| Kathmandu is really two cities: a fabled capital of convivial pilgrims and carved rose-brick temples, and a frenetic sprawl of modern towers, mobbed by beggars and monkeys and smothered in diesel fumes. It simultaneously reeks of history and the encroaching wear and tear of the modern world. Bhimsen Tower (Dharahara) Sundhara Towering like a lighthouse over the old town, this white, minaret-like tower is a useful landmark near the main post office. The views from 61.88m up - 213 steps above the city - are the best you can get. There is a small Shiva shrine right at the very top. The tower was originally built in 1826 by the Rana prime minister, Bhimsen Thapa, as part of the city's first European-style palace. It was rebuilt after being severely damaged in the 1934 earthquake. The nearby Sundhara water tank lends its name to the district. Freak Street Kathmandu's most famous street from the hippy overland days of the 1960s and '70s runs south from Basantapur Square. Its real name is Jochne but since the early '70s it has been better known as Freak Street. In its prime, the street's squalor and beauty was irresistible. The smell of sweet incense, children fluttering prayer wheels, cheap hotels, ad hoc restaurants and shops selling enlightenment, were standard sights on Freak Street. Not surprisingly, it made an instant rapport with the dusty-haired 'freaks' who gave the street its name. Love-ins are a thing of the past, but Freak Street's history and plum position in the heart of old Kathmandu still make it a popular destination. Hanuman Dhoka (Old Royal Palace) Durbar Square The old royal palace is a part of Durbar Square, which remains the traditional heart of the old town and a spectacular legacy of traditional architecture. The king no longer lives here and the 1934 earthquake damaged the complex, but it remains a fascinating place to explore. The western part of the palace, overlooking Durbar Square, is home to an interesting museum that celebrates King Tribhuvan's successful putsch against the Ranas. Wander inside and you get an eerie insight into his life: lots of personal effects, extensive photos and newspaper clippings, and magnificent furniture and knick-knackery. |
