by Steve Dryden

The Baja California wine country in Valle de Guadalupe is benefitting from a new highway project that is widening 12 miles of curving and winding roads extending from the coast at Highway 1 inland towards Tecate on Highway 3. Construction should be completed before this year’s wine country festivities during the month of August. The new road extends through and just beyond the village of San Antonio de las Minas, and is expected to “open the gates” for a mini-boom in the region.

One unexpected and unintended benefit of the new road is the widening of the pass that allows cool marine winds to flow freely and cool the wine country. This excavation (wider and deeper) of canyons and ravines has allowed a more constant wind velocity and cooler temperatures in the valley. It should have a positive benefit on on grape production with cooler nights and slightly lower summer temperatures.

Although Highway 3 is the main route through the wine country, many wine lovers are unaware of the new secondary wine route that begins in the village of Francisco Zarco. In addition, most visitors don’t know that this newly paved scenic country route takes you back to the Pacific coast near the village of La Mision near the famous La Fonda Resort. This route can be accessed from Highway 1 (15 miles south of  Rosarito Beach) at La Mission by taking the free road to Ensenada. You’ll see the turnoff to Valle de Guadalupe on your left before you reach the village of El Tigre.

The most popular entrance to the secondary wine route is located near Km 77 on Highway 3, about 10 miles beyond the village of San Antonio de las Minas. Shortly after you cross the bridge over the dry riverbed of Guadalupe River, you’ll see on your right what looks like a small white Taco Bell tower made from adobe blocks. Turn right here (with extreme caution) and you’ll see the Pemex station that marks the entrance to Francisco Zarco and the new wine route. Follow this route for 10 miles and you’ll be able to explore 10 wineries, an interesting village, Baja California’s last mission site (ruins), three Russian museums and more.

The sleepy village of Francisco Zarco turns into a flee market and swap meet on Saturdays and Sundays, so please drive with caution, and you’ll save money and time by coming to a full stop at all four stop signs along this route. If you continue on through the valley, you’ll find the Pacific Ocean in about 25 miles. As you drive for about one mile past the Pemex station at the beginning of town, you’ll come to the first stop sign. Turn right here and drive for about 200 yards to the entrance to one  of the best kept secrets in Mexico’s wine country—Viñedos Malagon or Ranch Malagon has received rave reviews from wine writers and wine lovers on both sides of the border.

This 500-acre ranch is a “hidden jewel” and is blessed with old vine Grenacne grapes that are capturing the attention of serious wine drinkers in Mexico and southern California. In addition, they feature a wine tasting room and bistro inside, and on the patio of an old Russian adobe home. The bistro features real Italian pizza, lasagna, fresh ceviche, temales and salads, all handcrafted by their Italian-Peruvian Chef Ennio. Their bed and breakfast sits directly in the center of the ranch in a peaceful and tranquil setting, complete with private cantina, dining room, fireplace, full kitchen and four deluxe rooms. Savor the wines here, because they will be some of the best you’ll taste along this wine route.

As you leave the ranch and return to the first stop sign, turn right onto the paved road. Just past the second stop sign, from 100 yards to eight miles, you’ll discover nine more wineries along the way on both sides of the road. Up the road from the second stop for one half of a mile are two interesting Russian museums, one private and one government funded. Another half a mile beyond lies Vinos Fuentes Winery. This winery is the “new kid on the block” and is the third winery on the Wine Route through Francisco Zarco. It is located just past the Km. 1 marker on the left and just before the entrance to Monte Xanic winery on the right. The theme here is all about family with a children’s play area and family picnic section. Hours of operation are Thursday through Sunday from 10 a.m. until dusk. Tasting fees are $3 per person—refundable towards any wine purchase. Appointments: (646) 155-2044 or 171-7070, or vinosfuentes@hotmail.com.

Their winery facility, boutique gift shop and restaurant are located in a 8,250 square-foot building on a beautiful and natural farm setting. Miguel Fuentes currently creates small quantities of wine to include Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Sauvignon/Grenache blend, 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon and 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon/Grenache, 2007 Merlot and 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon. Vinos Fuentes wines are a Baja California “super value” at US$10 to $15 per bottle with additional case discounts. This is the perfect winery for families with kids! They have a children’s play area, BBQ area and in the near future will feature a family restaurant. Great local hospitality is ALWAYS found here!

