Preface

 

I might amaze on my self sometimes, that what drove me in this kind of completely barren and isolated area of Himachal. Well I disclose it to you the reasons:

·        Hundreds of suggestions from my near and dear to not go there and that to be alone never.

·        Eyes of my wife asking every time to me as I looked to her…what…why….please no.

·        Self questioning to me, measuring my stamina and potential.

·        Last but not the least, hours spent in Gym, building stamina and reducing weight, just for this trip.

 

I heartily thankful to all those friends who initially going on this trip with me, but back out at last moment, and provided me a strong reason to prove myself by doing this trip all alone.

 

I thanks to my wife, who understand and admire my feelings because of which I successfully completed this trip.

 

Many thanks to Bakshinder (my friend) for dropping me at Bus stand at 1:00AM in the night.

 

                                                                     Journey Begins

 

Day 1: Chandigarh – Sangla Valley (325Kms – 16hrs in bus)

 

This valley is indeed a good place to visit, nice people with amazing landscapes. This picturesque town is a home of some 1968 people. Altitude is 2700m.

It took me 16 odd hours to reach there in an ordinary roadways bus that ply between CHD-SANGLA (departure from CHD is 1:50AM). The road covered some of the most beautiful hill satiations like SHIMLA – NARKANDA – SARAHAN.

Initially I was afraid of my decision when bus conductor told me that the bus would reach Sangla at around 6-7PM next day. I never did such a long journey though spent at max 12-13 hours in bus (on the way to Kedarnath and Gangotri), but 16-17 hrs was way too much.  Never mind I thought and booked a seat to Sangla and believe me I was the only person from Chandigarh that had taken such a long journey. I was reached Sangla by 5PM (thanks to driver).

Guest house was available at very reasonable rate due to off-season, after all in just 300 bucks where you can find a well maintained room with hot water & color TV in such a price (BAPSA GUEST HOUSE). This is located just adjacent to Sangla bus stand (next to bridge).

I was very tired so took a quick wash and relaxed a bit.

 

When I was awaken it had been already dusk. I looked over the guest house and the apple orchard growing behind the guest house (in fact stolen 1-2 apple, but they were not ripping properly). Took some snap shot from the guest house. After that I took a short walk to the Sangla village and return to main market at 9:00PM. Had dinner (not very good though fine for me) at a local restaurant (Momo’s, Veg Soup, Thupka).

 

Total expanses for the day: 325 (Bus Fare) + 15 (Water Bottle) + 25 (breakfast) + 300 (Room Rent) + 70 (dinner) = Rs735

 

                                     

            Sangla Valley from Hotel

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Day2: Sangla – Chitkul – Kalpa (26 + 65 = 91Kms)

 

The day was started at early for me, woke up at 5:00AM, and took some snaps (only reason for waking up early was to take some snaps when clouds were minimal in the sky).  Alas! My prayers were unheard and the sky was full of Clouds, never mind though it’s Mother Nature and we should admire it.

I was refreshed from daily activities and headed towards Kamru Village (just adjacent to Sangla). There was lots of apple orchard on the way. It’s the short trek to Kamru Village (took 30 minutes at an average speed from Sangla). This village is the home of a very famous (at least in that region) temple cum fort THE KAMRU FORT. This temple borrowed its name from Famous Kamakhya Devi Temple situated in Assam.  It’s very strange to me but the local person cum guide Chaman told me the same. Animal scarification is still practiced here. He said that this temple is some 1100yrs old and the fort still having jewelries worth of millions of rupees. From temple one can capture the very nice view of Sangla Valley. I returned to Sangla at around 10AM.

Had breakfast in no time (Omelets + Milk) and looking for the bus/taxi to Chitkul. I came to know that bus would arrived at 12:00PM and halt in Chitkul for merely 10-15 minutes. So I decided to take a taxi rather than waiting for the bus and luckily got a shared taxi in just 50 bucks.

This was not just the journey of mere 26kms or from 2700-3300mts; rather it was a crossing a little crowded Sangla to almost uninhabited and last village of Chitkul on Sangla side, ahead of which lies China Border. This beautiful village settled along Bapsa River with a head count of 768 people. En-route lies Raksham Village, like wise Chitkula very quiet village.

As I had sufficient time so did a short trek ahead of Chitkul (around 2-2.5kms). Wind blowing at full velocity and weather is pleasant. All the peaks were full of clouds and to my disappointment there was no snow on any of the peaks (many thanks to global warming). There were some fields and Peas grown in them (this is their main cultivation in this remote region).

Mountains in this region are counterpart of one we find at Sangla Valley, totally barren & full of boulders.

I came back to Chitkul at round 1:20PM and waited for bus at the bus stand. Bus was sharply arrived at 1:30PM and headed for Reckong Peo (main district of Kinnaur region). It halted at Sangla for some time so provided me enough time to collect my Rucksack from guest house. Thanks to owner and paid him the amount and return to bus.

