"Hey, let's take the Blue Bomber uptown to Jimmie Cone."

"Dang, looks like the door is stuck again. Maybe we should just stay here and fix it."


"Go around and lower the window. Maybe I can open it with a coat hanger."


"Alright, now that's fixed. Let's go."

"No, seriously. Why don't we really fix it?"

"OK, but we're going to need some tools."

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The Tool List:            

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Step 1: Remove the phillips head screw retaining the mirror hardware cover ...


Set the cover and screw aside.

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Step 2: Remove the two phillips head screws retaining the lower seat belt cover.


Set the cover and screws aside.

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Step 3: Insert a flat blade screwdriver into the notch on the back edge of the window switch retaining plate, then press forward to release the locking clip while lifting upward to disengage the plate from the armrest.


Then turn the switch plate over and - while gently prying the locking clips outward - unplug the electrical connector.


Tuck the wiring harness back into the armrest, and set the switch and plate aside.

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Step 4: Remove the phillips head screw inside the front of the armrest pad.

Remove the phillips head screw under the back of the armrest pad.

Then pull the armrest pad away from the door to disengage the alignment tabs. You can see the screwdriver resting on a locking tab in the next image.


Try not to break off the tabs ... they're only plastic.


Set the reflector aside.

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Step 6: Remove the large phillips head screws securing the armrest to the door. There are four screws across the top.


There is another one underneath.


The last one was covered by that open door reflector we removed in Step 5.


Carefully pull the armrest away from the door.


Set the armrest and screws aside.

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Step 7: Use a thin flat blade screwdriver to pry off the covers hiding the pull handle mounting screws.


There are two of these covers. Try not to break off the little locking tabs.


Then remove the two phillips head screws securing the pull handle to the door.


Remove the pull handle from the door and ...


set the handle, screws, and covers aside.

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Step 8: Pull the door lever out, then use a torx screwdriver to remove the bezel retaining screw.


Pull the bezel away from the door and rotate it so it slides over the door lever.


Remove the electrical connector for the power door lock. Be careful with those little plastic locking clips.


Set the bezel and mounting screw aside.

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Step 8: Use a flat blade screwdriver to pry off the upper seat belt guide cover.


Underneath, you'll find two phillips head screws. Remove them and set them aside.


Slide the guide and cover up the seat belt, and secure them out of the way with a little duct tape.

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Step 9: Insert a large flat blade screwdriver between the door panel and the door. Carefully pry the plastic retaining pins out of the door. There are a lot of these pins, and I have a special tool to pull them with ... but I can't find it.


Remove the phillips head screw in the upper corner.


Carefully pull the panel away from the door. Note how the seat belt slips through the cut in the panel.


Release the locking tabs on the remote mirror control, and tuck it through the door panel. Damn! I broke off one of the tabs; you can never be too careful with these things.


Set the door panel aside.

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Step 10: Remove the hex head bolts securing the inner seat belt guide to the door.


Then pry the plastic seat belt protector out of the upper seat belt box. Remove the upper seat belt box retaining bolt that's hiding behind the seat belt.



Pull the box off the stud and let it hang out of the way by the seat belt.

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Step 11: Remove the electrical connector from the lower seat belt mount.


Remove the single nut and two jam nuts securing the lower seat belt mount to the door.


Now you need to remove the rivets securing the seat belt mounting plate to the door. Use a hammer and cold chisel to cut the rivets out of the door. Don't forget your safety goggles while chiseling.


Remove the seat belt mounting plate from the door and set it aside. You now have a surprisingly large pile of parts laying around, and all that stands between you and the inner workings of your door is a thin sheet of plastic moisture barrier ... and the window glass. But before we go any further ... It's break time!

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Hot Dog with cheese and mustard on whole wheat.

Should I wash my hands before eating ... naa.


Now let's get back to work.

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Step 12: If you used a screwdriver to pull the door panel, some of those plastic pins will still be stuck in the door. Now is a good time to pull the errant pins from the door, and re-insert them back into the door panel. You can prevent this problem by using that special tool I mentioned earlier.


Next, temporarily attach the window switch electrical connector and raise the window. Then peel back the plastic moisture barrier and inspect the lock system carefully. In our case, the only problems were dried out lubrication and a little bit of corossion. Lubricate everything in the door lock system that moves. I used 3-in-one where I could reach, and spray oil where I couldn't.


There are lots of places you can reach with a little extra effort. Once you've oiled everything, cycle the door lock system manually a couple of dozen times; then lubricate everything again. Temporarily reattach the electrical connector to the door lock switch, and power cycle the lock system some more. Make sure everything is working smoothly. Don't forget the outside door handle where it comes through the door; and lubricate the latch that holds the door shut, and the door hinges too. Put a little powdered graphite - or a shot of WD-40 - in the key lock, and work the key lock a couple of times as well. In short, it takes so long to open up the door, that you don't want to do this again for another twenty years.

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When you are satisfied with your work, it's time to start the process of reassembly. For the most part, "reassembly is the reverse of disassembly", but there are a couple of places where the procedures require some modification.

Step 13: Smooth out the plastic moisture barrier, hold the seat belt mounting plate up to the door, then poke the 1/4-20 bolts through it.


Use the pen knife to cut a hole in the moisture barrier. Reach inside and place a lock washer and nut on the end of each bolt. Make sure these bolts are good and tight; they help to hold your seat belt in place!


Use duct tape to seal the hole and to secure the moisture barrier to the door frame.


The rest of the process should be straight forward. Hopefully, you won't have any left over parts when you are done.

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Errata:

Item 1: Praying to the goddess of auto repair? No, just looking for that screw that rolled under the car.



Thanks for stopping by!