The July 2009 meeting report. By John Pennefather, Saltair.
Our speaker was Peter Marsh, a yachtsman who is also a keen bird watcher. I am one for whom sea birds were Pelicans, Gulls and the rest, so I had a steep learning curve. Peter made it simpler by concentrating on the identification of the main groups, as to get down to species would have taken an excess of time. Also, some species can only be separated with detailed knowledge and a bird in the hand.
Unfortunately for readers who missed it, a highlight of an interesting talk was the National Geographic quality photos which I can’t show here. They can be seen on a disc of the presentation in the CCCA library. It is also hoped that it will go on the CCCA web site, but we don’t have approval to put it there yet. If you are interested in birds, or love beautiful pictures, try to grab a look at it.
Peter gave us a list of ‘one line’ hints to aid the identification of oceanic birds into twelve groups.
1 If it is a ‘big bastard’ it probably is an Albatross (wing span 2-3.5 metres)
2 If it has a great big ‘schnozzle’, it probably is a Giant Petrel.
3 If it is a soft grey bird that ‘flutters’, it probably is a Prion
4 If you only see the ‘bum’, it probably is a Diving Petrel, as they tend to be noticed as they fly away
5 If it is tiny and walks on the water, it probably is a Storm Petrel.
6 If it is white bird, flying high, it probably is a Tropic Bird
7 If it has a notably pointy head it probably is a Gannet or a Booby.
8 If it flies like a stealth bomber, it probably is a Frigate Bird.
9 If it is a tubby brown pirate that feeds by harassing birds of good character until they regurgitate their last meal, then it probably is a Skua or Jaeger.
10 If it is an elegant white bird with a white cap, it probably is a Tern.
11 If it looks like a Tern, but is all white, brown or grey, it probably is a Noddy.
12 If none of the above fit, it is probably another sort of Petrel or Shearwater
Peter nominated the latest edition of the Field Guide to the Birds of Australia by Pizzey and Knight as the best currently available field guide.
Other sources of information are at the web sites of ‘Birds of Australia’ and by Googling birdsaustralia or Tony Palliser. The latter site gets you to some fabulous photographs and links to booking an ocean bird watching trip.
The June 2009 meeting report. by John Pennefather, Saltair.
Our speaker was Mick York, on the restoration of the James Craig. For those who don’t know the name Mick York, he has sailed in many Hobart races; crewed in both the Gretel 1 and 11 Americas Cup challenges and has numerous other yachting claims to fame. At 80, he is still a keen Etchells sailor.
He is also an amusing speaker, but I suspect he may be not loved by the many Company Secretaries and others who had to find the funds their bosses have promised him for the restoration of the James Craig.
Rather than replay the main story from my notes, the following information from the Sydney Maritime Museum web site gives the history of the ship in a clear and concise manner.
‘The barque James Craig was built by Bartram, Haswell & Co. in Sunderland, England in 1874. Originally named Clan Macleod, her maiden voyage was to Peru. For 26 years she plied the trade routes of the world carrying general cargoes during which period she rounded Cape Horn 23 times. In 1900 she was purchased by Mr J J Craig of Auckland and was used on trans-Tasman trade routes as a general cargo carrier. In 1905 she was re-named James Craig and then a short six years later, in 1911, she was laid up because increasing competition from steam ships made sailing vessels uneconomical. She was then stripped and used as a copra hulk in New Guinea. After the First World War there was an acute shortage of cargo ships. This gave James Craig a new lease of life after being towed from New Guinea to Sydney for re-fitting.
Her return to service was brief because in 1925 she was reduced to a coal hulk at Recherche Bay, Tasmania. In 1932 she was abandoned and became beached after breaking her moorings in a storm. She remained beached until 1972 when volunteers from the Sydney Heritage Fleet re-floated her. In 1973 she was towed to Hobart where temporary repairs were carried out. She was towed to Sydney in 1981 and restoration work commenced. The James Craig's restored hull was re-launched in February 1997.
Off Sydney Heads, on a glorious summer day in February 2001, she hoisted all her 21 sails for the first time in nearly 80 years and is now fully operational’.
As the quote gives the basic facts, I will only add some of the highlights in Mick’s yarn. The total cost of the restoration was $20 million. They raised half in donations and the rest in gifts in kind and free labour. Actually, some of the labour was not free: Inmates of the ‘Corrective establishment’ at Long Bay worked on her as day release prisoners. Gifts ranged from two MTU diesels to a free vacuum cleaner.
The hull was constructed from ½ inch iron plates and is riveted. She survived so well because of the corrosion resistance of the iron. Now, much of the hull has new steel plates, held in place with 50,000 rivets.
The quality of the original work is shown by the story of her refloating. When she was abandoned at Recherche Bay, she was left at anchor. Eventually she broke away and was a danger to fishing boats in the bay, so, when she grounded, they blew a hole in her stern. Forty years later, the rescuers built a coffer dam forward of the big hole, pumped the water out and she floated off.
