A new solenoid setup using 24vDC SMC solenoids with a slightly bigger orifice (2mm) through the valve. This shows the timing lag between two valves that needs to be adjusted. ========================================================= I thought I would post this one to illustrate the problems of trying to get multiple droplet collisions in one image. Above the water are two identical computer controlled solenoid valves which deliver the droplets. The system is programmed to open both valves simultaneously for 9.5 milliseconds to produce the 1st droplets then wait 52 milliseconds and reopen the valves for another 9.5milliseconds to release the 2nd droplets. When the 1st droplets are released they break an infrared beam which start two more timers. The 1st timer waited 140 milliseconds and then opened the camera shutter for 100 milliseconds. The second timer triggers the flash guns when the camera shutter curtain is fully open and captures the splashes. On the left the 1st droplet has just struck the water and the 2nd droplet can be seen coming down. On the right hand side you can see the 1st droplet hasn't hit the water yet and the 2nd droplet isn't visible. I have another box of tricks that sits between the valves that allows me to introduce another very small delay typically 3-4 milliseconds to one of the valves to correct for the mechanical variation between the solenoid valves. All good fun and it keeps me entertained :) My challenge is to get 4 valves completely synchronised lol ========================================================= Back lit droplets using a frosted panel and the Wilton icing colour dyes Yellow coloured milk into clear water, a black acrylic sheet positioned in the bottom of the tray Canon 40D and 100mm macro lens, full frame uncroppped image 1/10 sec@ f16 iso 100 Water/milk droplets delivered via two Stopshot controlled solenoid valves. Camera and flashes triggered by a IR beam and StopShot programmable trigger. 580Ex @ 1/128 on the left aimed at the droplet on the rhs a front silvered mirror bouncing some light back into the front of the droplet 580Ex @ 1/128 positioned behind a frosted acrylic panel with a blue gel on it at the rear of the droplet

What are swirl flaps? Swirl flaps are designed to create swirl or tumble of the air to aid better combustion under light load where soot levels tend to be dominant because of the lack of air, they are also there to help with driveability in low load conditions, they are controlled by a vacuum or solenoid actuator and are closed during light-load operations such as when idling at traffic lights, changing gear and deceleration to maximise combustion efficiency, fuel economy and emissions performance. The flaps are fully open during higher load conditions to maximise volumetric efficiency and power output. The swirl flaps are a poor design, they are prone to failure. When the swirl flap breaks, the debris falls into the engine, either sticking in the valve port and jamming it open, causing the piston to collide with the valve, or falls into the cylinder itself causing the piston and head to become damaged. What is the solution? BMW introduced an updated manifold in 2004 to address this problem, the spindle of the valve is thicker and stronger, this design is also prone to failure, another option is to purchase a new manifold and install it, however you will still havethe potential for the same problem to occur. The easiest and cheapest solution is to use our custom manufactured blanking plates, the blanks will fit in place of the current mechanism, there is no modification required! The plates are manufactured to the highest possible standards from aluminium. The car will function the same without the flaps, the flaps are there for emissions purposes, however the car will remain within guidelines and you will not notice a performance change!