Elizabeth Estervig

Tailoring

Teaching

Dying & Painting‎ > ‎

Dye Pastes

Create a Work Station
Put down brown paper over the surface you are going to be working on. Tape down with masking tape. Tape down the textile you will be working with with masking tape or drafting tape. 

For Steaming
Setting up a steamer can be as small as a pot and veggie strainer from Goodwill.  (DO NOT use anything that will be around food.)  You will want to have a wood strainer to keep the fabric out of the hot water.  You can rig one out of cheap chopsticks and a little patience.  On top of the wood you'll want a layer of thick wool.

If you are working on a shop steamer I learned with an industrial soup boiler, which is really fantastic, with a custom made wooden grate for the rack in the bottom.

If you do not dye large projects often or don't have the space or resources for your own dye vat/steamer, I would highly recommend checking out your local textile center.

Thickeners
Use package instructions for mixing.

Reactive Dye/Procion Paste
For cellulostic fibers: cotton, linen, etc.

 1/2-4 tsp. dye depending on color desired (except black-5 tsp. is best for black)
1/4 cup Urea water
2 Tbls-1/4 cup thickner depending on how think you like it

Add chemicals in order.  Paste the dye with a little water before adding thickener. Mix it together until smooth. 
This solution will be good for several weeks.

Add 1 teaspoon baking soda/ cup.
Mix together until smooth.  Once the baking soda is added the mixture will only be good for about 48 hours.

Apply to the textile free hand, or with a stencil. As always wear safety equiptment: wear goggles and gloves for application and a dust mask or resperator for mixing.  Allow to dry completely.  Once dry, remove the tape and lay the textile down onto muslin.  If it is a long piece make sure that  you put layers of muslin in between each fold of the fabric so none of the paste can touch other parts of the textile or the colors can transfer.  Completely envelope the textile in muslin, loosely.  

Steam for 30-45 min. at at least 212 degrees F with the lid on.  Make sure the fabric is far enough away from the boiling water that none of the water spills on the textile as that will make the dye bleed. Placing a large chunk of very thick wool on a rack just below the wrapped textile should help.

Very carefully remove the textile from the steam with long sleeves and heat protective gloves.  Be careful not to let any water droplets hit the textile from the lid, or yourself as it will likely be hot.  Allow the textile to cool and unwrap the textile from the muslin. Wash and dry as normal with detergent.

For Urea Water:
9 Tbls. Urea
1 quart hot water (110 degrees)
1 tsp metaphos or calyon water softner

Allow to completely cool before you use.



Lanaset Acid Dye Paste 
For wool and silk that needs to be water fast

Per Cup Add in order:
1/4th-3 tsp. dye depending on color desired (except black, 5 tsp. is best for black)
Add approximately 3 Tbs. of thickener of choice or until desired thickness
1 tsp. Abegal Set
2 tsp. Acetic Acid
Enough water to make 1 cup

Add chemicals in order.  Paste the dye with a little water before adding thickener. Mix it together until smooth. 
This solution will be good for several weeks.

Pre wash all textiles.

 Apply to the wool or silk free hand, or with a stencil. As always wear safety equiptment: wear goggles and gloves for application and a dust mask or resperator for mixing.  Allow to dry completely.  Once dry, remove the tape and lay the textile down onto muslin.  If it is a long piece make sure that  you put layers of muslin in between each fold of the fabric so none of the paste can touch other parts of the textile or the colors can transfer.  Completely envelope the textile in muslin, loosely.  

Steam for 30-45 min. at at least 212 degrees F with the lid on.  Make sure the fabric is far enough away from the boiling water that none of the water spills on the textile as that will make the dye bleed. Placing a large chunk of very thick wool on a rack just below the wrapped textile should help.

Very carefully remove the textile from the steam with long sleeves and heat protective gloves.  Be careful not to let any water droplets hit the textile from the lid, or yourself as it will likely be hot.  Allow the textile to cool and unwrap the textile from the muslin. Wash and dry as normal with detergent.    

For larger projects you can pre-mix chemical water
RATIO:
1stp. Abegal Set 
2 tsp. Acetic Acid
1 cup water