The restoration was done with the ship on a slave dock. This is a pontoon that is taken into a real dock and positioned on the dock floor with its hatches open. Then the James Craig was floated into position above the pontoon; and the dock drained again. With the pontoon drained and the hatches shut, the dock was flooded with the James Craig floating on the pontoon. At launch time, the sequence was reversed.
The pontoon had to be taken into Rozelle Bay to their work area, with 4 foot of clearance through the Glebe Bridge.
The restored James Craig has had two figureheads. The first lady was too well endowed in the baby feeder area, and she experienced anchor chain chafe. She has been replaced with a lady who requires a smaller cup size.
Her deck is 4 inch Beech planking. Her rig has 300 blocks, made in the museum’s workshop.
She has 2 x 6 foot props, driven through 6:1 reduction gear boxes.
Now for all of us, she is a wonderful site on the harbour, when she makes her fortnightly trips to sea. She also does occasional overnight cruises and has been to Hobart twice and Melbourne three times.
It was an interesting talk, and I think I will be following it up with a cruise on her. At $205, it is not cheap, but she costs about $100,000 per year to run, so their costs are not small.
The May meeting report. by John Pennefather, Saltair.
Our speaker was Garry Cook, who talked about the sites managed by Sydney Harbour Federation Trust. The Trust administers eight interesting sites around Sydney Harbour; with a total area of 137 Hectares and 408 buildings. Their web site states: ‘The Harbour Trust wants to create something truly special for these lands — to enhance the harbour and leave a lasting legacy for Sydney. The lands provide an amazing opportunity; they contain historic buildings and areas of pristine natural vegetation, magnificent views of the harbour and a record of our city's Aboriginal, maritime and defence heritage. The cultural heritage of the lands will be conserved, the environment protected and maximum public access provided’.
The Trust is a comparatively recent entity, starting in 1998. It now has 50 full time staff and 150 volunteers, who guide tours, assist with their special skills, weed bushland etc. Visiting the sites is free, fees are charged for their guided tours. Most tours are on Sundays at monthly intervals.
All the sites offer some features of interest and most are accessible by water. I offer a brief outline on the main sites and refer you to the trust’s web site or contact number for more information www.harbourtrust.gov.au
Cockatoo Island has been a Convict prison, when it housed a relative of Rob Ward’s, Fredrick Ward the bushranger, who was one of the few to escape. Later uses included a girl’s reformatory, a jail again, then a dockyard, which provides most of the relics. So the trust has 50 cranes and a DC Power station on their books. During the wars, 4,000 men worked there. Now it is a camping area, and site for rock concerts. Self guided and guided tours are available. We were told that yachts can use the Marina, while their crews visit, but I would check this, as it could be that all pens are taken on the day you choose to visit.
The old Mort’s Dock at Woolwich was bushland, then horse paddocks, Mort’s Dock moved there in the early 1900’s. When they closed, the Army water transport had the site for 35 years. It is now partly leased to marine firms. An easy and interesting self guided walk is open, cafes are planned.
Headland Park is the name given to part of the old Military area on Middle Head. It offers scenic walks, tours round the old gun sites, beaches and food at several outlets. Part is leased to Simon Sadubin, the shipwright who spoke to the CCCA last year, he allows armchair builders to watch from the door. Other sites include a dive shop and artists studios.
North Head has bush walks and historic Military sites; the old Army area includes an artillery museum. The old Quarantine station is now a hotel. Guided tours of the bush and the army areas are available.
Macquarie Light has been the site of a light since a wood fired beacon was first lit in 1793. The first proper lighthouse was built to a Greenway design, but poor quality sandstone was used and it had to be replaced in 1883. Tours of the light are available every two months.
Their other sites are the old HMAS Platypus, which awaits redevelopment, an area that was a Marine research station in Camp Cove and Snapper Island.
Most members found there were things to see in the sites discussed that they did not know about. So they found it a worthwhile and interesting talk.
The April Meeting Report by John Pennefather, Saltair.
At our April meeting David and Andrea Mc Kay (A&D) gave us a cruise talk with a difference. We traveled to Tonga and back aboard Diomedea, but they used the voyage mainly as a link to discuss their challenges, rather than giving a “pretty pictures” travelogue. So, it was mainly an account of what worked, or did not work for them. The voyage is covered in the Feb Mainsheet, so I will omit the route details.
David said the first big challenge is to cast off; to break the ties. Their weather Guru said everyone gets a pasting in the Tasman, and he was proved correct, most of the passage was hard on the wind. During this time they lost a jib halyard, due to the fitting at the top of the furler breaking. The challenge was met by a crewman who is a keen rock climber. He got it back with bruises to show for it.
Their pasting was 45 kts. on the nose. To avoid losing ground, D elected to try the 24 ft diameter Para anchor. They only moved one mile in 12 hours, but found it to be difficult to recover and it gave them a rough night. I think it was not counted as a success for this use.
The other significant problem during the leg, with solid water on deck, was leaks through holes in the boat, hatches, vents etc. D made the point that all holes leak, and the aim must be to keep the water outside.
The discomfort of the leg was reduced by the ship’s design, which allows them to steer and keep watch from below.
