JardinDelTango

Our tango garden

Your home in
the heart
of Buenos Aires

Our Barrio

Our Barrio

Buenos Aires proper (Capital Federal) is divided into 48 barrios (or neighbourhoods), with all distances measured from Congreso - the National Parliament and official heart of Buenos Aires (and Argentina). All our casas are within eight short blocks of Congreso.
 
Casas Rosa y Jasmin are formally in Balvanera, but because we are in the part closest to the Facultad de Medicina (Medical School), our area is often refered to as Facultad. Maggie's Casa is in Montserrat.
 
Our closest neighbours are:
  • Barrio Norte, Recoleta (with its famous cemetary - in walking distance of 8 blocks or use Colectivo 61 in Paso y Lavalle or 101 in Larrea y Lavalle), and Retiro (with its great intercity train and bus stations for access to other parts of Argentina, use Subtes B and E or Colectivo 132 in Larrea y Lavalle),
  • Abasto (including its famous shopping centre - Subte B or Colectivo 26 outside the door in Lavalle), and  Almagro to the West,
  • San Nicolas (including El Centro), Montserrat, (both walking distance or use Subte B), and Puerto Madero (4 stops on Subte B) to the East,
  • San Telmo and La Boca to the South-West (access to both 4 blocks to Colectivo 29 at Viamonte y Junin), and 
  • Congreso (8 blocks) and then Constitucion to the South.
 
  
    
 
 
 
 
 
 

Local Milongas

You don't have to walk far from our casas to find some of the best milongas in town. Both El Beso and Porteno y Bailarin in are in Riobamba, only 3 blocks away towards Obelisco.
 
Both are world famous in the tango milieu, but you wouldn't know that from passing them on the street - the red doorway of El Beso (left) is currently surrounded by dug-up pavement.
 
And the shopfront of Porteno y Bailarin looks like a tourist bar. (See photos right.)
 
Oh, but inside......... It's what dreams are made of!
 
 
Feb 9 to 16, 2009, the 3rd International Encuentro of Tango Milonguero will be held at El Beso (see their Milongueando website).
 
 
 
  
   
 
         
 
 
            

Local useful places

Nearly every block holds its own supermercado, which also sells fruit and vegetables, and has a butcher who will cut your carne for you while you wait.
 Several of the big chain  supermarkets (Coto, Disco, Jumbo, Carrefour, see discussion) are within 4 blocks of our Casas, but the queues can be horrendous, and the staff grumpy.
 
So for a small quantity of items we recommend the locals supermercados.
 
Or you can buy on-line (in Spanish), and for a small fee your items will be delivered to the casa.
 
Small things like sweets, cold drinks, cigarettes and phone cards can be bought from the kioscos that are everywhere. The kioscos on Corrientes (1 block away) stay open 'til quite late at night.
 
There are also farmacias on most blocks, many specialising in Bach Flowers and homeopathic or herbal remedies.
 
Most blocks have a lavaderos / lavanderias which will wash (and, for little extra) iron your clothes. Many are also tintorerias (dry cleaners), and some will mend or alter clothes, although not usually while you wait..
 
You'll also find plenty of peluquerias which, as well as washing, cutting and colouring your hair, offer manicures and other female mysteries. We have devoted a separate page to other ways to look after your body during your stay, so look for information about hairdressers, doctors, dentists, etc there..
 
   
 
The water reservoir (Junin/Viamonte/Cordoba)
See Don & Linda Freedman's discussion on their blog
 
 
 
  
             Facultad Ingenieria                        Abasto Shopping Centre
           Cordoba y Ayacucho                          (Courtesy Wikipedia)
         (courtesy Maria Valdes)          (See more pics at HighBuenos Aires)
 
 

Local Restaurants

You don't have to leave the casa to eat if you are feeling lazy or tired, because Buenos Aires has a great tradition of delivering 'just cooked' meals to our homes.
 
But if you want to go out, there are plenty of good basic restaurants within two blocks of our casas. We like Naude Laja and Maral (1 block away on opposite corners of Uriburu and Tucuman, pictured above), but when we want empanadas or pizzas a la piedra, we always order in from Zapi - they cook to order, so everything is crisp and fresh (2 blocks in Tucuman y Junin).
 
There are also many kosher restaurants around Casas Rosa y Jasmin. For security reasons these are rarely pictured on the web, but we will give you a pamphlet for kosher dining should you be interested, or you can check the list at Beit Jabad Recoleta (most on their list are in walking distance). See also our section on Jewish Buenos Aires.
 
If you are vegetarian, here is the Happy Cow list of all the vegetarian places in (generally carnivorous) Buenos Aires.
 
When you want to go further there's always the kilometer of wall to wall restaurants at Puerto Madero (just jump on the subte B and get a 10 peso taxi back when you are too full to walk), the great line-up outside Recoleta Cemetary (you could walk back for exercise) or you can check out the various restaurant guides - ChowhoundLonely Planet, FrommersTrip Advisor, the Freedman blog (all in English),  or the Oleo Guide by barrio (in Spanish) - very comprehensive but we don't always agree with their ratings, so try for yourself. 
  
 
 

 
 

Local places to buy food

Our casas are surrounded by verdularas, with their luscious fresh fruit and vegetables brightening the calles (ca-jays), queserias (delis) with their displays of cheeses and cold meats, panaderias or confiterias tempting you with media lunas or tortas of all descriptions, and heladerias with their mouth watering icecreams (which they will deliver to the casa). You can buy your (extremely addictive) Havanna alfajores a block away (cnr Uriburu y Corrientes), and eat them in their lovely cafe, or bring a whole box home for treats with coffee.
 
For those with special dietary needs, there is a shop selling  specialty  products for people with diabetes, gluten allergies, etc. directly in front of the entrance to Casa Jasmin. And there are several shops selling dried fruit, nuts, cereals, and so on in the same block.
 
There is a specialty coffee supplier nearby (Uriburu y Viamante) and the truly wonderful Tealosophy, supplier of heavenly teas of all descriptions, is not far away in the Alvear Palace shopping  centre.  While you are there, why not experience afternoon tea in L'Orangerie, next best thing to staying at the Palace yourself!
 
For buying food at the supermercado, see "Useful Places" further down this page. You can also buy very drinkable wine there (12 pesos and up), as well as beer, cider and some other alcoholic products.