By Anders Riel
Müller* | April 19, 2011
In early April
I had the chance to visit one of the most beautiful areas in South Korea.
Gangjeong Village on the island of Jeju is a small farming and fishing
community on the island's southern coast. Entering the village you see citrus
groves and greenhouses on all sides. On the main street, women were sitting on
the sidewalk cleaning fish and selling them to the locals. The cherry trees
lining the main street were just beginning to bloom. It was a welcome break
from congested and crowded Seoul where I live. In many ways it reminds me of
the island in Denmark where I grew up. Nothing special seems to be going on,
and that's the beauty of it. But this community of approximately 1,500 farmers
and fishermen is in the midst of a struggle against the South Korean
government's attempt to build a major naval base right in the middle of their
village. The Navy and the Korean government claim that the base will have
minimum impact on the environment and that it will create jobs and attract new
tourists to the area. The villagers will have none of it. They see that the
base will destroy their way of life, their village and the peace that Jeju
islanders strive for. But the navy continues to raze farms and fishing grounds
despite their protests.
Jeju's Geo-strategic Curse
The island of Jeju is as far away from Seoul as you can get geographically and
mentally. This autonomous island province, located south/southwest of the
Korean peninsula is in many ways distinct from mainland Korea. It's relative
geographic isolation, volcanic geological history, and warmer climate has
formed a people whose traditions, food, and culture is as distinct as the
islands natural features. Because of this, Jeju is also the biggest single
tourist destination in Korea often named "Honeymoon Island" as it is
a favored destination for newlywed Korean couples. The island economy is also
distinct. Agriculture, tourism, and fishing are the three main economic
sectors, helping the island preserve its natural beauty and traditional way of
life. Development in Jeju can be said to have followed a pace in which it was
possible to modernize without having to completely compromise the island's
environment, traditions and culture. This is not to say that Jeju is an
untouched island paradise. Luxury tourist resorts, golf courses, and tacky
tourist attractions can be found in many places, but once you venture a bit off
the beaten path you will find the Jeju that makes it a special place.
Nevertheless,
Jeju's curse is its strategic location between South Korea and Japan, and its
close proximity to China. It is only 300 miles from the Chinese mainland and
Shanghai. For centuries, Jeju has been the battleground for conflicts that had
little to do with the islanders themselves. In modern times, Jeju was annexed along
with the rest of the Korean Empire by Japan in 1910. Thousands of island men
were sent to work in mines and factories in Japan and Manchuria, while women
were forced into prostitution to service the Japanese Imperial Army. Towards
the end of World War II, the Japanese heavily fortified the island, deployed
70,000 soldiers, and forced the islanders to construct coastal defenses in
anticipation of a U.S. invasion. When Japan surrendered in 1945, Jeju joined
the rest of Korea to celebrate the end of decades of colonial rule and
exploitation. But for the people of Jeju, the horrors experienced under
Japanese rule were nothing compared to what was to come.
The Jeju Massacres
The division of the Korean Peninsula by the United States and the Soviet Union
turned Jeju into a battlefield for subsequent cold war conflicts on the
peninsula. In 1948, with U.S. and U.N. support, South Korea held elections that
established a separate state in the south, thus solidifying Korea's division.
In response, 30,000 islanders in Jeju went out to protest the elections, which
was abruptly ended when police opened fire and killed eight protesters. This
prompted riots throughout the island and the boycott of the South Korean
elections by Jeju islanders. Unfortunately, the United States overseers
annulled the Jeju election results due to their lack of participation, and
Syngman Rhee was elected without the votes from Jeju counted. But that wasn't
all. Korean right wing nationalists labeled the entire island as Communists
sympathizers. When U.S. backed leader Syngman Rhee took power following the
elections, he initiated a massive "Red" cleansing campaign targeted
the Jeju general population. Using the South Korean military and ultra rightist
paramilitary groups from theNorthwest Korean Youth Association, the Rhee
government employed a scorched earth strategy of repression resulting in the
indiscriminate raping of women and burning of villages. Thousands of people
were killed. It is estimated that 70 percent of entire villages were razed to
the ground and 30,000 people—ten percent of the island's population—were
murdered. It was a brutal precursor to what the mainland would experience
during the Korean War.
At the newly
constructed Peace Park Museum and Memorial for the massacre, one can take a few
moments to reflect on Jeju's fate as a battleground for imperial and
ideological conflicts and the meaningless loss of lives that people here have
suffered. I went there on April 4th for the commemoration of "Sasam"
as the massacre is called locally. From the thousands of people who were
gathered for the memorial ceremony, it is clear that the massacre has left deep
scars in Jeju society. For years, any mention of the massacre could lead to
imprisonment and torture. Relatives of those who had been labeled as Communists
were prevented from taking public service positions or jobs in many companies.
