This dress works up best in a crisper cotton, Save the softer drapey ones for the full skirted dresses!

 Pin bias strip to dress front. Crease strip at a 45 degree angle and pin.Stitch from hem to pin, backstitch and break off thread.

 Pin in as shown and stitch from outer corner to inner corner, backstitching at beginning and end of seams to lock threads. Break off thread, fold in the second half of turn and pin in place. Stitch from corner to neckline, backstitching at beginning and end of seams.

 This is how our dress should look when you are done sewing the bias strip to the front.

 Turn and press strip down flat.Tweak your corners to get a nice point.Use a pin or tweezers to tug into square.

 The backside after stitching and pressing in place.

Match pleat edge with the front overlap raw edge and zig zag or whip stitch together.You may have to trim seams a bit to line up properly, depending on how much fabric has shifted during construction.

 Fold down bodice front and zig zag stitch top of pleat and raw edge of bias strip. You don't need to stitch the whole length of the seam to stabilize it.

Remember that weird little flap of fabric I had you leave in place? Pin the left side of shoulder in place and make the shoulder seam 1" from neckline to shoulder edge. NOW you can stitch along the front neckline and then trim off excess. If you trim it before this step you will have to try to match up cut curved seams. With this method, you are practically guaranteed a nice matched edge! As well as shoulder seams that are the same width.

An overall view of dress front to this point. This is when you can blind hem stitch the  fold of the bias strip to the top pleat. for a nice finished look.

Stitch Center Back seam and bottom seam of overlap. Clip at corner as shown. Zig Zag to finish edge.

Zig zag overlap on upper back opening.

 Open Back of dress and press as shown.

 Clip arm openings at 1/8 " intervals and finger press shoulder seam flat.

 Fold sleeve to find Center and pin center of sleeve to shoulder seam.Pin closely for a nice smooth seamline. There will be a slight overlap of about 1/8 " where the sleeve extends.

 Trim away the excess to match underarm at front and back. A perfect match!

 Zig Zag to edge finish sleeve. Turn up 1/2"and blind stitch, hand hem or machine stitch hem. Press.

Here is the finished side at this stage.

And the inside!

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Stitch underarm seam. I hate those little frayed threads at finished edges, so if you start 1/4 inch further in and BACKSTITCH to the hem then start stitching forward you will have a lovely finished edge with no little thread whiskers hanging off.

Stitch linings together at shoulder seams 

Edge finish lower hems of lining if desired with a zig zag stitch. 

Match shoulder seams and pin in place.

Stitch neckline and clip curves. Stitch up the overlap side at fold line and trim corners. Turn to inside and zig zag underlap edge of lining to dress back to keep that side together. Press.

Match front and back edges at arm openings. Trim away any excess to match edges. The little piece you see above is what I trimmed away from the lining.Whip stitch these edges in place at underarms front and back.

Here is the bodice lining attached and pinned at underarms. Be sure to whip stitch lining to the top of the pleat opening in front. This will stabilize it and cover the raw edge of the pleat construction.

You're almost done!

This is a view of the inside of the dress after construction. Trim the lower hem even at bottom edge and zig zag edgestitch. Fold up only ONCE 1/2 inch or to desired length and press lightly in place. Do not double hem. The pleats will not lay flat if you do!

Blind hem or whipstitch in place.

The finished dress. 

Attach snaps at back neck and half way down center back opening.

Press one final time to get sleeve crease and starch pleats in if desired.

Allow to cool in place before moving to set pleats well.

Your little Bleuette is well dressed for her Happy Season!

And you just re created a Gautier Langereau Pattern from 1926.