I was reached Peo at 5:15PM and again took a bus to reach Kalpa (reached at 6:00PM, skipped lunch). Booked a room in hotel MONTAIN VIEW (just a few steps away from bust stand in lower Kalpa). It was not such a decent accommodation but of OK type and found a room in 200 bucks (it was ok for me as I had to leave early next day for KAZA, bus to KAZA would departed from Peo at 7:30AM). Put my rucksack in room and took a hot water bath in no time.

Kalpa is a very good place with superb views of snow clad mountains (Kinner Kailash Range). Did some quick photography, as it was already twilight by that time. This place really influenced me with some great views. Admired the beauty spread all over the place from hotel’s terrace.

Had dinner with Egg Chowmin and Veg. Thali followed by a short walk around town and chitchatting with local people.

 

Total expenses for the day: 200 (room rent) + 10 (WB) + 25 (breakfast) + 50 (shared taxi to Chitkul) + 65 (fare to Kalpa from Chitkul) + 10 (WB) + 70 (dinner) = Rs430

 

 

                                                          Kamru Village from Sangla

 

 

 

                                                                       Chitkul Valley

 

                                                             An Evening in Kalpa

 

 

                                                          View of Parvati from Kalpa

 

                                     

                                                         Kinner Kailash from Kalpa

 

 

 

Day3: Kalpa –PEO – Dhankar (180kms + 2kms trek)

 

Woke up early in the morning in expectations of some good views but unfortunately clouds covered the horizon. Still I captured some of the views in my camera. I left for Peo at around 6:15AM on foot as I was afraid of missing the only bus to Kaza that scheduled at 7:30AM from Peo (local told me that these buses are very punctual and leave on time). But to my surprise there was one private bus also plied between Kalpa and Peo at 6:30AM and reached Peo at 7:00AM. I was able to catch this bus after covering a distance of 2Kms (total distance from Peo – Kalpa is 10kms). The fare was some 10Rs. Weather was cold and pleasant.

At bus stand I talked to locals and they suggested me to go directly Dhankar rather staying at Tabo and wasting a whole day. It seems to be a good idea for me as I had short of time (taking such a long leave would not be possible for me).

I started my journey to Dhankar at sharp 7:30AM (this was indeed a splendid job from HRTC). Bus was good and seats were so properly designed to provide every comfortable to passengers.

First halt was taken at Spillow (where the permits were checked for the foreigners and after that there are no Mobile signals till Kaza) and the ITBP folks check the entire bus. The whole area now onwards up to Sumdo called as Inner Line Area and share its boundaries with Tibet. Indian doesn’t need any Inner line permit but foreigners must have that permit for visiting these area. From Spillow the entire landscape changed of sudden and mountains becomes higher and higher with very little or no vegetations. The narrow but good spiral shaped meatled road runs against the flow of Sutlej River which flows along with the road up to Jangi/Khab (where Spiti and Sutlej meets each other). The road from Jangi/Khab then bifurcated to Shipki-La and Spiti. Shipki-La (Tibetan border) is just 3-4Kms from Jangi and I wish that if I could have jeep.

On the route lies small and beautiful village Nako, famous for a small beautiful lake and provide the panoramic views of Zanskar range. Ahead of this village lies Malling Nalah, the most dangerous and disturbed point (which may close almost all the season for heavy vehicles). But to my luck this point was opened two day back and my bus successfully passed through it and believe me that was terrific experience as the ladies in bus start praying and gentlemen started looking all around in panic. We could even hear the thump of stones that stroked with the roof of bus. There was just enough space to drive the bus and if it could an inch here or there we all were dead. Well after passing two more small jeeps, that was coming from opposite direction, a sudden bang and the road again closed for uncertain period. Basically there is loose sand and water easily oozes out from it and make situation worse, even border security force try to maintain the this point 24*7 hrs, but that totally waste.     

Sumdo is the last post in Kinnaur area after that Spiti starts. Sumdo is just a check post for ITBP people and Kaurik border was just 12Kms from here (permission to visit Kaurik border can get from Peo). Here lies the Spiti and Parichu rivers confluence. Parichu River said to be the main cause for flood into this area (China said to be built some lakes at their side and blast them time to time so that flood can create panic in this area and costs a huge amount in terms of life and money).

Had lunch of Rice-Dal at Hurling (Rice-Dal was my main food for the entire journey with some potatoes either in gravy or simple). There is a small village name Chandigarh (amazing na!!) lies en-route. It is said that ITBP occupied there land for the check post and provided them land in Chandigarh city, but villagers refused to go from here and developed their own village in this terrain and named it Chandigarh.

There was some Tibetan protesting on the road 2Kms short of Tabo and demanding to went to Tibet. My sympathy is with them as they fight for their freedom but Alas!

