPANG

                                                                                    BEACH LANDING

26th July to 22nd  October                                                                                                              

The Sail Indonesia Rally commenced in Darwin at the end of July. 120 yachts departed more or less at the same time but the fleet soon spread out along the 450 nautical mile route. A 10 knot SE wind and a favourable current gave everyone a good start but the weather forecast had indicated earlier that the 4 day or so passage would mainly be covered in light winds. As darkness closed in on the first night, the ocean flickered with various shades of red, green and white lights. Probably for the first time for many yachts on ocean crossings there were many other yachts close by. The three and a half days were mainly uneventful as the motorsail across the Timor Sea unfolded. There was a nice breeze of 15 knots on the last night before making landful at Timor. The sail up the strait between Roti and Timor was not full of ship traffic as we thought it might be but was quite pleasant. The arrival at the city of Kupang was a little daunting as more masts appeared as we closed in but we soon found a place to anchor in 20m half a mile from the beach in the centre of town. Kupang is a bustling city crammed with motorbikes and bemos (minibuses) and not too many private cars. A few days were spent here completing formalities for entering Indonesia by yacht. Seemingly, it is much easier to enter by air.  Once papers were signed yachts were off some heading fo Alor. We commenced our journey in that direction but with an unfavourable current and contrary winds we decided to head for the island of Lembata through the Lamakera Strait. For most of the 100 mile trip we managed to sail towards the towering volcanoes of the island group , an awesome sight.

After some days of enjoying the beautiful scenery we passed through the strait to the town of Lewoleba. Here, we climbed Ili Api volcano (1700m) that beckoned as we sailed below it. Visited Lewolein village where traditional meets modern and we also were indulged in a welcome feast to Nusa Tenggara and a calvacade tour around the town. This part of Indonesia loves song and dance.

From here we cruised along the coast of Flores below the volcanoes visiting Sagu Bay ( a Moslem fishing village,  Waimalung ( a quiet fishing village) Maumere (Seaworld), Batu Boga ( an uninhabited bay), Maurole (a small coastal community), Lingeh ( a village with a reef), Si Pau Bay ( a lovely enclosed bay with long tailed macaques in the mangroves), Pulau Sabibi (crystal clear water with monkeys on the beach), The island group of Komodo (stunning -clear water-dragons-monkeys-trekking). We then sailed along the coast of Sumbawa to Bima harbour,Raba village, the village of Kilo, Pulau Medang (yachty drinks on the beach), Gili Lawang (Lombok), Gili Aer (touristy, snorkelling, cheap restaurants, Teluk Kombel (Lombok), Bali (Lovina Beach), Pulau Raas ( a remote island group in the Java Sea), Pulau Bawean ( a stand alone island in the Java Sea), Kumai River (not to be missed -orangutans). Belitung ( final rally events - unforgettable), Pulau Gaspar (where the rainforest meets the sea), Pulau Bangka ( a short stop) and we motorsailed overnight to Pulau Kentar and the equator, Pulau Mesanak ( another short stop) and then onto the southern tip of Batam (Pulau Kila) where we prepared tactics for crossing the nail-biting Singapore Strait. Three boats together within metres of each other so that the big ships in the two-way system did not have to ponder over whether they had to dodge each one individually. A nice north westerly pushed us along as we headed for Sebana Cove Marina. A sigh of relief as we approached the entrance to the Santi River with a rather gloomy sky as a backdrop.

Diving and snorkelling.

The clear water was generally everywhere along the route. At Lemakera Strait, Maumere, Lingeh, Pulau Sabibi there were some reefs for snorkelling but the star spot was Gili Lawa Laut a bay on the northern tip of Komodo Island. It was equally as good round the corner at Batu Montja where there was some nice undamaged coral. Gili Aer an island just offshore from Lombok in Selat Lombok has a good reef for diving and snorkelling as well and a dive and snorkelling boat operates from there.

