Step by Step

Cut the shape of the scroll by stacking the two pieces together. Keep the outside of the scroll in the inside, and glue it together temporarily with rubber cement and a piece of paper (so that it is easily separated later on).
Cut the shapes of the middle section of the scroll and head block.
Contour the top edge of the pegbox and taper it with clearance for the strings near the nut. Leave the area near the nut about 3/16". If the walls of the pegbox are 1/2", then thin down the ares where the pegholes and tuners will be going to 3/8" to 7/16".
Glue the center pieces to one side of the scroll piece. Trim to fit, and use sanding drum to even up all edges.
separate the two sides of the pegbox. Drill the holes for the tuners.
Glue the side of the pegbox without the center pieces to the center pieces to complete the scroll assembly
Cut out the slots to fit the sides in, using a small rasp and needlefile, test fit a piece of side wood until it slips in firmly.

Prepare peg jig or mould to the shape of dulcimer body.
Pour boiling water over the sides and push into the jig.
Wait a couple of days, and remove the sides from the jig. Using a bending iron and matching to the template, remove the springback from the sides so that they conform to the shape in the jig.

Prepare a wedge the height of your sides. Make sure it is at least 3/4" thick, to accomodate the string pins and strap buttons that may be attached to them.

Glue the sides into the scroll head slots.
Fit the tailblock to the sides, using clamping blocks and wedges to securely glue the sides to the tailblock. Make sure that the length of sides are exactly the same, otherwise your dulcimer will be lopsided

Bookmatch and glue the back together, if using 2-piece back.
Glue the side assembly to the back. Kerf linings are not needed if your sides are 1/8" and you are using modern Tite-bond glue. If you are using hide glue, or your sides are thinner than 1/8" or you plan on binding the edges later, then glue the kerf linings into the sides before glueing the sides to the back.
Trim edges.
Install center reinforcing strips and cross braces if desired.

Cut slots into your fretboard, nut and bridge slot
Shape the fretboard, whether arches underneath, cut out and shape the strum hollow. Approximate the fretboard length by comparing with your back/side assembly and taper the fretboard end.
Install the marker dots (optional)
Sand and smooth fretboard. Do any fretboard profiling at this time, e.g. scoop, if desired. Sand and smooth 180/220/320/400/600, burnish with #0000 steel wool. Add walnut oil (the kind without additives and will harden) at this time if desired.
Install the frets

Do not glue the soundboard together, this is unnecessary since the fretboard will cover the entire seam. Instead temporarily tape them together with painter's tape.
Trace the shape of the Side Assembly onto the soundboard (inside surface) with a washer to allow for inaccuracies.
Cut the shape of the soundboard out.
Fold the two sides together so that the outside is in the center area. Tape the soundhole patterns in place. If desired, glue 1/16" plywood to support the soundholes if you have an intricate pattern.
Cut out the soundholes with a scroll saw.
Open up the soundboard, and glue the fretboard to the two pieces of the sound board.
Using a 1" Forstner bit, open up a channel under the fretboard. Be sure to mark the position of the strum hollow with a piece of blue painter's tape so you know where to stop. Drill about 5/8" deep, leaving 3/8" of fretboard surface.

Clamp and glue the soundboard/fretboard combination to the side/back assembly.
If desired, leave a credit card at the junction of the pegbox and the soundboard. Or in the previous step, leave the soundboard 1/16" to 1/8" proud of the fretboard. This is to separate the scroll head from the fretboard to allow the fretboard to vibrate without impedance from the head.
Trim edges. You are now done with the body of the dulcimer.
Level and crown the frets.

Clare's Music Club