At this time there are hundreds of dog training methods out
there and I do not limit myself to one method, but rather work with what is best
and most effective for that particular dog and owner.
I believe that methods that build trust between the dog and handler should be preferred over methods that are based in avoidance or fear whenever possible.
In our modern environment, our dogs are not free to exercise or socialize themselves. Many dogs currently live in the equivalent of a glorified crate, with access only to their house and yard and very few adventures or contacts with the outside world or novelty. Dogs will develop neurotic or annoying behaviors when their needs for socialization, exploration, and play are not met. Part of any training plan will involve meeting these needs so that the dog is able to react normally to situations. A fun book that explores the subject of how dogs need little training and do not have behavior problems when living "naturally" vs the mental and behavior issues we see with modern dogs is Merle's Door: Lessons from a Freethinking Dog For a more scientific explanation please see the work of the Coppingers.
In general, my teaching method starts with primarily positive reinforcement –
this can be whatever the dog wants from food to a ball to praise, to getting to
chase a rabbit. Food is usually the
easiest and quickest to use in a training session but can be misused as a
training tool easily. It is important
that the dog respond to your commands whether or not food is in sight or on
your body, so that the food doesn’t become a bribe, but works as a reward only
after they have done what was asked. If
this rule is followed your dogs will respond as mine do the hundreds of times I
ask them to obey me without ever giving food as a reward or having it on me.
I will use
punishment/corrections appropriate to the temperament of the dog but usually do
not find them necessary until the last stages of training, and dislike using
them until I have built a relationship with the dog and have an understanding
of the dog’s personality. Dogs shouldn't be afraid to try during the learning phase of training and using corrections at this stage can impede the learning process. The behavior being trained is also of importance - I am much more likely to use a correction on a dog that refuses a command to come vs. a dog that doesn't respond to a command to 'shake hands.' A correction can range from a very soft verbal ‘Oops, try again’
to electric collar stimulation. Some
dogs are much more fearful or physically insensitive than others so it is
important that the correct level of correction is used. When given appropriately the dog understands
immediately what is wanted and does not resent or fear you and can greatly speed up the learning process than if you were working with positive reinforcement only.
If you have particular views as far as training methodology is concerned (no food, no physical corrections, etc) I am 100% able and willing to work with you.
Clicker Training is an extremely fun training method for both dogs and owners who really want to develop their dog training skills and better understand how their dog's mind works. It is not the best choice for owners not really wanting to spend a lot of time working with their dog or on their own skills as a trainer. Clicker Training teaches a dog how to problem solve and to come up with ideas on their own. Clicker - savvy dogs will often 'offer behaviors' in attempts to get a treat - which can be quite adorable ... or quite annoying depending on what mood you are in. Louie, my 8 year old vizsla, at 6 months old decided he really wanted some of what I was eating for dinner, offered a sit, a down, then ran out of the room and came back pushing a basketball by his nose to bring to me. Very cute, clever boy, as I had been working on that trick with him earlier in the day. However, I understand that not everyone might think it is great to have dinner interrupted by a dog throwing a basketball at them.
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