LIfe in Bethlehem normally isn't all that exciting. There are occasional plays and movies sponsored by the International Center in Bethlehem that are worth seeing. Other than that, there is no theater in Bethlehem. When we feel like going out to eat, the list of restaurants to choose from in Bethlehem is a short one (not counting falafel and shawarma stands). Where to get a decent cappucino in Bethlehem? Yup, I know the two best places for that, too. And to prove that we've really gotten the hang of living in Bethlehem, we stare unabashedly at foreigners and tourists. What are they doing? Where are they from? Silly tourist, why would you wear shorts and a tank top in Bethlehem?

So, when the Pope comes to visit, it's a big deal. The preparations have been ongoing for about a month. Streets have been repaved, new traffic circles constructed, flowers planted, and parking/no-parking zones repainted on the curbs. On the day of the papal visit, all of the dumpsters were removed from the streets (a terrible idea, because the trash quickly started to pile up in the places where the dumpsters normally sit). Eager to catch a glimpse of the pope and all of the hulabaloo, I left home yesterday morning to go into Bethlehem with my roommate Kendra. All of the main streets into Bethlehem were closed to traffic and posted along the street every 20 yards or so were Palestinian police. Posters and banners of the Pope and Mahmoud Abbas lined Hebron Road welcoming them to Bethlehem. The taxi dropped us off at Bab Iz-kak, location of the only traffic light in Bethlehem, and we walked toward Manger Square. The souks of the Old City were surprisingly open for business as usual in spite of the road closures and increased security. We reached the first gate that guarded the entrance to Manger Square and we quickly realized we didn't have the tickets necessary to enter. We decided to walk around another way to see if we could at least catch a glimpse of Manger Square and the Pope. Following the sound of Scout Troops playing bagpipes and drums, we reached another road closure. Defeated, we decided to sit in the shade near the police, listen to the music, and people watch. After about 15 minutes, one of the Tourist Police came up to us and asked why we were still sitting there. We explained that we didn't have tickets to get in. He replied that we could walk up closer to have a look, but the police ahead wouldn't let us on to Manger Square. So we got a bit closer, this time behind the Peace Center when we were turned away by more police. We could at least hear the mass now and see the massive crowds filling Manger Square. We then weaved our way up some back staircases to another security closure point, the last one before entering Manger Square. Certain that we wouldn't be able to cross this one, we stood there looking forlorn for a few minutes until the security guard motioned toward us and said, "Etla, Etla" (Go, Go). After all that, we made it onto Manger Square. Situated in front of the Peace Center was a large stage with the Pope and other church figures leading the mass. In front of the Church of the Nativity, another large stage was set with local choirs providing most of the music for the mass. The innermost part of the Square was was covered with seating and the remaining portions of the square were packed with tour groups, locals, and Scout Troups. Maan News reported somewhere around 8,000 people were in attendance. There was a mood in Bethlehem yesterday that I've never experienced before. For Palestinian Christians, they were proud to welcome the Pope to their homeland. For Muslim shop-owners near Manger Square, they could care less about the Pope, but welcomed the tourists and the slightly increased business that comes with them. Many of the Christian schools cancelled school for the day and Christian businesses were closed so the general mood was joyful and relaxed like a holiday. For those of you who have followed the Pope's visit with news sources like the New York Times, you're aware that the Pope's visit is a tense and a political one. His comments in the past have caused rifts in relations with Jews, Muslims, and Non-Catholic Christians. While I'm sure his comments in Bethlehem upset some on all sides, he managed to say a few things that Palestinians can gather a little reassurance from. He confirmed the need for a Palestinian state, the right of return for Palestinian refugees, and called the illegal Israeli separation barrier, "a stark reminder of the stalemate of relations between Israelis and Palestinians seem to have reached," when he spoke in the Aida Refugee Camp in Bethlehem. For more on the Pope's comments, see this Maan News Article. Personally, I'm still a little peeved at the Pope for his comments in Africa discouraging the use of condoms as a means to prevent HIV, so I'll take his comments that I am happy with with a grain of salt.