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 What Is the Electric Swinger?
The Electric Swinger is an electric generator. It is a free invention to be copied and used by anyone who is willing to do something to diminish the excess use of electricity that is generated by burning fossil fuels. It may help to diminish your electricity bill also, if you successfully make one or more of this kind of generator and use them. For now, the 'Electric Swinger' device is only in the 'blueprint phase', which can be seen in the drawings beneath here. No prototype has been built yet.
You are welcome to participate in the further development of the invention and please, feel free to share your knowledge as I have done. I am living in the interior and have very scarce resources myself, so it is hardly possible for me to build the invention and demonstrate how it works. If you want to reward, support or sponsor me, I would thankfully accept your help. You can contact me by using my email address kauko.loukas@pp.inet.fi or writerkauko@gmail.com If you would like to make a donation, it can be done through PayPal using my name Kauko Loukas and the first email address.
I have not found any other invention that resembles my Electric Swinger, but I cannot do a thorough patent search; therefore I cannot guarantee that there are no patents in effect or pending, concerning this invention. I would be thankful if somebody showed me that there really is one. You cannot patent this invention either because it is published on this website. Anyway, it is your responsibility to build the device and to do business with it.
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It's time to explain the invention, which is an electric generator that generates electricity by a swinging motion. The drawings are general, without any dimensions. This fact is for two reasons: no prototype has been built yet and the invention can be built in different sizes, depending on the need, circumstances and possibilities. The shape of the device may also vary. The device can be made of recycled material at least to a certain extent..
Cylinder or Body of the Electric Swinger
In Figure 1, a wide plastic tube is depicted that constitutes the body of the Electric Swinger. A usable piece of plastic sewage pipe or of large, clean water pipe is good enough, if it is straight. Such tubing is strong and lightweight. The material does not need to be inevitably of a strong plastic, but it is hard to find an alternative for it. A reinforced strong plastic is the best but also the most expensive. In a developing country, a piece of a large bamboo trunk can be used also, if a large and smooth hole can be gouged inside of it, if the ends of the bamboo tube can be locked airtight by lids and if the tube does not develop cracks.
Right from the beginning, it has to be pointed out that every joint and hole on the heads and sides of the cylinder must be made airtight when a part is fastened. In fact, the cylinder must be watertight because the device is used on the water waves but in the long run, what is not airtight is not watertight either. At first, the length of a prototype cylinder may be about 2.5 meters or about 8 feet.
The cylinder must not be of a magnetic material because such material would annul the use of magnets which is one of the main parts in the function of the device. Any metals or other electrical leading materials (such as the carbon fiber) cannot be used either because eddy currents that would be generated in the tube material prevent the device from working properly.
The cylinder has to be closed on both heads with airtight lids. They must be made of strong plastic, fastened securely and hold the mechanical pushes of the piston (below). There are ready-made lids that are fastened on the heads of sewage or water pipes that are not used. Such lids, tightened and secured properly, can be applied for this purpose. The fastening can be secured with incorruptible metal clasps and with screws or pop-rivets. The tightness can be accomplished by pitch, pitch-grease mixture, welded plastic, two-component glue that melts the surface of the tube a little also, or some other comparable fastening substances.
In the long run, the tightness of the cylinder is an inevitable yet highly important requirement. It must not be compromised, although some care should be bestowed to future maintenance when the tube has to be opened. In a developing country, the lids can be made of thick leather, which is oiled thoroughly with cooking oil or varnished and dried.
On the inside of both of the two lids locking the cylinder, a rust-resistant spiral spring is fastened fast with incorruptible metal clasps and screws or pop-rivets. The purpose of the two springs is to smoothen out the occasional hits of the piston against the lids, but not to work as a shock absorber that would consume the energy of the shock. They only return the piston back to its contrary direction to continue its work.
The three fastening-rings that are made of bronze or stainless steel are attached almost on the ends of the cylinder, on each side with two of them opposite to each other, yet up and down at the head pointing to the shore, and one at the head pointing to the sea, on the lower side. (Look at the figures.). The rings have to be slippery so that they do not wear out the rope (Figure 6, red) which is fastened on or runs through them. The shafts of the rings are screwed. They are put through the corresponding three apertures on the cylinder and fastened with washers, seals and nuts.
