I'd never seen so many cycle tourists before in one place. It was like the Ortlieb Panniers Owners' Club annual get together. Every colour of pannier on display, plus canoe bags, bar bags and whatever else you can buy from your local bike shop in waterproof PVC. We took our place in amongst the masses and headed off down the Rhine. The cycle lane was immaculate and wide and the countryside very easy on the eye. We'd arrived in Germany on Day 1 of a 7 day cycle tour of the Rhine, Mosel and Eifel and were already feeling very much a part of the scenery.....
Day 1 - Cologne to north of Bonn (15 miles)
I hate flying. Ethically and practically it doesn't agree with me, so for this trip I was determined to take the train. We used Rail Europe who seem to find the best deals on EuroStar and European lines. Anyway, it cost us £120 return from London to Cologne and took 4 and a half hours.
We came out of the railway station to a very average looking Cologne, apart from the Cathedral that is - a huge gothic looking edifice that stares down at you as soon as you step out of the station. After the obligatory coffee and map search, we headed off to the Rhine, crossing a bridge with railings covered in locks(!), all with their own little inscriptions, before turning south to find what this little bit of Germany had to offer.
Lidl.... It appeared within 3 miles and we just had to stop, like we always do. Ten minutes later, the bikes are stacked with food and we're off. Within another 3 miles we're on the Rhine cycle route proper. The map we chose was the 'Allianz Freizeitkarte', covering the Rhine, Mosel and southern Eifel region. I thought about getting a map online before we went, but pleased I didn't bother, because the local Tourist Information had loads to choose from.
We did the usual lazy 15 miles of day 1, before finding a campsite and pitching up for the night. Not sure where we were, but it was pleasant enough.
Day 2 - north of Bonn to Koblenz (50 miles approx)
What struck us as we pedalled along in cyclist's heaven was just how well signposted, well kept and well respected the German cycle lanes are. The Government has recognised that cycle touring is growing in popularity, (according to the Germany Cycling Association (ADFC) 5.6 million Germans toured their own country in 2007). The quality and volume of cycle paths is increasing year on year and the number of tourists grows accordingly. At several stages on this tour, we were one of 4 forms of transport - barges, cars, trains and bikes - all meandering along the Rhine in symetry, each with own their designated routes. Some might say it's just German efficiency, I'd say it's just common sense.
Speaking of common sense, Lidl have positioned themselves very shrewdly along the Rhine cycle route. Just as we were nearing the end of day 2, we found another one on the edge of Andernach. We were joined within minutes by 3 other groups of cyclists.
Koblenz is where the Rhine and Mosel meet and a huge statue marks the spot. We camped just across the river from it, along with a host of other cyclists.
|
Day 3 - Koblenz to Nehren (45 miles approx)
The
River Mosel is one of the German wine growing regions and this becomes
apparent pretty quickly. Mile after mile the valleys of the Mosel are
lined with vineyards. Plum, pear, cherry and apple trees are all well
represented and the whole area feels fertile.
Today was the day
we hit our first headwind. It sapped the energy and before long we were
hiding in a tunnel moaning and talking about calling it a day at the
next campsite. However, the road changed direction which shifted us out
of the main onslaught of the wind, so we carried on for an extra few
miles.
The campsite at Nehren was memorable mainly for the
chunky chap who owned the jet ski. It was obviously a statement of his
masculinity because he strutted as he approached the waterside, before
jumping in and creating a mini tsunami, and then zooming off on his jet
ski and creating a mini tidal wave. Priceless entertainment.
Day 4 - Nehren to Bernkastel Kues (50 miles approx)
A
day of more vineyards, beautiful cycle lanes, peaceful riding and
Kaffee und Kuchen stop offs. Germany's a bit like that, I think. It's
the sort of place you'd recommend to anybody for a cycle tour, because
it's so pretty and considered and safe. At least this tour is.
The map of the route is marked up with all the campsites in the region.
However, there's always room for error and this occured at Muellheim,
where the campsite is now a crazy golf and activity centre. So, we
doubled back to Bernkastel Kues and spent the night just outside the
town on a pleasant site right next to the cycle route.
Day 5 - Bernkastel Kues to Dockweiler (60 miles approx)
Our
first day away from the river and slight concern over the climbs in the
Eifel region. These hills climb up to around 650 metres at their peak,
though we were going up no more than about 450. We needn't have
worried. The route from Bernkastel Kues to Wittlich is pretty much
flat, as well as being pretty. Thereafter, we were on the old railway
line from Wittlich to Daun, which climbs very gently and crosses really
nice wooded countryside, passing through tunnels up to 500 metres long.
One of these tunnels even had an art exhibition.
We were heading for the campsite at Dockweiler, which is like a small village (the campsite that is, Dockweiler is a village!). We paid 15 euros for the night (reduced) between us, making this the most expensive site on the whole trip. En route, from Daun to Dockweiler, the path goes through the forest and is gravelled, but still totally rideable.
Day 6 - Dockweiler to Schuld (65 miles approx)
Day 6 is a bit of a hotch-potch, mainly because we'd decided to go to Blankenheim which is roughly north of Dockweiler and on the way back to Cologne. However, the cycle routes are non-existent north of Blankenheim, which we didn't know. So, after pedalling up there, we had to come back and then head east towards Adenau, before veering off to Schuld. This would eventually bring us back onto the Rhine, south of Bonn. It all sounds a bit random, but in reality we had a great day's riding, full of pleasant routes (most of which we did twice) and good weather. So, no complaints.
However, if you are planning a round route of this area, it may be worth avoiding Blankenheim, unless you've got a specific reason to go there. On that subject, we did discover in Blankenheim that you now pay a deposit on your plastic bottles in Germany (25 cents) which is returned when you take the bottle back.
Day 7 - Schuld to Cologne (60 miles)
This was our last full day of cycling, so we had to be within easy pedalling distance of Cologne for our train the following morning. It was a steady run - we reached the Rhine by early afternoon and spent the rest of the day pootling along to reach a campsite about 5 km outside of the city by late evening. Pitched the tent just in time, before the heavens opened.
Janyis got eaten alive by the insects prior to the rain. Unfortunately, we couldn't photograph the insects in question, so here's a picture of a fat German snail instead.
Day 8 - Cologne
Up bright and early and packed away by 7.30am. The thunder, lightening and rain started just as we reached the outskirts of Cologne, so we took refuge under a bridge and waited for it to pass. As we were waiting, I thought how much I like Germany. So many cyclists, such a sensible traffic infrastructure. I didn't really want to leave. Later on the same day, I'd be in London heading up to Highgate on a white knuckle ride and wondering why on earth I cycle in England.
|
