DEWALT DW660SK 5-Amp 30,000 RPM Rotary Cut-Out Tool with 1/8-Inch and 1/4-Inch Collets, Side Handle, and Circle Cutter

In recent years, rotary cutout tools have soared in popularity, due mainly to a series of television infomercials promoting one brand. Though it doesn't receive the TV airplay of its main competitor, this DeWalt model uses a durable 5 amp motor--the most powerful motor yet in a cutout tool--making it a great tool for professional drywallers, electricians, and carpenters. To help battle dust infiltration, the tool features a sealed motor and switch, a must for any serious drywall tool. It also sports a quick-and-easy, tool-free bit-changing system and comes with both 1/8 and 1/4 inch collets. We really like the bump-off switch for quick tool shutdown and the simple and effective tool-free depth adjustments. Like other rotary cutout tools, this one uses spiral cutting bits, which work equally well plunging into a cut as they do laterally. In our test we found the DeWalt to be smooth running with low vibration. We had no problem plunging and cutting through 1-1/2 inches of solid birch, whizzing through drywall, and tearing through tile. In fact, this tool has more power than you'd expect from something of its size, and if you aren't paying attention, it can get away from you--an easier to live with problem than lack of power. Some extraordinary claims have been made about rotary cutout tools, and while DeWalt's cutout tool is as versatile as any we've tried, and a bit more powerful than most, it's most effective at what it was designed for--quick cutouts in drywall, tile, and plywood. --Brian Trinen

DEWALT's Heavy-Duty Cut-Out Tool Kit features a powerful tool for performing cut-out operations on a variety of building materials such as drywall and lumber. A 5.0 Amp motor runs at 30,000 RPM to deliver enough power to successfully cut away most common building materials. The tool-free bit changing system makes changing out bits fast and easy, and the removable side handle provides added support and control to this lightweight tool.

This shows how the rods attach to the sides. Just a 1 1/2" hole drilled most of the way through the plank (I left about 3/16" of inch so that the rod couldn't accidentally be pushed into or through the drywall after it was installed). I figured this would give the rod better support than a surface-mount cup or bracket. We've had those kind of brackets fail in a different closet (albeit one that was installed probably 30 years ago) and I want to avoid a repeat of that.

I cut in blocks for future attachment of curtain rods. Lucky we thought of this now and not after the drywall is up! My biggest grip is people drill/screw/nail curtain rod on my window trim, grrrrrrrr!