LapseDROID

ALPHA SOFTWARE PRESENTS


WHAT IS LAPSEDROID?

LapseDROID is a program for making true HD timelapse videos on your Android device. Designed with simplicity in mind, LapseDROID lets you easily create timelapse movies directly from an Android device, such as the G1. Images will be saved onto your memory card as JPEG files (1920*1080 which means they are true HD resolution). They can be loaded/saved as a movie using a program which accepts individual frames such as Adobe Premier, After Effects or Virtual Dub Mod (free), as is demonstrated below. Please also check out the promotional videos which were created using LapseDROID. Then its time to let your creative juices flow.

WHAT IS TIMELAPSE?

In time-lapse photography a series of images is taken at regular time intervals and then played back faster - giving the illusion that time is passing quickly. This is often demonstrated using clouds which appear to move very quickly, plants which appear to grow in seconds or fruit which appears to rot instantly. In the past time-lapse photography was done with very expensive film cameras, but with digital photography it has become much cheaper and easier. Now you can do it on your G1 (or any other Android device) with LapseDROID.

SCREENSHOTS

Here is a selection of screenshots of LapseDROID:



Please also check out the example video below.


WHAT IS POSSIBLE?

Watch these and see! These are test clips Ive made using LapseDROID, please note quality is lowered by youtube.

First video: Taipei 101 building in Taiwan.
Second Video: Sun setting over Taipei City (with synthetic panning & zooming, see below for explanation)




USING LAPSEDROID TO DO 'SYNTHETIC PANNING & ZOOMING'

If you watch the clip above carefully you will notice how the camera zooms and pans. This was not done during filming but after filming, in post production. The beauty of working in a very high resolution like HD (1920*1080) is that if your target resolution is a lot lower, like say for TV (NTSC 720*480) then your source videos are bigger then the actual screen area. This is good because you can then adjust the scale and position of the clip so it appears that the camera is zooming and panning and you are not sacrificing quality, until you zoom in really close. This can be very effective with time lapse videos. I find Adobe After effects the best tool for this job, it can also import the frames as a video.

If you really want to get industrious about it, there's no reason why you can't make a feature length production using this software. In fact thats what I did, using a Nokia 6630 and the J2ME version of LapseDROID (which has not been publicly released): Click here to check out my mobile phone made time lapse movie: lapseadazical  

If you make any videos feel free to send me the link and I can add them here.

HOW MUCH DOES IT COST?

There is a free demo of LapseDroid, the full version costs 0.50 GBP. They are both on the Android Market now.
The limitation of the demo is that it will only take 300 frames before exiting, the full version will take infinite frames.

HOW DO I COMBINE FRAMES INTO A VIDEO FILE (LIKE AVI, MPG ETC)?

Virtual Dub Mod (free)
  • Copy the files from your SD CARD to your HARD DRIVE so they can be used much quicker.
  • Download virtual dub mod from: http://virtualdubmod.sourceforge.net/
  • Unzip and run it by double clicking VirtualDubMod.exe.
  • Using menus do File -> Open Video File
  • Make sure "Automatically load linked segments" is ticked
  • Select the first photograph from your memory card in dcim/camera/ (the files will be called something like ldroid1444x1.jpg,  ldroid1444x2.jpg,  ldroid1444x3.jpg etc)
  • The number after the "x" is the order of the photographs, the rest is just a unique identifier so you don't overwrite photos you have already taken, you can order them by date to easily see the top one.
  • Click Open and the video will appear in the Virtual Dub Mod window, you can now export as a video file and / or edit etc.
  • Personally I export my initial file using HUFFYUV (download from here: http://neuron2.net/www.math.berkeley.edu/benrg/huffyuv.html) encoded uncompressed AVI, this is truely lossless but also not as huge as normal uncompressed video, its a great intermediary format to preserve quality (ie if you save as mpeg then mpeg again it gets bad quality), although I would recommend compressing your final file as an MP4 using a h.264 encoder at 1920*1080 (there is a great one called H.264/AVC available for free here http://www.h264encoder.com/ )
  • Edit, add music and test your video, then you can upload to youtube, or Vimeo (they support some form of HD so its a better idea) or just view it on your HD TV!
ADOBE PREMIER 
  • Copy the files from your SD CARD to your HARD DRIVE so they can be used much quicker.
  • Load up your copy of Adobe Premier. Go to file -> import
  • Select the first JPEG and tick "numbered stills", then click open
  • Premier will treat it just like any other video, you can now export as a video file and / or edit etc.
  • Personally I export my initial file using HUFFYUV (download from here: http://neuron2.net/www.math.berkeley.edu/benrg/huffyuv.html) encoded uncompressed AVI, this is truely lossless but also not as huge as normal uncompressed video, its a great intermediary format to preserve quality (ie if you save as mpeg then mpeg again it gets bad quality), although I would recommend compressing your final file as an MP4 using a h.264 encoder at 1920*1080 (there is a great one called H.264/AVC available for free here http://www.h264encoder.com/ )
  • Edit, add music and test your video, then you can upload to youtube, or Vimeo (they support some form of HD so its a better idea) or just view it on your HD TV!
ADOBE AFTER EFFECTS
  • Copy the files from your SD CARD to your HARD DRIVE so they can be used much quicker.
  • Load up your copy of Adobe After Effects. Go to file -> import
  • Select the first JPEG and tick "JPEG Sequence", then click open
  • After Effects will treat it just like any other video, you can now export as a video file and / or edit etc.
  • Personally I export my initial file using HUFFYUV (download from here: http://neuron2.net/www.math.berkeley.edu/benrg/huffyuv.html) encoded uncompressed AVI, this is truely lossless but also not as huge as normal uncompressed video, its a great intermediary format to preserve quality (ie if you save as mpeg then mpeg again it gets bad quality), although I would recommend compressing your final file as an MP4 using a h.264 encoder at 1920*1080 (there is a great one called H.264/AVC available for free here http://www.h264encoder.com/ )
  • Edit, add music and test your video, then you can upload to youtube, or Vimeo (they support some form of HD so its a better idea) or just view it on your HD TV!

FAQ
  • I recently downloaded your time lapse app and I don't know were the photos are being saved at. I looked on the sd and pictures but to no avail. Do you mind assisting?
  • Please check sdcard/dcim/Camera/ (the files will be called something like ldroid1444x1.jpg,  ldroid1444x2.jpg,  ldroid1444x3.jpg etc) - the number after the "x" is the order of the photographs, the rest is just a unique identifier so you don't overwrite photos you have already taken, you can order them by date to easily see the top one.


WHAT ELSE ARE YOU DEVELOPING?

I love to make useful apps, but I am making mostly games, I like zombies, and lots of em.
I am also a freelancer available for hire (for Java, J2ME, Android, Games Design Consultancy), if you are interested please check out my CV and portfolio.

REVIEWS

Feel free to comment on LapseDROID below. Thanks for your feedback.