After drying out in Opua (and deciding not to sell the boat), they joined the Island Cruising Association cruise to Tonga. On this, I quote from David’s comment on the ICA web site “Whilst one could do all of this cruise independently, Andrea and I felt that the “cruise in company” method worked particularly well. At an organisational level, a great deal of time and angst was saved. Costs were reduced in many areas. Advice and support was readily available and made many things achievable for us, being relative novices to cruising in these waters. Personally I learned a great deal from John and Lyn as well as from other rally participants”.
“The camaraderie was fantastic. One night, Diomedea came into Havannah harbor after a 75nm leg to windward in 25 knot winds. Rather to our surprise, a dinghy from one of the rally boats quickly appeared at our stern and we were whisked over for a BBQ that was already in progress. The perfect coda for a hard day’s sailing. We partied until late before a good sleep. Would I go with Island Cruising Association again in the future? You bet”.
A&D illustrated the safety/risk element of cruising, with mention of a yacht they met, which later reported that they were running with heavy seas, trailing warps; since then- nothing. There was also mention of several vessels that ran aground.
The problem of chart accuracy and navigation was illustrated by a photo of their display of the radar overlay on the electronic chart. There was an obvious disagreement by about ½ N. mile! And their track went over land.
As some of the charts have not been corrected since the survey in 1835, one might admire the accuracy of the men who got that close. The error was much smaller at a nearby port, so it was not a datum setting error.
Apart from New Caledonia, none of the charted navigation lights in the islands visited were working
A&D admitted that in one remote anchorage the sensation of isolation gave them concern. After a walk, they came back to the ship, with a worry about whether she would be there. No one else knew where they had gone to, so if she had dragged, they would be on their own. They did not discuss their response if there was a “next time”, possibly to take the EPIRB and some food?
I think we were all impressed by the planning, expertise and original thinking that went into the trip. A first for me was that D attended a teaching session with A’s hair expert. On return, his work as stand-in cutter was praised by the coach
D praised metvuw and saildocs.com as sources of weather information for the area. A&D changed from Sailmail to uuplus.com for their e-mail service, it cost $30/month and they found it excellent.
D also praised the OpenOcean water maker for its simplicity and robustness. Their system makes 120 litres/ hour and is powered from the 240V AC generator.
In answer to a question on stores, A said she had a problem adjusting from a weekly shop to estimating long term needs, and some stores were over stocked and there were shortages of others. Because of the NZ customs, they left Sydney with stores for the Tasman, and then stocked up in NZ. D added that they had stowage space problems for the three essential food groups, “beer, wine and spirits”. That is the sort of M.O. I need, none of that “lower your cholesterol, mind your lipids stuff” I get now.
In the account of the voyage A&D showed a well developed teamwork and competence that gave them a successful voyage and us a good hour. One veteran member I talked to rated it as possibly the most informative talk he had heard at the CCCA.
March 09 - Presentation Peter Moffit & Lorraine Cairnes - "Pixie"
by John Pennefather, Saltair.
Our March meeting talk gave us a cruise in the waters of north-west Madagascar, with stops in Mauritius and Reunion Is. on the way there. Peter Moffitt and Lorraine Cairnes (P&L) were our hosts. For our trip, Lorraine and Peter both took the pictures and Peter did the talking. They traveled in May 2008, which was before the recent political unrest.
In both Mauritius and Reunion, P&L took to the hills to look at the botany and wildlife. In Mauritius they saw a splendid botanic garden with more palm species than I knew existed, and a pond full of 1.5 m diameter giant floating water lilies, complete with a Lotus Bird strolling on one of them.
P&L arrived in Madagascar at the capitol Antananarivo and had a land trip toward the South West of the Island before the cruise. They hired a vehicle with a driver guide, probably a wise choice as the alternative transport was local ‘bush taxis’ which are small overcrowded buses which run only when they’re full.
Space does not allow a big report of the land trip, so I will mention a few interesting points. Peter said that the locals mainly grow rice, which they harvest and thresh by hand. They eat more of it per head than any other nation. Madagascar has been inhabited by humans only for the last 2000 years.
Ethnically, the dominant tribe in the central highlands came from Indonesia about 1500 years ago, with Arab and African influences in the coastal tribes.
Most of the rural locals live in small villages; in two story houses, with the animals below and the people above. The houses have no chimneys, using the smoke to reduce insect pest numbers. They tend to regard live zebu cattle as their walking bank account, to be bought when times are good and sold in tough times. The locals were reported to be friendly and honest.
The road trip took P&L through some spectacular mountain country, with terraced paddy fields on the slopes. Then across the western plains, which are drier as they are in a rain shadow, to a town called Toliara. Then they flew to Fort Dauphin, the French built fort city on the SE corner, it is strategically well located, but not a good harbour.
After a fortnight on land, P&L joined their cruising friends, Eric and Lynne Toyer at the island of Nosy Be, which is on the north west coast, about 200km from the north end. Their craft, ‘Amarula’, was built by Eric in Maclean NSW; she is a 60 ft catamaran, and was built for charter work, with 4 x 2 berth cabins. On this cruise, there were six souls: the owners, Peter and Lorraine + two lively dogs, so there was a requirement for at least daily trips ashore. Much of the sailing was under MPS, with the boat doing an easy 10 kts.
