Preparing to Leave Korea

After being in Korea for almost 3 years, we're finally prepping to leave. On December 15, 2008, we'll be returning to Southern California. Overall, the experience has been a good one.

I thought I'd jot down some of the benefits I've gained from living in Jeonju Korea.

1. Our marriage is stronger.
2. Our children are completely bilingual.
3. We've met wonderful people from all over the world.
4. I've learned to be much more accepting of Korean culture while being much less critical.
5. We've met some really wonderful Korean friends.
6. I've learned to flow with the traffic here in Joenju. In other words, if I can drive here, I can drive anywhere.
   

Why Korea

In August of 2005, I was serving as Youth Pastor of a Church in SoCal. At the time my wife Sunny and I were feeling very comfortable in our lives. Yet, there was a sort of nagging feeling that God had not called us to a life of comfort.

We both felt that we needed some new challenges in our lives. It was then that we decided to move back to Korea, the country where both of us were born.

We arrived in Korea toward the end of January 2006. God has been gracious to open all the doors for us.

Since we arrived in Korea, we've found that life here is not easy--it's challenging. Even though we are ethnic Koreans, we are treated as foreigners in this country. Having the label of "a foreigner" means that we are always looked at, and treated as outsiders.

Manners and Customs in Korea

Greetings - As with all cultures, Korea has it's own customs for greeting. When meeting someone, a short bow is the most appropriate greeting. Also, when meeting someone older, one should not extend a hand to shake hands first. One should always wait for the older person to extend his hand first.

Some common greeting expressions:

1.Casual: An nyung. (안녕: only use with children. It is our American equivalent to "Hi,"  or What's up.")

2. Polite: An nyung ha sae yo? (안녕하세요: This is appropriate for all ages. This expression is used as a "hello" greeting.)

3. Formal: An nyung ha shimni kka? (안녕하십니까: This is to be used in any formal address to one's elders. The meaning is the same as above, but is to be used more formally.)

Manners - Table manners are quite different her in the ROK than in America. When eating with students, they will wait for the teacher to take the first bite before eating or drinking anything on the table.

Water or drinks in restaurants - water or drinks are usually self-serve. There is a water dispenser and a UV cup rack somewhere in the restaurant. Go easy on the water during your first couple of months in Korea until your body can adjust to it.

When eating out or eating with with a group family-style (sharing food from a common plate), it is considered good manners to leave a little food on the plate. If you finish the plate, unless you are invited to do so, it can be considered rude. However, if you are served your own plate of food, you should finish the meal so as not to offend your host.

Eating new (challenging) food - Most people in this culture are very gracious about food. They understand that you may not be accustomed to eating certain types of food, especially if it is too spicy. When asked to go out to eat, simply speak with your host ahead of time to let them know what types of foods you do or don't prefer. However, if you have said nothing before going out. Don't tell them after the fact that you hated the food, and that it made you sick.  Your host will feel very ashamed. 

Vegetarians - you are truly blessed because Koreans eat any and every kind of vegetable and fruit. There are a myriad of vegetable dishes. However, if you have a non-meat preference, make arrangements with your host ahead of time. There are several vegetarian buffets and restaurants in and around Jeonju for you to choose. Many Koreans assume that Americans like meat so they will go out of their way to provide lots of meat in order to be good hosts.

Knocking - Experience has taught me to lock my doors when I am at home. Here in Jeonju (and this may just be a regional thing) many people open the door to announce their arrival. They do not knock or ring the doorbell. I have found that Christians are better about knocking, but everyone from the neighbor's kid, the gas company, Jehovah's Witnesses, to strangers checking to see if they found the right house of a friend, has opened my door without knocking. Many church people usually call ahead (about two minutes before) to let me know they're coming, and then usually walk in. That's fine, but total strangers opening my door is not cool!

Shopping Etiquette

When you go shopping in Korea, items are price-marked as in the States. Many people make the mistake of thinking they can haggle like in China or in other countries. However, that is usually not the case.

Here are some mistakes to avoid:

1. While it is OK to ASK a salesperson for a discount or a free gift to go along with your purchase, don't insist on it.

2. Just because prices are higher than you want to pay, don't assume people are trying to rip you off. As in the USA, different stores have different prices, and it's the wise shopper who does the comparative shopping before purchasing. If you don't like the price, simply ask for a reasonable discount or go elsewhere.

3.  Don't buy something at the first store you see it. It is best to ask a native friend where is the best place to buy this or that, or have someone go with you. You will most likely save more money this way.