Many are still afraid to talk about what happened.
It was not
until 2006 that the late President Roh Moo-Hyun officially apologized for the
massacre and designated Jeju "Island of World Peace". For 50
years, successive governments in Seoul silenced the Korean people's memories of
systematic murder, rape and torture. As one exits the museum, a sign reads:
"Jeju April 3rd Incident will be remembered as a symbol of the
preciousness of peace, unity and human rights." But the government's
memory is short. Plans for a major naval base on Jeju had been in the works
since 2002 at different locations, but opposition from local residents halted
construction several times.
The Plight of Gangjeong Village
In
Gangjeong however, the navy and the South Korean government seem determined to
construct the base by any means necessary. I met an artist and activist
Sung-Hee Choi is living in Gangjeong to support the struggle of the villagers.
Gangjeong means the "Village of Water," she says, referring to the
abundance of surface fresh water in the area, a rarity on this island of porous
volcanic rock. The clean water from the Gangjeong stream is what makes the
farmland some of the most fertile on the island. Greenhouse after greenhouse
and miles of citrus orchards confirm! that farming here is a good way of life
for the residents. Much of this will soon be paved over if the Navy and central
government get their way. As we walk down to the beach, we pass bulldozed
fields with chopped down wilted citrus trees and collapsed green houses. The
Navy contractors from Samsung and Daerim are not wasting any time. It is quite
obvious that such physical destruction is part of the Navy's strategy to
silence resistance in the village. Some residents have already given up the
fight and sold their land fearing that they will be fined if they did not sell.
The government alleges that the construction is legal, that the residents have
been offered fair compensation, but many locals feel pressured and cajoled into
selling their land.
Down at the
beach one quickly recognizes that this is a uniquely beautiful coastal stretch.
The volcanic rocks, many coves and unique fresh water tidal pools provide
habitats for a wealth of animal and plant life. Underneath the water,
endangered soft corals provide habitat for an abundance of sea life. The
importance of these ecosystems have been officially recognized by UNESCO as
part of its designation of the Jeju biosphere reserve and the
provincial government is currently seeking nomination as one of the 7
Natural Wonders of the World. But again the government seems to care little
about these designations. Construction companies have already destroyed large
areas of volcanic rock formations with their bulldozers and trucks.
As we walk
along the cliffs and lava rock formations, we have a moment to stop at a few of
the fresh water tide pools filled with marine life. "I never noticed these
pools before," Sunghee says. "I have been too busy watching the navy
watching us." She points to the navy headquarters a few hundred yards away
from where they track and monitor all movement on the coast. Except for a few
women gathering shellfish, we are alone. Sunghee tells me that usually spies
working for Samsung or the Navy disguised as sport fishers watch them. I can
see that the constant monitoring is taking its toll on both activists and
villagers. Each time I saw Sunghee over the few days, she always looked exhausted.
From the perspective of villagers and activists, the navy is playing a game of
psychological warfare with those who oppose base construction. We walk back to
where we entered the beach. Artworks, posters and boards tell visitors about
the unique ecosystems of this coastal stretch and how all of it will be
destroyed by the base construction.
On the rocks we
meet well-known movie critic Professor Yang Yoon-Mo. A Jeju native, Mr. Yang
has lived in a tent on the rocks for four years to protest the base construction.
I ask for a brief interview but Mr. Yang declines. "There is no more to be
said or explained," says Yang. "Now I just want to enjoy the beauty
of this place." It is a beautiful and quiet spring day and the coast is
almost deserted besides a few tourists. The peace is disturbed only when two
minivans come down to the beach. Sunghee's and Mr. Yang's faces light up. The
minivans have transported solidarity delegations from Okinawa and Gwangju to
Gangjeong to support the villagers. Both delegations have experienced the
consequences of being victims of larger geopolitical and ideological
conflicts. Okinawans have protested U.S. military presence for
decades and Gwangju delegates are relatives of the victims of the
brutal Gwangju massacre in 1980.
Sunghee
explains that construction machines are usually there, but that they were
probably withdrawn for fear of conflict with protestors during the weekend of
the Sasam commemoration and the solidarity demonstration announced by the
Korean Confederation of Trade Unions (KCTU). Several villagers, including
the mayor, have been injured and arrestedfrom skirmishes with the police. It
seems that this day the Navy and construction companies have decided it is
wisest to withdraw given all the media attention during Sasam.