Their cruise lasted two weeks and took them to the northern tip of the island. For most of the time they saw no other yachts, as the small charter fleet of 5 or 6 boats from Nosy Be does not go to the far north. This seems a pity as that area is a Marine Park. The cruising area is at 12-14o S, so is tropical in climate and experiences cyclones at the same time as us.
Their cruising area is in a rain shadow, so the land is pleasant grassland, rather than tropical jungle. The islands are limestone, with spectacular erosion forms, but most have at least one beach. The islands are not inhabited, but do have fisherman’s camps and a larger one had a herd of cattle.
As in most parts a Cruise Guide writer has been there before you. In this case, Rod Heikell was the author. Peter said the charts are good, but on one occasion, the chart plotter thought they had sailed across an island.
After the colonial French left in the 1970’s Madagascar had a period of Socialist rule for some 20 years which was then replaced by a democratically elected government. Although the political situation seemed stable at the time of their visit there has since been increasing unrest culminating in a military-backed sacking of the President this month.
I found it an interesting talk and thank P&L for it. I also thank Peter for proofreading this report.
I would consider cruising there if invited there by a congenial friend who had their boat in the area, but the attractions did not seem great enough to line up for a charter or resort holiday in the area.
February 2009 Meeting Report Australian Flags
Presentation by John Vaughan John Pennefather “Saltair”
At the February meeting we had a presentation on flags, with emphasis on the Australian flags and their history and evolution. The speaker John Vaughn was an interesting and amusing enthusiast. I was half expecting to be bored and not particularly interested in the talk; but, along with all present, I was amused and informed. John is a vexillographer (a person who studies flags) by interest and a flag seller by occupation, he operates Australiana Flags in Northbridge. As I was enlisted as a flag holder for his rapid fire show, with real flags, not a PowerPoint, I have no notes to work from, so I will only report a few points that were new to me and changed my understanding on the topic.
First point, I had believed that the use of the Red Ensign was restricted to Australian registered vessels. John said it was also legal for an Australian citizen to fly it on his unregistered Australian vessel.
Second point, it is not good form to fly two burgees if you are a member of two clubs, you should choose one, with choice being governed by your location relative to the clubs, and the event.
John suggested that if you voyage overseas in your yacht, your courtesy flags should be of good size and repair. One of his clients told him that his big, new flag got preferential attention in a young Pacific Nation over other yachts, which were flying a small and scruffy courtesy flag.
I was surprised to learn that the Aboriginal flag is subject to copyright, so it can only be produced under license.
If you want more information, I suggest you contact John, to see when he is speaking in your area, as he is a busy speaker. Alternatively, there are several web sites, which Google will find for you. Or your local member should supply you with a copy of “Australian flags” on request. It is a free Government booklet with about forty pages on the history of Australia’s flags and flag protocol. John’s website www.australiananflags.com.au is also a useful information site and is more directed toward the yachtsman than the official sites and publications. For example, it tells you the correct size ensign for vessel sizes, correct flag order if you are equipped to dress your ship, and how to care for your flags.
November 08 Meeting Report Restoration Timber Boats
Presentation by Simon Sadubin.
John Pennefather “Saltair”
Our speaker was Simon Sadubin from the boat shed at Chowder Bay. Simon and his team specialize in the restoration of timber boats. They will also build you a new timber boat if you have the desire (and presumably the wallet). Simon spoke with the spark of an enthusiast and people who I thought would have little interest in old boats said they had enjoyed the talk.
Simon outlined the restoration of three craft: The first was an old timber fishing boat, that he called a snapper boat. She is a small half cabin launch that was rotten places and a near wreck. We were taken through the process of restoration, starting with replacing the transom. Then they reframed her and renewed the plank fastenings. Simon prefers clenched copper nails to roves as it gives a cleaner surface to paint. She also got a new engine, more headroom in the aft part of the cabin and splines for the planks. The result was that a boat that was close to the end of her life may see out another seventy years.
The next craft was an 18’ 6’’ (5.6m) centerboard boat called Merlin; she was built by J. Hayes and Sons. The date of build is uncertain and may have been as early as 1913. She had sat in her owners shed for nearly 50 years, awaiting restoration. He was persuaded to let Simon do the job, so it would be finished in his lifetime. This craft got new garboard strakes, which allows the new frames to be fixed to the keelson more easily.
In the time awaiting restoration, her planks had dried out and she had gaps of up to 3/16’’ (5mm). A period with the hull lined with Hessian and dampened with a salt water spray closed the gaps and she was recaulked, because splines were thought to be too rigid for her hull. She was given a new deck and fitted with her old spars. New sails were cut using the old ones as pattern. In the last few shots of her, we saw her under sail. The grin on the owner’s face made me think he thought every cent was well spent.