Places I have been in the ROK.

There is much to see and do here in Korea. Unfortunately, I haven't had too many opportunities to see the country. Jeonju is in the Southwest of Korea above the rabbit's foot. I have been to many more places than I have listed, but I have forgotten their place names. I'm thankful for our native friends who drive us around and introduce us to the variety of foods and places here in Jeonbuk Province. (Clicking the hyperlinks below will redirect you to my Picasa photo albums.)

1. Sunchang Gochu Jang Village (순창 고추장 마을) - On a Saturday, a friend from Cali was visiting a so a Korean friend decided he would drive us around to show us the local scenery. We drove on small roads beside the mountain. The drive was beautiful. There was much to see in the way of landscape, rivers, and mountains, small towns and villages. We went to Sunchang which is well known for gochu jang (Korean red pepper paste).

This village is pretty touristy and the natives were very friendly. Many shops in the village sell containers of gochujang. Each shop owner says theirs is unique or is the best because it's "mom's recipe," or "grandma's recipe." I was able to sample several shops, and I have to say, they are all very good.

2. Jungeup (정읍) - Jungeup is a small and quaint town. If you enjoy walking like I do, you can stroll the length of the river and see some of the local culture. Many of the old people in town like to play Gateball (Croquette). Also, in the spring, there are flea markets along the river that sell everything. There are usually shops in tents, food stalls, live music, and even dancing.

Jungeup is most famous for Naejang San (Mt. Naejang).  Seeing the colors of the fall foliage is a special treat.

3. Kunsan (군산) - Not one of my favorite places, but there are things to do and places to see. Check on Eirene's page to see a post on the Aviary park, and the reservoir. There are many more things to see, but I'm not familiar with the place names. Shopping is expensive here. In some places, 30% more than Jeonju.

I've been to the traditional market here and also to the downtown area which has a couple of nice coffee shops, a few bakeries, and a small cinema.

Chunjangdae is a beach located about an hour north of Kunsan, but I found it to be dirty, smelly, muddy, and the water was lukewarm. There are many floating carcasses of fish and sea animals, and occasionally, even birds.

4. Yeosu (여수) -  A very nice coastal city. This is a quiet little city located along the coast. There are some nice beaches--some rocky, some sandy, some muddy--that are really family friendly. Most of the restaurants seem to be geared toward seafood (Sashimi or spicy fish soup). Therefore, if these don't please your appetite, you should think about packing your own food. I'm sure there are restaurants that don't serve fish but you'll have to look hard.

Odongdo (오동도) - is/was a little island off the coast of Yeosu, now turned into a park. There are some really nice beaches there, and cave tours, an observatory, etc. It is connected to Yeosu by a bridge, and one needs to pay a fare to go on the island.

Dolsan (돌산, trans: Stone Mountain) - I was told that this is probably Korea's third largest island--was an island. Dolsan is now connected to Yeosu by a large A-shaped bridge. We spent the day with a few families eating sashimi for lunch and playing on the beach. The kids had a blast playing on the beach and it was a relaxing day for the adults. 

The two-hour drive from Jeonju to Yeosu was a bit difficult for the little ones--they got car sick--so I'd recommend taking the train if you have kids.

Buan (부안) - A small coastal city. We didn't spend any time in the city, but took the ferry to Wido (위도), a very nice island off the coast. Wido has perhaps some of the best beaches I've seen in Korea thus far, and the natives seem much friendlier. If you want to spend a relaxing afternoon, come off-season when the beaches aren't crowded. There are only one or two restaurants on the island, so think about packing your own food.

Discrimination In Korea

As a foreign Korean, it is very clear that Koreans treat all foreigners as a lesser class of people. Thus most Chinese and Vietnamese can only find jobs as underpaid factory workers who cannot receive government health care.

This discrimination also extends to Korean-Americans like Sunny and me. Even though English is my native language, my only language, I receive half the pay that a caucasian-American would receive. At several hagwons I have been told point-blank that they cannot pay me the same because parents want their children to learn English from a "white person." I have heard that this kind of discrimination is illegal, but who, or what body of government agency can, or is willing to enforce the the existing laws.

Indeed, when people have asked me where I came from, and I reply by saying, "I am American." They cannot seem to understand that not everyone in America is blond-haired, blue-eyed, and white-complexioned.

The most difficult thing about living in Korea is that people still seem to have a very narrow mindset.