1-2 March 2008
When Eurostar are having a sale to Brussels for £45 return, who can resist the temptation of chocolate, moules and frites? Join us for Sophie's Powerwalking Gastro-Fantasy Tour of Brussels... Stay with:Sophie and Jules live in the lovely Ixelles area in a beautiful, light and GIGANTIC apartment - there's enough room to swing a couple of cats and probably play a game of tennis. Sophie was the perfect hostess - picking us up from the train station, taking us on a hair-raising car ride through central Brussels on heated Audi seats (Huy: "Sophie, my ass is on fire!"), cheerfully striding miles of cobblestone streets with us and leaving speculoos and Smurf biscuits (50th anniversary this year!) under our pillows. Merci beaucoup! Eat, Shop and Visit:Given that the whole weekend revolved around eating, I've combined all the sections to follow our 2-day route through food-heaven. DAY 1First stop was croissants and pastries at the house, served with lashings of Le Pain Quotidien's luscious chocolate praline spread and Paris' Mariage Freres tea.
Pierre Marcolini. In a city full of chocolate shops, Pierre Marcolini is reknowned for being THE place to visit - he's apparently the Heston Blumenthal of the chocolate world, famous for his 'molecular' approach to chocolate. The sleek shop holds glass cabinets full of sophisticated black-boxed chocolates (Sophie also recommends the hot chocolate flakes). We celebrated our arrival in Brussels with a chocolate eclair 3-ways.
Le Beau Soleil. Why not a cafe/gallery/violin-maker's workshop? The friendly owner brought us yummy coffee, hot chocolate (a block of chocolate melted in hot milk) and fresh mint tea, then polished a violin for our photographic benefit.
AM Sweet. A delightful several-storey shop and salon de the which tempted us with the marshmallows in the window. Atelier des chefs. A city dedicated to food should of course have a good stock of cooking implements and ingredients. This shop has a teaching kitchen at the back as well.
Le Fruit Defendu. It seems that it is almost impossible to eat badly in Brussels and the Flynns are fortunate to have a stylish neighbourhood restaurant right around the corner (not 'In Defence of Fruit' but rather 'The Forbidden Fruit'). Lucky as we were all flagging after ending our day's eating marathon with a three course meal (scallops with truffles, one of the best steaks I've ever had, gooey chocolate fondant) and a bottle of wine. DAY 2
Les Tartes de Francoise. A true lost and found. Sophie's boss' husband had recommended this tiny hidden shop for the best quiches and tarts in town. A small sign on the street leads down a mysterious corridor, opening out to a small room bustling with people carrying high stacks of tart boxes. How could I resist? I carted home a salmon quiche, chocolate hazlenut tart and their speciality: fromage blanc with speculoos base. Au Vieux Bruxelles. A kitsch red-gingham tableclothed restaurant which bills itself as 'The King of Mussels with Fries and Brussels dishes'. We gorged ourselves on escargot, crevettes gris, croquettes and moules frites until, in Huy's words, we were 'borderline ill'. A lovely way to spend Sunday.
Gauffre Van outside Fine Arts Musem. It was only right that we do a taste comparison of waffles, so despite our full stomachs we managed another waffle after lunch. These ones were much better - hot, slightly doughy and properly caramelised. Magnifique. |
T: +32 2 646 49 83
La Cremerie de la Vache: Rue Jean Stas 6
1060 BRUXELLES T: +32 2.538.28.18
Pierre Marcolini Chocolatier: Rue des Minimes 1, 1000 Bruxelles T: +32 2 514 12 06 Godiva: Grand Sablon 47/48, 1000 Bruxelles (other locations) Dandoy: 31 reu de beurre, B-1000 Bruxelles T: +32 2 511 03 26 Le Beau Soleil: 25-27 rue de Rollebeek, Sablon T: +32 479 420 382 AM Sweet: rue des Chartreux 4/Kartuizersstraat 4, Brussels T: +32 2-513-51-31 Atelier des Chefs: 17 rue des Chartruex, 1000 Bruxelles (other locations) T: +32 2 511 51 17 Frederic Blondeel: Quai aux Briques 24, 1000 Brussels T: +32 (0)25 022 131 Le Fruit Defendu: 108 Rue Tenbosch, 1050 Bruxelles T: +32 2 347 42 47 Cafe Belga: Place Eugène Flagey Plein Les Tartes de Francoise: 75 Av de l'hippodrome, 1050 Bruxelles T : 02/640.88.41 Au Vieux Bruxelles: Rue St Boniface 35, 1050 Bruxelles T: +32 2 503 31 11 Musical Instruments Museum: Rue Montagne de la Cour 2, Brussels 1000, Belgium. T: 32 (02) 545-0130
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