Simon and Bill thought two boats would do us, but by popular demand, Simon continued with the third ship. This was Windward, a centerboard craft that is thought to be from an American design. She started life as a gaff cutter, but, a couple of years later, she was converted to Bermudan rig. Then she left the racing world for cruising, which may have been rather damp at times. During her rebuild, she was given new frames, centerboard case etc., and a near wreck became a swan again.
Simon and team are not died in the wool conservatives in their approach; Epoxy is used when it is needed. Decks, that were planks and canvas, may be replaced with plywood, with imitation plank lines routered in the underside to give a more traditional appearance. They will steal ideas from other craft of the same era, to get a product that is probably like the original. For example, during her later life, Windward’s skylights were abolished. The new ones are copied from Hoana, a similar aged Hayes built yacht, that has retained hers. They will improve a ship, where they can. For example, Windward’s chain plates were not strengthened when she got her new rig. She now has timbers, with camouflaged metal straps, backing them.
Tips I noted; before you consider a restoration, get a detailed survey. This may show that the task is not worth it, and you should look at a less “aged” craft. When Simon’s gang starts, they leave the old paint on for as long as possible, to help reduce timber shrinkage. When the paint is to come off, they find a hot air gun and scraper a better method than any of the modern blasting techniques. The reason; the paint is often harder than the soft timber underneath. So, as soon as you break through the paint layer, you attack the timber that you want to keep.
Modern paint systems are good for a structure that has little movement. Older, linseed oil based paints are generally better for less rigid hulls and are the only option for a bilge that has been exposed to oil leaks. Some paint before fastening in is desirable on surfaces that will not be accessible later. On new timber, “Everdure” is not frowned upon, and is often a good choice.
In summary, it was a good night for all.
Enthusiasts might note they can visit the shed, where a door is left open for “armchair” experts to observe and supervise from.
October 2008 meeting report "Sailing the big square riggers"
Bill and Elaine McLaughlin‟s talk about sailing of the big square riggers. At the October meeting, Bill and Elaine McLaughlin, owners of "Legende", a 43 foot Jeanneau DS, told us about their voyages on the sailing ships of the Star Clipper Line. They have sailed over 18,000 miles, as passengers, in these luxurious steel square rigged sailing ships; all are copies of the last of the great sailing ships of the late eighteen hundreds; all were built and are owned by a Swedish couple Michael and Ann Krafft, who frequently sail aboard the ships themselves. Elaine and Bill‟s first such voyage was in 2000, aboard Star flyer, a four masted 340 foot Barquentine, with 21 sails, carrying five square sails on the foremast and 16 fore and aft sails for the remaining rig. They carry a sailing crew of forty, a hotel crew of sixty and up to 150 passengers. The ships are real sailing ships, carrying acres of canvass, the square sails roll up into the yards, the fore and aft sails are conventionally hanked on and hauled up by the crew using power winches. The ships are capable of 17 knots under sail and 12 knots under their six cylinder diesel engine. That voyage was from Athens to Phuket, 35 days, across the Aegean and the Med, through the Suez Canal, down the Red Sea, the across the Arabian Sea and the Bay of Bengal, including 11 ports Mykonos, Rhodes, Alexandria, Port Said, Safaga, Sharm el Sheik, Salalah, Goa, Cochin, Colombo, the Andeman Islands on the way. A highlight of that trip was a stop mid ocean in the Arabian Sea; sails down, gangways down, then in for a swim in 6 kilometre deep water. At first just a few passengers ventured in, then quickly, almost all could not resist this unique experience! All survived. The second voyage in 2003 was aboard sister ship Star Clipper, once again 35 days, this time sailing from Antigua in the Caribbean, across the Atlantic, sailing north to pick up the westerlies in the higher latitudes, stopping in the Azores Islands, then visiting Majorca, Minorca, Malaga, St Tropez, Cannes, Monte Carlo, Bastia and St Laurent, Elba, Portofino and Portovenere.
These two ships were commissioned in 1990 and 1991, but are built to much the same lines, and sailed as they would have been the 1890, except of course for air conditioning, luxury cabins, piano bars, dining rooms, libraries and the added luxury of a large diesel engine! The third voyage in 2005 was aboard the flag ship, the Royal Clipper, a 450 foot fully rigged ship carrying 42 sails, carrying square sails on five masts as well as many fore and aft sails. She is a copy of the last great sailing ship of the eighteen hundreds, the "Pruessen" (that November 2008 Coastal Cruising Club of Australia Page 48
spelling may not be correct). This time Elaine and Bill, wanting to experience sailing on the largest ship of the Line, joined the ship in Barbados and sailed to Malaga in Spain, stopping only at Punt del Guarda in the Azores. Bill explained that on that voyage they picked a wonderful run of days in South Easters and the ship covered a thousand miles under full sail in five days on the way up to the Azores. He said in all their trips not once have they seen a sea they could not have encountered right outside Sydney Heads. On both Atlantic crossings they mostly had winds in the range of nothing to about 30 knots. Only on one occasion did they encounter above that, when just as they were about to sail, under full canvass, into the Mediterranean on a beautiful northerly, the wind veered to the east and blew briefly at up to fifty knots, (just long enough so the Captain had to drop all sails and motor in through the gates of the Med). Once inside the wind dropped out entirely! The fourth voyage was a return to the Star Flyer, this time joining the ship in Athens, then sailing to Venice via, Naxos, Santorini, Yithion, Corfu, Kotor, Dubrovnik, Corcula and Hvar, 11 days in all. They told us of life aboard these ships, stories about the facilities, the good food and wines, stories about lots of the great company of people from around the world, (most of whom would never sail on a conventional cruise liner)! They have discovered that the most enjoyable part of the voyages is just that; the voyages. They loved visiting the many exotic ports, but for them the real prize is a sailing aboard these copies of the great sailing ships from the past. The talk was accompanying by many photographs of live aboard as well as a selection of the ports.
