Joao Pessoa's most spectacular church is the Igreja de Sao Francisco (Mon 2-5pm, Tues-Sun 9am-noon & 2-5pm), which sits in splendid isolation atop the hill that bears its name, at the end of Rua Duque de Caxias, and now forms part of the Centro Cultural de Sao Francisco . The exterior alone is impressive enough. A huge courtyard is flanked by high walls beautifully decorated with azulejo tiling, with pastoral scenes in a series of alcoves. These funnel you towards a large early eighteenth-century church that would do credit to Lisbon or Coimbra: its most remarkable feature is the tower topped with an oriental dome, a form that the Portuguese encountered in Goa and appropriated for their own purposes. Older than the church by a few decades is the stone cross opposite the courtyard, at the foot of which is a group of finely carved pelicans, once believed to selflessly tear flesh from their own chests to feed their young, and so commonly used to symbolize Christ. You reach the church through an entrance which has marvellously carved wooden panels and doors. Beyond the church are the chapels and cloister of the Convento de Santo Antonio , and upstairs there's an excellent museum of popular and sacred art.

My souvenir from Harvest Homecoming in New Albany, IN. We'd had some great crisp fall-like days earlier this week, but not today! It got up to 92 and was freakishly sunny, so of course I got sunburned. :( I kinda wanted to slather ice cream on my chest and tops of my shoulders, but I opted to eat it instead. :D