The cylinder needs two ring floats that are made of water resistant, but lightweight material such as a strong foam plastic. They must be fastened close to the ends of the cylinder with strong industrial glue that is able to hold the continuous splashing of waves in the long run. In a developing country, instead of the foam plastic rings, rattan rings of several turns can be used. Pitch or resin can be used instead of the glue. The purpose of the floats is to keep the cylinder horizontal, as precisely as possible, in spite of the fact that the moving piston inside changes its balance. Namely, if one end of the cylinder sinks too much, the piston may not be able to swing to the counter direction as it should. Then the device would stop working. Another purpose of the floats is that they increase the resistance of the movements of the cylinder in the water, so that the waves can swing the cylinder more effectively, increasing the electrical power of the generator. Of course, the buoyancy of the rings has to be great enough to keep the entire generator afloat properly, because otherwise it would sink to the bottom.
Piston or the Inner Tube
In Figure 2, a smaller tube or the piston, made of a magnetizing galvanized steel plate is depicted. The piston is the throbbing heart of the Electric Swinger. The purpose of the tube is to carry 6+6 (or more) strong, permanent magnets on its sides around and then move them back and forth inside the cylinder as the waves of the sea swing the latter. The material of the tube has to be able to magnetize. A lightweight, round, galvanized steel-plate tube, with a welded or pressed seam, is most affordable and otherwise usable. Its outside surface only has to be smooth enough but not too slippery, so that the magnets can easily be fastened on it. A spiral or corrugated tube is not very good because of its grooves. The length of a prototype piston may be about one half of the length of the cylinder. The piston with its rolls and magnets (below) must have enough room inside the cylinder to be able to move easily back and forth.
The piston must move easily back and forth along with the swinging movement of the cylinder. Therefore it needs sensitive, revolving rolls or wheels, which are placed in rectangular holes that are cut on the heads of the cylinder. Their number is 6+6 as it is depicted in Figure 2. More rolls are not needed and less is too little. Figure 2 and Figure 5 a) show that the rolls are placed radially and symmetrically at the heads of the piston. The details of installing the rolls depend on what kinds of rolls are used. You have to figure out the installation yourself. The rolls of the roll skates are sensitive and endurable, so they are very usable, if you can install them in their places. Self-made rolls can be used also, if they are strong and sensitive enough. The rolls have to be that number because it is impossible to prevent the piston from turning around. The magnets have to be flat but effective. Recycled loudspeaker magnets or other comparable old magnets can be used. The so-called super or neodymium magnets are the best, but they are expensive. The magnets are installed radially as it is depicted in Figure 5 b). All magnets have to be fastened tightly on the outer surface of the steel tube, so that their polarity is the same. That means, either the N side of all magnets must point outwards and the S side inwards or vice versa. Otherwise, one magnet cancels the electrical current that its neighbouring magnet has generated. The fastening can be done by driving one or more plate screws through every magnet as well as the side of the tube, or by using strong glue or pitch. Strong magnets are rather good in keeping themselves stuck on a steel surface without any other means, but it is better to ensure that they are held in place when the piston is throbbing. The super magnets may not need more fastening than their own magnetic force, but some of them are made very slippery. They may need a small steel cradle, made of a galvanized steel plate which can be fastened on the tube.
The total magnetic flux coming out of the two or more symmetrically placed rings (figures 2 and 5b) of permanent magnets is one of four main factors that determine the electric power of the generator. (The other three factors are: the number of turns of the solenoid, the inertia of the piston and the vigorousness of the swinging movement.) If the magnets are small ones, more than 6+6 of them are needed, which are depicted here, but not inevitably, considering the super magnets. However, it is recommendable to use a lot of magnets and a strong magnetic flux, if only the piston does not become too heavy and expensive.