September 2008 meeting report David Salter author, sailor,
The September meeting presentation. John Pennefather, “Saltair”.
Our speaker at the September Meeting was David Salter. David is the author of several books including “All Piss and Wind,” his sailing yarn that made the best seller list. He is also a regular contributor to Australian Sailing. Although he has a long racing record, he also enjoys his cruising. People who had read his book were not short changed as he gave us his thoughts on some pertinent issues and told yarns that were not in the book.
David has recently fallen into the trap of boat ownership after a long career sailing other people’s boats. He is now the owner of Mr Christian, a handsome Swanson timber double ender with a significant racing history. The associated costs have forced him back into the work force. I think he enjoyed his evening as much as his audience, so hopefully we will see him at a sail away.
David is one of those lucky people who can just stand up and be fluent, topical and amusing. So, his first story involved I. Anstee and a Southport race and a problem, where the pressure water system pumped one tank of water into the bilge.
The next story came from discussion in the general business on the Coastal radio system, on how the check in system was working. Some years ago, David was crewing on Fidalis, for a Sydney to Newcastle trip, where they arrived in the early morning. They were pressured to nominate an ETA and give lots of details when they logged on. They arrived in the early hours of the morning and when they tried to sign off, they could not reach the station as it was closed. Soon after their ETA, all the mobile phones on board started to ring, with concerned relatives who had been contacted by the station operator. Why the operator chose the relatives rather than any of the crew’s phones was not explained. David took this on to support a proper “Coastguard” style organisation, with professionals combined with well organised amateurs.
David caught the sailing bug when he was about 7, when a relative took his family out on his yacht for a “magic day” on the harbour. At one stage the owner took young David below and asked him to feel a plank that was below the water. He was asked to note that it was warm, because the yacht was going so fast that it was heating the surrounding water. The young David was convinced and “hooked”.
Several other stories contained the same hint of a modest laugh at himself. One yarn involved several other famous men who took a friend’s boat to Lord Howe and had a rough trip back. On arriving in Sydney, about 0200, they were all relaxed until they clouted one of the large RAN mooring buoys. This was an example of being trapped by relaxing one’s guard, before the anchor is down. Then there was a comedy in minimising the scratches and parking the yacht in her pen backwards, so the owner would not see the damage before “confession”.
In response to a question, David lamented the cost and unseaworthiness of the typical modern racer. He also noted that now the ambitious owner had to have at least a semi-professional crew. This may be a cash arrangement, or a provision of a works hand from the sail maker, in response to the need to keep the expensive set of sails in top condition. As a result of this pressure, the amateur with modest means is priced out of having a winning boat. He also disliked the fragile nature of the modern boats.
Even if you were at the meeting, I suggest you buy or borrow “All Piss and Wind”. I found it a good yarn and was banned from reading it in bed as my giggles kept waking the Admiral.
April 2008 - Presentation Michael & Norma Henderson "Cera"
The April meeting presentation. John Pennefather “Saltair”
Michael and Norma Henderson (M & N) gave us an account of the building of Cera, and their cruise east about to Turkey and back. For several reasons, they chose not to circumnavigate, but by my guess, they covered 450o of Longitude, so travelled further than most circumnavigations. The only criticism I have of the talk is that the time available reduced M & N to about four minutes per year of the cruise. With more time, we could have enjoyed a lot more than the quick summary that time allowed.
Cera is a Baker built, Joubert designed, Cape Barren Goose, 11.6m LOA, 10 tonnes, centre cockpit sloop. Michael fitted her out from the bulkheads fitted stage, with the hull in the water in North Harbour. Norma’s part included making the professional quality sails, and preparing large stores of bottled food. An interesting point that made several people think, was the gear that was not part of the fit out. For example, M & N chose to have a VHF transmitter, and an HF receiver, but no HF transmitter, on the basis that they made their decisions and were prepared to take the consequences, without calling for help. The only food cooling was a portable electric fridge, to use when there was a lot of motoring. Later a weather fax and an early satellite navigation system were fitted. At a minimum, it gave two fixes per day. These were added because they allowed them to make safer decisions. Michael did admit that on a couple of occasions, he would have killed for a radar set. Their workup trips, between 1976 and 1981, included trips to Lord Howe and a race to Noumea, from which M & N returned two handed.