The entrance to Monte Xanic winery is down the road on the right side about 200 yards. This winery should be visited and their wines sampled, especially if you like premium, high-quality wine. The tasting room is open Monday through Friday from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. and weekends from 10 a.m. to 3:30 p.m. Monte Xanic winery started the “revolution” in creating premium boutique wines in Mexico. They have a nice selection of white and red wines, offering samples of four whites for $4, samples of four reds for $5 or tastes of all eight wines for $8. All these wines are good!

The vineyards of Monte Xanic are cultivated with many varieties of grapes to include Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Syrah, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc. They have three labels, all three of which provide for good wine. Their Colombard/Chenin Blanc blend is a favorite and they make a fantastic Malbec and Syrah. The top of the line in their wine portfolio is their Gran Ricardo Reserve, usually a blend Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, aged in new French oak for about 24 months. This is a good spot for a picnic at a table next to the pond with vineyard views.

Chateau Camou, Adobe Guadalupe Inn/Winery, and Baron Balch’e wineries can be found along the route as you continue your journey through the region. You’ll eventually arrive in the village of El Porvenir. Continue on for another four miles until you reach the popular Bibayoff Winery and Russian Museum. It was a colony of Russian farmers who developed the first large commercial vineyards in the valley. Today, a few descendants of the original Russian (Molokan) families continue to grow grapes and make wine. David and Abel Bibayoff cultivate about 80 acres of table and wine grapes for their winery, often selling grapes to other wineries in the area. Visit their rural farm to experience warm hospitality and discover Baja California’s forgotten history from one of the region’s original grape-growing families.

Their tasting room and museum are open on Saturdays and Sundays from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. The facility is available for special events, weddings, tent or RV camping, and hiking. Their Russian Molokan museum explains the history and migration of this group who left Europe in search of religious freedom and to form an agricultural-based community. Today they make a Colombard/Chenin Blanc white wine that is excellent. Their Cabernet Sauvignon/Zinfandel is a good, aged, red blend, as is their Cabernet/Zinfandel. David makes a dry Muscat Canelli and has a nice Nebbiolo that they don’t pour, but is available for purchase. Located on the Zarco - El Tigre wine route about eight miles from the junction at the village of Francisco Zarco and Highway 3. If you are looking for a quiet country ranch with unsurpassed hospitality, visit this historical and wonderful family. Call first: (646) 179-4589 or 124-5995.

Two other wineries are located beyond Bibayoff winery. Pau Pijoun has an artisan winery with great wines located two miles past Bibayoff on the left side, up a hill on a dirt road. Viñas Pijoan is now marketing four wines, one white and three reds, all named after his family members. 2008 Silvana is a remarkable, aromatic and refreshing blend of 50% Chenin Blanc, 35% Sauvignon Blanc, 9% Viognier, and 5% Muscat, made in stainless steel tanks with no oak barrel aging. 2008 Paulinha is a nice blend of 50% Merlot, 44%, and 6% Petite Sirah, aged in an oak barrel for four months, 3,427 bottles produced. 2007 Leonora is a magical blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot, smooth and well-balanced, aged in oak barrels for 12 months, 6,192 bottles produced. 2006 Domenica is my favorite blend of Pau’s with 75% Grenache, 15% Petite Sirah and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, aged in oak barrels.

In addition to this regular production, Pau is experimenting with three new wines. “Red Convertible” is an amazing combination of Ruby Cabernet, Barbera, and Colombard. He’s also working on a long-term project involving the production of two promising ports, 2007 and 2008 with two different blends of Zinfandel, Tempranillo and Petite Sirah.

Next time you decide to explore the magical Valle de Guadalupe, try a visit to the remote wineries lined along the secondary wine route. This side of the valley is more peaceful, relaxed and less crowded. So far, it hasn’t been exploited by the charter bus tours, so it’s possible to get personal attention, and you’ll enjoy intimate conversation with the families and winemakers.