• Differential and prop shaft

The differential and prop shaft are bolted together before being fitted to the car. This creates one of the most awkward objects you could think of, definitely a two man job. After a lot of huffing and puffing, we realised it just didn't want to in!!!! The problem was a large lump on the differential housing; it was sticking out to the extent that it was hitting the top box section that the petrol tank sits on. We decided to remove the offending protrusion, and attacked it with a hacksaw! Take that! After removing an inch of the alloy casting (a mounting point used on the Sierra) the diff finally slotted in to place. The frame that holds the diff in place is designed to take two different sizes, 7" and 7.5". The most common, and the one I had was the 7" diff. Spacers are needed to pack out the gap, so I turned down four suitable bosses on the lathe, this is a lot easier than messing about with a bunch of washers.

• Completing the rear suspension

Now that the differential was fitted, the rear suspension could now be finished. The two drive shaft and hub assemblies that were built up beforehand, could now be attached to the rear wishbones. The drive shafts simply push into the diff, with the longer of the two fitted to the drivers side. The spring and damper are fitted at the same time. The standard option is to use the Sierra drum brakes, but I had decided to go for the rear disc conversion. Quantum supply a plate which bolts over the hub, the brake caliper then bolts onto the plate.

• Completing the front suspension

The front uprights that were built up beforehand, could now be attached to the front wishbones. The calipers bolt onto Quantums custom made uprights. The coils and dampers are fitted temporarily, as they need to be removed again, when the nose cone is fitted. I left the track rod ends off, so I could set up the tracking at a later stage.

• Fuel tank and sender

The fuel tank is mounted above the diff on top of the rear sub frame. Strips of neoprene foam are stuck to the top of the rear sub frame and on the rear bulk head, to stop any vibration. The filler neck from the Sierra was disposed of, as I was using the aero style filler cap. The large rubber grommet from the Sierra was meant to fit into the hole in the tank, but with the tank wall being much thinner it just moved about. I would have had to somehow seal it. No, lets not mess about, my Dad made a stainless filler neck and welded it onto the tank. The rubber hose could then be slipped over and secured with a jubilee clip.



The fuel sender has to be modified as it is meant for a much deeper tank. There are two ways to do this, the first is to bend the arm in zig-zag fashion to shorten it, the second and the method I used is to cut the arm shorten it then join it together. This way it is much easier to measure what needs to come off. The arm was joined together using a 5 Amp terminal block connector, with the plastic shroud removed. Just in case the terminal block decided to come loose, I also soldered it to the arm.



A small bracket was made to mount the tank breather valve onto one of the bracing struts. This kept the valve in the correct upright position.
 


On the opposite side of the tank the fuel return line was attached, and led down to meet up with the copper pipe.



The final part of the fuel system at the rear was to mount the fuel pump and pre-filter. The pump and filter were mounted onto a bracket, which in turn was then bolted onto the rear bulkhead. The bolts were welded onto the bulkhead so that the whole unit could be removed if needed.



The finished article.