Keep checking in - we promise to add more stuff regularly. But just now we are using all our energy for the exciting (and extensive) renovations at Casa Jasmin.
Or you could try our blog - maybe we've been more active there.
Public Transport: Where, When, How to use it ...Colectivos (City Buses) - The colectivos have routes but no timetable - you just go to the correct bus stop and wait. One (or three) will come in good time.
- The various routes (there are hundreds) are set out in the Guia. Once you have mastered how to use that, Buenos Aires is your oyster. No need for a city tour - see it all from the window of a city colectivo!
- Trip Advisor has a good explanatory guide with many photos, but its prices are out of date (made in 1995). Everything else is helpful though.
- Another helpful description is at Argentina's Travel Guide.
- As part of the current inflation, the prices just went up to a three fare system of 1.10, 1.20 and 1.50 pesos (Jan 2009).
- Just tell the driver the name of the intersection you are going to and he (I've never seen a woman driver) will programme the ticket machine with the correct fare. Eg Pasteur y Lavalle. Write it down (in advance) if you don't know how to pronounce it. Drivers are usually quite good about letting you know when to get off too, if you ask them and sit in the seats near them. Or ask your seat companion - the written direction will help here too if you don't speak Spanish.
- You MUST have coins for the colectivos, and these are like gold in this city. Every shop wants them from you, and no-one will give them to you. Be inventive! The driver can't change a note for you, so if you don't have coins you will have to use the subte or get a taxi.
- It is rumoured that the buses are going to start taking the Monedero card used in the subtes. Roll on the day, we say!.
Subtes (City Underground/Metro) - Wikipedia has a good rundown on the subtes.
- The official site is Metrovias. They have a sweet video on the front page - in Spanish. And a subte map. The schedule is here.
- Lots of good things go on in the subtes - they have some wonderful wall murals, organised schedules of musical entertainment, an annual Jazz in the Subtes festival, and they commission their own skits for the Subte TV. We have been known to dance tango on the platform while we wait - there is usually some tango music playing.
- There is also the usual contingent of pickpockets and beggars that populate subways all over the world. Be particularly careful entering and exiting the trains, as that can be a favourite time to grab a bag or rip open a zip (Gerardo got caught like that one day).
- Subtes charge a flat rate fare. As of Jan 2009, the fare is 1.10 peso per trip.
- You can pay with your Monedero card - no need to take it out of your purse as the card reader operates through fabic or leather. Just hold your purse up to the reader.
Taxis & Remises - We counted one day, and in our barrio roughly 40% of the road traffic was taxis. You can flag one day or night, and a trip to anywhere in the main city zones will cost less than 20 pesos (and sometimes less than 10 pesos). We feel quite safe with a flagged taxi, but use the normal precautions (don't get in vehicle if it or its driver don't look safe). We have not yet had a bad experience.
- However, be aware that if you go to some places (eg La Boca late at night, or somewhere at a distance from the city centre) you may have trouble flagging a taxi to get you home. Best to book a remis ahead of time.
- Be very careful of taxis outside airports, train and bus stations. If you are going to run into a taxi scammer, it is likely to be those places. See also "... and a few warnings".
- If you want to book a private remis, we can give you the business cards of reliable firms.
Trenes (Trains to the provinces) - There are three main train stations in Buenos Aires:
- Each can be reached via a Subte line.
Micros (Long distance buses) - Micros are the main form of long distance transport in South America, there being few long distance trains.
- The micros run from adequate to extremely comfortable - equivalent to first class on a plane, with seats that convert to a fully flat bed. Meals are generally included in the price.
- The main bus station is at Retiro: one of the largest in the world. Address is Avenida Ramos Mejía 1550 and Ph is (54 11) 4310 0700.
- It is possible to book a micro on-line, but if you are travelling far (and therefore for many hours/days) we suggest you go down to the bus station at look at the micros of the company you are considering. All have ticket offices at the station.
Buquebus (Ferries to Uruguay) - Buquebus is the main ferry company to Uruguay.
- They not only run the ferries to Colonia and Montevideo, but also offer package tours (with hotels included) attached to various ferry sailings.
- The main Buquebus sales Office is at Cordoba 879. Hours are Mon to Fri 9am to 7pm and Sat 9am to 2 pm.
- The Buquebus terminal is at Antartida Argentina 821, and you can also buy tickets there.
- It is possible to access the terminal by public transport from Casas Jasmin and Rosa, but it is complicated so we suggest you get a taxi.
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Tango: Women dancing with womenThese days tango is usually thought of as something men dance with women, but it wasn't always that way (and it still isn't in the Gay-friendly milongas). We found this gorgeous collection of postcards and pictures showing women dancing with women, from the 1910s onwards:
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