 The Problem: The Climber:
Liquid Militia 7A Joe Möhle
Location:
Llandudno. Cape Town's finest beach is home to the city's largest granite bouldering area. "Liquid Militia" is located on the rocky point on the right hand side of the beach as you look out to sea. The problem is on the 1st large boulder on the right hand side of the trail as you come up from the beach.
The Beta:
Stand start matched on the large obvious sloper. Use poor footholds to move up to a good crimp for your left hand, then rock over/mantle up to do an insecure crossover with your right rand to a poor dish/crimp. Make a delicate match to a small crimp for the left hand. After sorting out your feet, pop up to better holds up to the right and top out. (click on the pic below for a larger image of the boulder).
  The Problem:
Registered Rhymenecologist 7A
The Climber:
Julia Chen
Location:
CBD.
The CBD is a fairly spread out area. To get to this problem, drive along Tafelberg road for about 1km past the lower cableway station until you see a gravel road leading down the hill on the left hand side. Park here and walk along the gravel track down the hill and heading back towards the cableway for about 5-10mins until you see a large boulder overhanging the road at a sharp bend. At this bend, you will see another large boulder in the gulley on the uphill side. This is the Registered Rhymenecologist boulder.
The Beta:
Sit start on the undercling in the little cave, move out to a good hold on the lip and then move a bit left to a sidepull for your left hand. Then make a big move up to a gaston for the right hand, and cross over with your left hand to a poor sidepull. Sort your feet out and move rightwards to a good hold via either a bad sloper or a small sharp edge. The top out is fairly staright forward from there.
   The Problem:
scissor fight 7A The Climber:
Dale Posthumus Location:
TDA, at the Deadwood Boulder The Beta:
This classic sloper problem was opened by Marijus Smigelskis early in 2007 and was originally graded 6C+. It seems that lack of success by many warrants an upgrade to somewhere between 7A and 7B. The problem begins with a sit start with your right hand on a decent flat hold for your right hand and a flat undercut slight higher for the left hand. A powerful pull off the ground allows you to estalish the left hand as an undercling and do a big cross over to a poor 3 finger sloper directly above for the right hand. Keeping your feet low, bring your left hand up to a bad sloper next to your right hand. Then cutloose and bring your left foot up into a high heel hook in the diagonal rail high up left. Locking your heel in place allows you to pull up and lock of high on your righ arm and do a long reach to a positive crimp near the top of the boulder. Once you reach this crimp, it's easy to sort your feet out and do the much easier top out moves.
 Escape to Reason 7A+ The Climber: Location: The Beta:    The Problem:
Pet Virus 7A
The Climber:
Clinton Martinengo Location:
The Follow the River Boulder in Cecillia Forest. Park at the gate closest to Kristenbosch Gardens. Walk along the fence towards Newlands till you reach a stream, then walk up along the stream till you reach the boulder. The walk-in is about 5 mins. The Beta:
The boulder was discovered in 2003, but few actually know about it. This excellent sloper traverse starts with your left hand on a sidepull and right hand on an edge. Slap up to the slopers and traverse rightwards to a large sloper on the very right side of the boulder and top out from there. Check the topos page for the rest of the problems on the Follow the River Boulder.  Gypsy Rip 7A The Climber: Location: The Beta: Check the topos page for the rest of the problems on The Seneca Stone... |
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