En-route is Gio village (remotest adjacent to Tibet border) some 26Kms from the main highway. It said to be famous for a Mummy that they found some time back and it is believed that its Nails and Hairs still growing. Well Gio is not possible for me so leave that for while (like Shipki-La until my next visit to this place).

Bus dropped me some 1kms beyond Dhankar Village, from there I started my trek, 2-2.5Kms very steep climb with my 15kg rucksack. Reached Dhankar Monastery at 6:30PM and it took me complete 1:30hrs to reach there from highway (there is another not so steep road but that is some 9kms long).

Rent a single bed in 100 bucks (a separate room was costs around 300 bucks) and took a bath in hot water. Weather in evening was very cold here. Did some quick photography and had dinner (nice Rice-Dal). This rest house is owned by the Dhankar Gompa only. The dormitory was emptied and I was the only person that stayed there (really a good deal in 100 bucks).

Dhankar is a small village situated at al altitude of some 3300mts. It provides the best view of entire valley with the confluence of Pin and Spiti River. This quiet place is famous for Dhankar Monastery which is said to be 1000yrs old and first monastery that built in this area. Most of its part collapsed (the whole monastery built upon sand mountains which obviously erodes by wind and water). This area called as Cold Desert as it receive very little or no rains. This erosion is a great threat to this remaining part and plans will execute for saving this.

People are soft spoken and greet with Jule (Tibetan word means Hello in English). Here I met some people from a NGO, PRAGAYA. They work for improving the situation of people in this remote region and preserve the local customs.

 

Expenses: 180 (bus fare) + 30 (Lunch) + 30 (breakfast) + 20 (WB) + 100(room rent) + 50 (dinner) = Rs410

 

                                                         Satuluj & Spiti Confluence

 

 

                                                                    Nako Village

 

                                               

                                                                    Malling Nallah

 

                                     

                                                              Tibeten Protesters near Tabo

 

 

 

Day4: Dhankar – Kaza – Kibber – Key – Kaza – Losar (26Kms + 26 Kms + 12Kms + 55Kms)

 

As usual woke up at 6:00AM and after refreshing from daily activities start taking snaps of surrounding. I needed to make call to home and so I trek to some 2Kms from Dhankar (where local people said that mobile works). To my disappointment there was no network coverage at suggested point (but it provide you some great views) and the only PSTN in the village was not working due to non payment of bill. So now I had to wait till Kaza for any call to my home.

Visited the Dhankar monastery, it is in weak shape and some renovation work going on. There I met a priest who guide me all the monastery and shown me some really old books and other details. I made some donation for the renovation of the monastery. I climbed to its roof and bingo, what a great & splendid view it provided. Air blown at its full and praying flags flew like kites in the sky.

Came back to guest house and picked only taxi of the town. Its driver Akash, believe me the most daring person, who easily accommodated 18-20 people in his Sumo car that to with luggage and all, dropped me Kaza at 11:00AM. To my hard luck my mobile won’t work here, so I located a STD booth and made call to my home (tell them it won’t possible for me to contact you for other 2 days).

After that I collected some information from local and came to knew that bus to Kibber would be at 5:30PM and it restricted one to spend a night in Kibber only. There is nothing much in Kaza except it serves as the base for all the major destinations around.

Kaza situated at an elevation of 3600mts and serves as the market for all the villages lies in this remote area. This is rather commercialized town and has each basic amenity. To save the time I decided to hire a taxi, & the deal would finalize on 600 bucks. I and my partner (a guy from France agreed to pay his share of 200 bucks as he had to go Kibber only) left for Kibber at 12:30PM.

Kibber is the very beautiful village and said to be the highest village that can connect via motorable road (although there are other villages in this area which are much higher than that of Kibber). This village situated at an elevation of 4200mts. Visited Key monastery while coming back to Kaza. This monastery situated at top of a hill and provided the splendid view from front.

Back to Kaza at 4:00PM and had lunch (delicious Momo’s and Soup). I planned to go till Losar by today as I had short of time and it helped me to get accmilitzed for the ChanderTaal trek.

(I missed some more good places like Langza, Kaumik etc, but never mind, will complete them in my next trip).

Bus to Losar came at very late at 6:00PM and took complete 2 hrs to complete a very rough journey of 55kms to Losar. This village situated at an elevation of 4070mts and servers as the base for Kunzum pass. Checked into the guest house (believe me it was the dirtiest place I had ever seen, not recommended at all, you can try one that adjacent to a water body not this that near to the police booth), in 150 bucks. But this saved my whole one day so I ignored it at that moment.