Indonesian hospitality and Sail Indonesia events.

At all the venues along the route there was an excellent welcome from each island. A stall was set up by Indonesian tourism officials and Sail Indonesia. In most places there was a harbour master present to sign a book given to us in Kupang. Sometimes there was a fee to be paid.

 Lewoleba-Lembata

Anchorage.

There was plenty of room for all the yachts and the anchorage was sheltered.  Shore access was easy with guards for the dinghies for a nominal fee.

Activities

A calvacade of all Sail Indonesia participants introduced us to Lembata Island. We toured around the town in open trucks and on the backs of motorbikes to crowds of cheering, smiling onlookers. A welcome dinner took place with entertainment at a nearby hotel and there was outdoor entertainment on the seafront at night. Trips were arranged to Lewolein village, A whaling village and to the base of Ili Api volcanoe. All were full day trips at a nominal cost including a guide. There were several kiosks selling basics including  beer and soft drinks near the waterfront.

Diesel and water

These are available carried in containers.

Maumere - Seaworld

Anchorage

This is a deep anchorage 24 m if anchored further out. It is bounded by two reefs making it very sheltered from the SE wind.

Activities

An excellent welcome dinner took place here where the Kiwi contingent put on an act and tours were made to the Kelimutu coloured lakes in minibuses for a few dollars. A worthwhile trip.Also canoe racing took place as it coincided with the rally tschedule.

There were trips made into Maumere by bemo to the ATM and the market. There were several cheap restaurants on the sea front including the Seaworld resort which welcomed yachts.Diving could be arranged here.

 Diesel and water

These can be arranged in jerrycans and brought out to your yacht.

Maurole (Mwsambe Bay)

This was the next rally stop after Maumere. A pretty beach but a substantial swell was breaking causing us to only stay one night and miss the rally dinner. The community had gone a long way to make this a memorable rally stop and those who stayed had a great time with some using this place to get to the Kelimutu coloured lakes. It was reported that a better and more comfortable anchorage was found a mile or so east down the beach from the rally venue.

Labuan Bajo - Komodo

 This is the stepping-stone for Rinca and Komodo Islands which abound with wildlife. Komodo dragons and Long tailed macaques can be seen readily on the beaches of these two islands. Guided walks to see Komodo dragons can be had at a nominal fee at the Park headquarters on both Rinca and Komodo islands.

There are two anchorages in this area one by the Eco-resort which is a 3Km walk to the town of Labuan Bajo and the other is off the town itself deeper but more convenient and you can tie your dinghy on one of the local boat floating pontoons.Both are secure and are good holding in mud. The actual rally welcome took place in the public park between the two anchorages. The anchorage is good here, as well, but keep clear of the fringing reef close inshore. The rally event was excellent  like everywhere with food and entertainment at no charge.

TIPS FOR SAILING THROUGH THE INDONESIAN ISLANDS:-

1. 80m of anchor chain for the anchorages which are more than 20m deep (saves other yachties from towing your yacht back to shore when it drags)

2. Jerry cans for collecting diesel and a way of filtering diesel into your tanks.

3. Spare parts for your engine and other mechanical items e.g. winch, watermaker, computer. Only limited parts available and it's a 10 day plus wait for shipping from overseas and that's to Bali. Flores and Sumbawa might take months. Who Knows!

4. Some western style food items are hard to get like cheese, wine and frozen meat (so stock up). Bintang beer is readily available except in Kumai where there was a liquor ban (2008)

5. There are no supermarkets in Lembata and most of Flores only local tokos selling biscuits,rice, tin fish, soap, snack foods and soft drinks but fresh fruit and veg are available at local markets. There is a small supermarket in Labuan Bajo(Flores west end), Mataram (Lombok) and Singaraja (Bali)

Teluk Kombel - Lombok

After sailing and motoring from Komodo across the top of Sumbawa passed Bima harbour to Pulau Medang