Peru
Feb. 2006
Peru
Lima is the capital of Peru and is a coastal city with a desert climate. To the east it is bordered by brown mountains. Mountains void of vegetation that reach into a sky without color. I would call Lima the city of iron gates and crumbling walls. By and large, it’s not a pretty city. There are some old architectural buildings that might once have had beauty, but today are not cared for. Masterpieces of literature are left without protection and dissolve more each day. Main streets have façade walls that hide a reality of empty waste land behind them. To top off all this, dust and pollution leave everything choking for breath. Driving into the rural part of the city, the unpaved streets are lined with more crumbling walls. Walls with glass to protect what little anyone has behind those walls. Crime is a major problem….mostly theft and kidnapping. I felt as if the majority of people simply didn’t care about anything-except maybe their own personal needs. The rich have lovely homes….behind walls. And the rest of society struggle to make a living. Political corruption and high taxes limit the majority to improve themselves. They pay taxes upon taxes and none of it seems to go back into the city. People stand around and seem to do as little as possible. They have a distant look in their eyes. By deed or lack thereof, everyone plays a part in the problem that stops Lima from moving forward. Most seem to have accepted the situation around them. To me….this city was depressing.
We left Lima early and flew into Cusco, a small town located at 11,000 feet. This town is nestled in a valley surrounded by mountains. But these mountains are filled with vegetation and color. And the city is bustling with pride and packed with the history of an ancient culture worthy of the Roman Empire. The Inca’s ruled this area in the 12th to 14th century. In the Sacred Valley of the Inca’s, the descendants of these proud people still live and worship much as they did long ago. They still wear the colorful garments of their culture. They still work the earth with their hands and still worship the Gods of Water, Sun and Earth. With no support from the local government, they live communally and support each other with all their daily needs. Everyone works…even the children do their share. Content with life, they live together in harmony. And high atop the Andes Mountains are the ancient ruins of Machu Picchu. A visual wonder for anyone who sees it.
Around the mid 15th century the Spanish conquistadors came and totally destroyed the Incan empire. History has it that they melted down all the treasures they found and put tons and tons of gold and silver into new Christian churches. The largest and richest of all churches in South America is here in Cusco. The Inca people were killed in masses and those not killed were forced to convert to Christianity. Religious paintings hanging in the church show the defiance of the Inca people to accept this new destiny. I chuckled at our Inca tour guide as she proudly pointed out that Incan artists included their own history within the Christian art. To this day….the Inca people remember their history and do not like the Spanish or the Christian dominance that tried to take away their very existence.
On the outskirts of Cusco are many poorly constructed mud brick shacks nestled into the hills all around the city. These Peruvians do not have the bonds and security of the Inca sect. Unfortunately there is much poverty and with it, litter and noticeable pollution. But by and large, I noticed a difference of all the people in this area from those in Lima. These people smile and laugh and sing and dance. They are involved with their surroundings and quick to do their best to make a living. I liked Cusco. It is a charming city that mixes the old and new. And the Inca people still gain strength from their history and the treasure we all now share from their once grand empire. A must to visit.