 

Expenses: 25 (breakfast) + 50 (fare to Kaza) + 52 (telephone calls) + 400 (taxi) + 85 (lunch) + 55 (bus fare) + 25 (WB) + 100 (misc.) = Rs792

 

                                                         Morning at Dhankar Monastery

 

 

                                                                    20 People in Sumo

 

 

                                                                    Kibber Village

 

                           

                                                      A Remote village seen from Kibber

 

 

                                                          Inside view of KEY monastery

 

                                     

                                                         Front view of KEY monastery

 

 

                                                                    Waiting for bus at Kaza

 

 

Day5: Losar – Kunzum – ChanderTaal – Batal (18Kms + 10Kms trek + 14Kms Trek)

 

Woke up early and refreshed in no time. Had tea and biscuits (regretted to have tea, created gastric problem that I faced all the way). Bus sharply arrived at 6:30 AM (this bus started from Kaza at 4:30AM and next one at 7:30AM).

Arrived Kunzum at 8:15AM, by that time the whole surrounding covered in the envelope of clouds and I wonder is it okay to start trek in this weather, that to be alone. Well leave aside all the feared I get down from the bus. Bid pray at the temple situated on Kunzum top (elevation is 4700mts) and started trek after clicked some snaps there.

The trek path is well marked and there was no problem in negotiating with this path. The height shown its effect and I was breathing very hard, but thanks to my gym where I practiced a lot, that I somehow able to controlled myself to breath out completely. The path initially just goes upward, up to 2-3kms, after that it is like ups & downs. This trek is of 10kms long and provided you the best scenery from top. You can even have a look the road that coming from Batal at far away downwards. The wind blowing at full pace and glaciers on opposite mountains complete the background.

It took me complete 3.4 hrs to reached ChanderTaal.

What a magnificent lake it is, situated at an altitude of some 4200mts, crystal clear blue colored water surrounded with snow clapped peaks. Hmmm I mesmerized by the beauty of this place. There were some tented accommodation available and a shop (provided tea/coffee and some very basic daily needs). I spent around 30 minutes there and then headed to Batal. This route was simple and downwards most of the time but quite boring too. The so called road is in bad shape though bulldozers were there and they tried to maintain the road to their best but still its worst for all type of vehicles. I even saw Maruti van that was standing near Batal, I wonder how cans the driver negotiated with this harsh road up to ChanderTaal.

Reached Batal at 3:00PM, the only place in Batal is the small Chandra Dhaba, along the road side just after crossing the bridge, run by an elderly couples along with their two servants. They both are from Majnu ka Tila (Delhi) and spent their winters there only.

I waited there in the hope of getting any lift till Manali so I could save my day but to my bad luck only 3-4 vehicles passed from this place and that to be going for next stops. Now the next bus would arrive at 9:00AM next morning so I got a bed in 50 bucks and rest for the day.

I wonder how cans a very small place like Batal (situated along with Chandra River at an elevation of 3900mts) get a position in all the maps, when there is only a small Dhaba at this place.

I advised all folks to go from Kunzum Top to ChanderTaal and coming back via Batal, this route provide you breathtaking views.  This is very windy place and wind flow here at its full blast.

 

Expenses: 200 (room rent + misc.) + 18 (bus fare) + 40 (Battery Cell) + 150 (misc.) = Rs408

 

 

                                                                      Losar Village

 

 

 

                                                                     Bus at Kunzum Pass

 

 

                                                                    Chandertaal Lake

 

 

                                                          Camps at Chandertaal Lake

 

 

 

 

 Day6: Batal – Rohtang – Manal – Chandigarh (110kms + 390Kms)

 

Woke up at 7:30AM, refreshed from daily activities (here toilet is the vast open ground no closed structure). Had breakfast and waited for the bus that arrived around at 9:45AM. Boarded the bus and reached Manali at 4:00PM.

Average speed of the bus at this stretch was 20-25 Km/hr. Bus past through might peaks covered with snow and glaciers. There is no road for almost complete 200Kms stretch from Kaza to Gramphoo, only a path covered with boulders all over. This in fact was a bumpy ride up to Manali.

Now came Rohtang and started the long traffic jam. I wonder how people even think of coming to this crowded place. Then I realized that it’s fine, if they don’t come to Rohtang then go to some other place and make that one crowded.     

Boarded Volvo Bus at 4:30PM and reached Chandigarh at 2:00AM. Many thanks to my friend Mayank who dropped me at my home where awaiting my wife.

Had dinner and slept.

 

6 days 1260kms all alone, that was terrific experience in this remote region.

 

Expenses: 390 (Spent at Batal) + 110 (bus fare to manali) + 530 (bus fare to Chd) + 10 (WB) + 5 (misc.) = Rs1045

 

Grand Total = Rs3820

 

 

PS: Many thanks to you for being with me in this journey.

 

 

Relaxing at last

 

 

 Truck at Batal (look the road)

           

 

 

 

                        Chandra River at Batal

 

 

 

                                                            Traffic Jam at Rohtang Pass