On the big trip, which started in 1981, a summer cruise in NZ was the first destination. Then to Fiji, were they encountered Wanderer V, on her first voyage. Michael was able to help the Hiscocks solve some teething problems with the boom and Norma made sail repairs, M & N get a mention in “Two yachts, two voyages”. Cera then headed for Vancouver via stops that are well off the normal track, such as Penrhyn, Christmas and Fanning Islands. Michael considers Fanning Is. as one of the highlights.
From Vancouver, M & N headed south to avoid the winter; their timing may have been a bit late as the only bad weather mentioned was encountered between Vancouver and San Francisco. They continued south via Mexico and Costa Rica. At about that stage, they decided to continue east, rather than returning across the Pacific.
The next step was through the Panama Canal and then they headed north. Off Belize, the folding prop. lost its blades, and was replaced with a second hand one. (This was the only gear failure mentioned). Cera headed north to Chesapeake Bay, which got a good report from both of them, then south down the waterway to Florida and on to the Bahamas for the winter. A side light on that stay was a light twin aircraft ditching near them at night. It was part of the drug running process from Central America. A group of yachties got the wreck up, and some bits found new homes.
During the next summer, M & N reached London via Bermuda, Ireland and the south coast of England, the English habit of multi-boat rafts alongside wharfs, did not appeal to them. A winter was spent in London, moored in St Katherine’s dock, including time with Cera iced in, while the bank account was replenished. During the next summer, M & N headed south and into the Mediterranean, to winter in Spain. A highlight of the next summer was to reach Venice via the coast of Yugoslavia, which was praised as a cruising ground.
The next winter was spent in Greece, before cruising in Turkish waters, and leaving the Med via Malta. From Gibraltar, they headed home via Morocco, the Canaries, and the West Indies. Stops there included English Harbour, Grenada, Venezuela, Curacao and the San Blas Islands. M & N careened Cera in the Pearl Islands, before making a legally sanctioned cruise through the Galapagos Is. Gaining a visa was aided by Norma’s fluency in Spanish and by allowing the time needed to work through the red tape. From there they headed home via French Polynesia and the South Pacific. They got home in 1989.
For me, a highlight of the evening was the modesty and the original thinking revealed in the presentation. Some of us have been part of a crew of about six, that needed “All hands on deck” to recover a kite, in similar sized yachts. M & N fly a symmetrical, masthead kite, with no gadgets like snuffing tubes. They seemed surprised that anyone should think its use was unusual. In one picture, the kite was shy and a strop to the stem was used instead of the pole, a new idea to me.
Careening, rather than slipping was another unusual approach. From the stories of accidents on some third world slips, it is a sound decision, because the choice of time and bottom is yours, and language problems with the slip owner go away. But, if you don’t have a Baker quality hull, you might not get away with it.
On anchors and anchoring, although they carried a bigger anchor, Cera never dragged their 35 lb CQR, but then came the catch, Mike said, if you don’t like the anchorage, don’t anchor there, go on to a better one. Having anchored and then worried, I see the wisdom in that.
On food, Norma mentioned bottling, drying, salting, pickling and preserving in rum as some of the food preservation processes she used.
If we get old Mainsheets on line, I will enjoy reading more of the voyage than could be gained from this sample. A little more detail on the voyage is also available in “Cruising Australians” by Alan Lucas.
Nov 2007 Presentation Jim Holt - Sailing to Lake Macquarie
Posted by Val de Burca on Thursday, 22 November 2007 (AEST)
John Pennefather writes about the discussion on sailing to Lake Macquarie at the November General meeting
The November meeting.
John Pennefather “Saltair”
At the November meeting we had a surprise presentation on the trip to Lake Macquarie, as the advertised speaker could not make it. Jim Holt opened the line-up; he covered the trip up and the lake entry. On the way up, Jim suggests you remain in the range 0.5 -3 miles from shore and monitor the current. Minimum current is normally closer in and the maximum out at the 100 fathom line. If current dodging close in, Jim suggests you take care to avoid Tuggerah reef, which has 8 metres of water, but can break. Also, if lacking local knowledge, he advises against passage inshore of Moon Island. Don’t shave the Is. On the outside, as there are rocks close to shore.
If planning to go up on 27 Dec., the day HW is at 1130 DST.
As a general rule, he advises avoiding the bar if there have been several days with strong E or NE winds. Otherwise, the bar is better than most. Because of the lake volume, the run in tide does not start till about 3 hours after low water. From HW to HW+3h (when you will get slack HW at the lake) is the best time to enter. If you need to wait outside, anchorage can generally be found NW of Moon Is., in about 8 metres of water. Bar entry is not advised late in the afternoon, because of the problem of seeing marks and leads against the sun. If entering then, Jim prefers to wait till after dark as marks and leads are lit. If you want maximum water between the heads, which is about 2.1 m + tide height , you come in at HW Swansea (= Fort Dennison tide time), and then wait about 2 h, so you get HW slack at the lake end of the channel, the lake tide range is about 0.3-0.4 m. The minimum depth encountered on was about 2.1 m near the channel opening into the lake.