The piston tube does not need to be airtight or watertight, because it resides inside the cylinder that is airtight. Nevertheless, its heads have to be locked by lids that are strong enough to hold the occasional pushes against the springs on the lids of the cylinder. The lids of the piston tube can be made of a galvanized steel plate and fastened in place by galvanized steel clasps and screws or pop-rivets.
The optimum weight of the piston in relation to the electric power of the generator has a certain value, but I don't know it. It has to have an inertia high enough but not too high. I think that if a normal sized man lifts the piston with his hands to his waist level and swings it back and forth horizontally, the piston should be heavy enough to cause him to sway in some measure also. An overweight piston moves too slowly and breaks open the heads of the cylinder, while a piston that is underweight makes movements that are too weak. In both cases, the produced electric power is too small compared to the maximum power. The total weight of the tube, rolls, magnets and lids with their accessory may be usable, if the magnets are traditional ones. The super magnets are lightweight, so they may need cradles, which are made of galvanized steel and increase the weight of the piston.
Solenoid
In Figure 3, a large copper or aluminum solenoid is depicted. The figure is schematic and does not reveal the number of the wire-turns, which in fact is too small in the figure. The more turns the higher the voltage. However, there is a certain optimum value again, namely, how high a voltage would be practical. A high voltage is obviously not practical, considering private home use and it might be dangerous, as well as illegal. On the other hand, the voltage should be so high that a normal car battery could be charged by it. For a car battery of 12 Volts, a direct current (DC) voltage of 15 to 20 Volts is needed, and for 24 volts, about 30 to 35 Volts. It is hard to guess how many wire turns are needed for a prototype (such as described here) to get those voltages, but it has to be noted that a voltage is easier to lower than to raise. Maybe 40 to 50 Volts is a usable voltage.
The current that the Electric Swinger produces is not a direct current, but an alternating current (AC), although its frequency is very low, corresponding with the frequency of the waves. It has to be rectified before it can be used at all. After that, its voltage has to be regulated to a usable level. Therefore, a rectifier and an adjustable resistor have to be installed inside the tower (Figure 6 b) on the shore. When the piston moves back and forth, the magnetic flux of the magnets sweeps the wire turns of the solenoid. That movement generates an electric current in the solenoid. The current changes its direction each time the piston stops and starts to move in the opposite direction, following the movement of the waves.
I can only guess how many wire turns are needed for a solenoid of a prototype generator like the one here. I suppose that several hundreds of turns are needed, perhaps somewhere between 500 and 1000. The wire has to endure the continuous soaking in the sea water, where it constantly lies. Therefore, it has to have basic insulation already, when it is spooled around the cylinder, and then the entire solenoid has to be covered with a layer of two-component epoxy-resin or melted pitch, so that the layer touches the wire turns and the cylinder surface under them thoroughly before it dries up. What is the dimension of the copper or aluminum wire? I can only try to estimate it, but maybe 1.2 mm or about 0.05 in is enough for the prototype, so that it does not heat too much during heavy usage, but does not make the solenoid too weighty. The length of the solenoid is about equal to that of the piston.
The solenoid wire can be spooled right on the cylinder. However, the cylinder has to be installed at a rectangular rig at first. You can turn a long table upside down to get one. Two temporary circular lids that have the same diameter as the inner diameter of the cylinder, with bore holes in their center, made of chipboard or other usable material, are pushed tightly inside the heads of the cylinder. A round stick, whose diameter is smaller than the holes on the lids, is put through the holes and fastened on the rig with two clamps. Then the wire can be spooled by rolling the cylinder with one hand and directing it with another. The ends of the wire have to be fixed with fasteners that do not injure the wire and its insulation.
The solenoid has to be connected to the electric tower (Figure 6 b) on the shore with a well-insulated electric lead that includes two wires of at least the same dimension as the solenoid wire has or more. The connections of the wire onto the ends of the solenoid have to be made by soldering, and the connection points have to be well insulated with epoxy or pitch, as well as protected and secured mechanically so that they cannot move, break or wear out.