Why the Naval Base on Jeju
The Korean Navy claims that the new "eco-friendly" naval
base will create jobs and increased security for the island. But it is
difficult to imagine an eco-friendly 50-hectare naval base that will house
8,000 marines, up to 20 destroyers, several submarines and two 150,000-ton
luxury cruise liners. Considering that each destroyer has up to a 100,000
horsepower engine it is difficult to see how the base can be considered safe
for an ecologically sensitive environment, not to mention that most of the
volcanic rock formation will be paved over with cement and concrete. The second
argument is that the new base will provide an economic boost for the island.
But what kind of jobs will be created? People in Gangjeong are farmers and
fishers living off the wealth of land and sea. The jobs that usually accompany
military bases are more likely to be in service industries such as bars,
brothels and souvenir shops. The sheer size of the naval base will inevitably
lead to the complete erasure of this community, and the villagers know it.
The final
argument for the base is that it will provide vital security for the island.
But history shows otherwise. Any time a major military force has been present
on the island it has led to death, displacement, and destruction of the local
population. Jeju islanders experienced atrocities from the Japanese during the
occupation and later by their own countrymen during the Jeju massacre. The real
issue here is not about the security of Jeju, but rather the strategic
placement of a new naval base tasked with securing shipping lanes which are the
lifeline of South Korea's resource intensive corporations. This new
strategically located fleet will also take on an increasingly offensive role in
the East China and South China Sea.
In a recent
article Christine Ahn and Sukjong Hong reveal how the base will play
a strategic role in efforts by the U.S.-South Korea-Japan alliance to reign in
Chinese naval expansion. While South Korea claims that the base is not intended
for use by the United States, the likelihood that the U.S. Navy would utilize
the base in any military conflict in the region is obvious given U.S.
operational control over Korea's military. The base is also viewed by some in
the military establishment as symbolic of South Korea's emergence as a world
power in which the navy will play a central role. In an interview with the
conservative paper JoongAng Daily Admiral Jung Ok-keun of the ROK Navy
said, "The establishment of the flotilla is a sign that we are becoming
one of the powerful navies in the world, the goal we have been dreamed
of." There can hardly be any doubt that this new 953 billion Won naval
base will serve as a strategic offensive outpost for South Korea and its
allies. In this context it is difficult to understand how a base in Gangjeong
will increase security for Jeju residents. In a potential military conflict
with China, Gangjeong will be an important strategic target, just as Pearl
Harbor was for the Japanese in WWII.
Still Hope
Sunghee and I walk back to the village. She is clearly encouraged by the
arrival of the Gwangju and Okinawa delegations, and re-energized by the
peaceful and beautiful coastline. After teaching an English class to some local
students, we walk over to one of the local restaurants for dinner before
joining a solidarity demonstration organized by KCTU later that evening. We
have to give up finding food in the center of the village because most of the
restaurant owners have left for the demonstration. Sunghee tells me that the
village has been torn apart by the struggle - neighbor against neighbor, and relatives
and against relatives. Many have given up, exhausted and fearful of the Navy.
Not all, however, have thrown in the towel.
We arrive at
the community soccer field situated right across the road from the main gate to
the Navy headquarters. We greet the dog that activists, in a gesture of humor,
have placed to watch the Navy headquarters, and join the 1,300 protesters who
have come from all over Korea to support the villagers. It is already dark when
we arrive, but the hundreds of candles held by the protesters provide a
comforting atmosphere. Protesters are of all ages and walks of life: families
with children, villagers, workers and activists. Watching the crowd sing songs
for peace and reunification, it is hard to believe the government's claim that
the protest is the work of a handful of extreme activists.
Sitting in the
bus on the way back to my hotel, I reflect on the last few days in Jeju and how
if this naval base is not stopped, the Gangjeong villagers' livelihoods,
histories and traditions may soon be erased from memory, all because of
strategic geo-political ambitions that have nothing to do with them or their
way of life. On April 6th, two days after my visit to Gangjeong, the navy began
construction again. Sunghee Choi and Yoon-mo Yang were arrested and detained by
the police. Sunghee was released the following day, but Mr. Yang was not
released until April 8th. Meanwhile the villagers continue to block the
construction of the base. To stay updated, follow Sunghee Choi's blog.
This UNESCO
World Heritage designated island stands to lose much of what makes it part of
our world heritage. The transformation of Jeju into a military base also shows
that much has yet to change in South Korea before a true democracy is
established. The strategies of subtle coercion and lack of transparency by both
the Navy and the South Korean government against its own people are
discouraging to any person concerned about democracy and the rights of people.
The struggle of Gangjeong villagers for land, life, and peace should concern us
all.
*Anders Riel
Müller is a fellow with the Korea Policy Institute living in South Korea.