For entry leads, look to your chart, or Lucas. The shallows are generally obvious. The bridge normally opens on the hour from 0600 to 2100 at weekends and holidays. You should still contact the VMR Swansea, or the bridge (49713773), as they may restrict opening time if there is a traffic jam. On week days there are no 0800 or 1600 openings and it won’t open on other hours unless there has a request, with 1 hour notice. When the bridge does open, the lights control movement direction, but beware of “hoons” who ignore the lights. Also, watch out for tinnys in the channel. If you find the channel obstructed by a tinny, Jim suggests you contact the VMR, or Maritime to have them moved, as they have caused accidents. You must have no sails up when going under the bridge. West of the bridge, there is a well signposted 4 kt. limit from the Coastal Patrol to the airstrip.
A new piece of information to most of us is that NSW Maritime has put a very detailed map of the channel on their web site. You go to NSW Maritime> recreational boating> Swansea Bridge, and at the bottom of the page, you can click on very detailed maps of the estuary.
Jim also made a few points on traps in the lake; Rathmines is good first night stop. If using the jetty, note that part is a “loading zone. The water supply has been vandalized, but it has been restored. There is poor holding round Pt Wolstoncraft and Murray’s Beach. Also, beware of the Razor fish; wear shoes with good soles when walking in the water”.
Barbara Mahon then gave us some details on the New Year hospitality arrangements. They will try to meet all boats arriving on 27 and 28 Dec., Activities include a New Years Eve BBQ and a bowling lesson for those interested, as well as the Thornely Breakfast on 3 Jan, which is detailed elsewhere. The Lake CCCA members will appoint a group of local members, who will act as facilitators, to help solve any problems members encounter.
Other information, there are 2 pontoons to be located near the Toronto Baths, which will facilitate a shopping trip there. Frank Downing commented that the RMYC at Toronto was also helpful. They have a good chef, if the galley slave needs respite. There are showers, free short term mooring, overnight mooring is $30 (see the Barman). They may also be able to provide a mooring if anyone wants to leave their boat at the lake for a time.
It was an informative evening, especially if you are going this Christmas, or at any time later.
September 2007 Presentation by Vic & Dot Vidgeon
Posted by Val deBurca on Tuesday, 2 October 2007 (AEST)
The September meeting presentation.
John Pennefather “Saltair”
By my count of presentations and Mainsheet articles, the September meeting presentation gave members their fifth circumnavigation in the last three years, despite the vicarious familiarity; all crew present enjoyed the voyage. This time we took the Suez and Panama route, with Dot and Vic Vidgen onboard Neliandrah, with Jenece and Robert Perey appearing as guest crew. A new twist was that this time we learned a little about building the yacht as well.
Neliandrah is a good looking self built steel Van der Stadt vessel, 11 m LOA, and a credit to her builders. The only ship troubles mentioned were a replacement of the old engine in Malaysia with a new Yanmar engine and some electronics difficulties. Her building took about 10 years of work, complicated by moves during construction.
After workup trips to Port Stephens, Gabo Is and Lord Howe, Vic and Dot started out in 1996 and reached Darwin in time for the 1997 Ambon rally. From there, they went on through Indonesia, to Malaysia, and the Andaman Islands. They avoided Sri Lanka because of the civil war and went to Cochin in India, before heading to Oman and the Red Sea. Pirates made two appearances, on one occasion Neliandrah had an encounter with a very suspect vessel. On the other occasion a yacht nearby was stripped.
The only severe weather was encountered in the north end of the Red Sea, where the GPS said they were going backwards. From the canal, they tripped to the Pyramids and camel rides were made.
A major difference with this trip from most was that this one took ten years, with four years in the Mediterranean, making diversions off the normal route to Venice, Croatia and Rome. Compared to most voyages, Vic and Dot seem to have extracted the maximum pleasure out of the trip, rather than making it a task to complete.
As Dot and Vic have written extensively on their voyage, I refer you to their articles in the Mainsheet for more details. Feb and Nov 98 from Malaysia, June 01 from India and Oman, Aug 02 from Turkey, Nov 02 from Greece, Oct 03 from Italy, Oct 04 from Canary Is, May 05 from Panama, and Dec 06 from New Caledonia. An interesting set of articles and presentation, thank you Dot and Vic.
P.S. Since their return, Neliandrah has been replaced by a Folkboat called Houdini.
Do members want a Club library? John Pennefather “Saltair”
For some time I have thought that members might be interested in access to a collection of cruising related books. The problem that I had not been able to solve was where to house it. Now with the new name badges, we do not need the old box with the pin on name tags, and its stowage space is available.
With the Commodore’s approval, I have removed the old box and replaced it with a box containing a small collection of sailing related books. Most are cruising yarns that I enjoyed, but have culled because there is a lack of shelf space in my study. There are also a couple of cruising guides. If other members have books that they wish to donate or lend, there is space for them. I suggest we keep the collection to sailing topics, and to books we think members will enjoy.
From the deal, I have a collection of about 100 name tag holders. If any member needs them for a good cause the price is $0, if they can be used for a commercial function, I think the treasurer would accept the cost of new holders -10%, contact me if you can use them.
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