Assembly of the Electric Swinger
In Figure 4 the assembly of the generator is depicted. The figure is a schematic one and does not show exactly how the generator looks in reality, but you may guess. In the figure, it can be seen how the main parts of the Electric Swinger reside in the assembled device. The solenoid is outer-most part and the piston is innermost part. The solenoid must hold fast in its place without moving, but the piston moves sensitively back and forth. One water hole with an airtight plug can be made on the cylinder of the device to let possible water to leak or be pumped out, if it has seeped there in spite of all precautionary measures.
Installing the Electric Swinger
Figure 6 shows how the generator is installed at a sea shore. The furthest end of the device from the shore line is anchored on the bottom (a). A strong and slippery fastening-rope (red) runs from the lower-farthest fastening-ring of the cylinder to the upper end of the first spring. Then the rope runs from the lower end of the spring through the fastening-ring on the anchor. From there the rope runs through the lower-closest (to the shore) fastening-ring of the cylinder to the lower end of the second spring and from its upper end to a revolving block on the electric tower on the shore. The rope turns around the block to the upper end of the third spring and from its lower end to the upper-closest fastening-ring of the cylinder. The rope does not continue at the length of the springs. It is fastened to the lower-farthest and upper-closest rings, as well as to the ends of the springs, but it runs freely through the ring of the anchor and the lower-closest ring. The fastenings have to be secured properly by usable means to endure the wearing caused by the constant tugging of the rope. The fastening on the anchor may be completed by a small incorruptible block, through which the rope can run.
The anchor, rope and the springs keep the Electric Swinger in its intended place, but allow it to move back and forth when the waves swing it. However, the generator is prevented from turning transversely or floating away from its place. In addition, when the tide changes the sea level, the rope-spring system is able to move the generator accordingly. When the sea level rises, the stretch between the anchor and the lower-farthest ring lengthens. A certain part of the rope between the anchor and the block is drawn in around the block toward the anchor. The stretch between the block and upper-closest ring shortens, and the generator is drawn closer to the shore. This regulation system has its limit. It does not work if the difference between the low and high tide exceeds the limit of the system. However, it helps and the greater the generator is, and the farther from the shore it is placed, the better it is able to encounter the tide also.
The electric lead (blue) guides the electricity from the Electric Swinger to the electric connection tower on the shore. It has to be strong enough and doubly insulated against all weather changes. It has to include two separately insulated electric wires that have the same or greater dimension as the wire of the solenoid. The length of the lead has to be sufficient, so that the lead can sink or rise when the sea level lowers or rises. This regulation can be improved by reeling a part of an intentionally longer lead around another spring and fastening it at the ends of the spring (without cutting it).
The electric connection tower (Figure 6 b) has to protect an electrical connection box installed inside of it. The box (not in the figure) includes a rectifier, an adjustable resistor and at least one switch and one fuse. The dimensions of them have to be defined so that they correspond to the maximum voltage and current that the Electric Swinger is able to generate. The connection box needs a ground wire also, which is connected to a metal shaft that is hammered deep into the ground, or to a bare, thick copper or galvanized steel wire that is sunk into the sea, close to the shore. The tower has to be weatherproof. It has to have a door or lid for installing and maintenance work. The door or lid has to be closed properly, so that the rain water or snow cannot come in. A small work light is good inside the tower. It is better to keep the necessary batteries inside a garage, where they are protected and maintained more carefully than in the tower.
A power line transfers the generated electricity from the top of the tower to a place where it is used, e.g., to a garage. The line lead has to include three separately insulated wires, two of them live, plus one ground wire that is attached to the grounding post of the connection box. The dimension of the wires has to be equal to or be greater than that of the lead wires coming from the generator. The generator lead does not need a ground wire because the cylinder or body of the generator does not lead electricity. The piston for its part is hermetically closed inside of the cylinder needing no ground connection, and the electricity generating solenoid cannot be connected to the ground anyway.
It has to be pointed out that even the low voltages may hurt or even kill a child or a sensitive adult. Also, they may destroy a life-supporting device like a heart pacemaker. Extreme caution is always necessary with electricity. Your motto must be: Secure and insulate! 
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