I just added this seatpost to replace a straight post and steel clip. Introduced in 1963, it does date from several years after the bike was made. This seatpost was a GREAT improvement over both Campagnolo's 2-bolt style microadjusting post or the steel seatpin clips for straight posts. The two caphead screws would be tightened independently. The convenience of this accessability compares to the traditional seat clips which used a central axle and external hex nuts. But, a 6 mm. Allen wrench was much easier to use than a box-end wrench (spanner) which would need to be repositioned repeatedly... Naturally, a ratcheting socket wrench worked fine in the shop, but a hex-key was something you could easily carry along in a small tool kit. The single bolt on each side would grip the saddle rails and press the cradles against thick plastic discs around which the steel cradle inner frame will rotate to provide an infinite range of saddle level adjustment. The main section of the post is one piece forged alloy with only the saddle rail clamps in plated steel. Very effective and super easy to adjust. Especially nice compared to the two top-mounted (and nearly inaccessable) Campagnolo bolts... And, this mechanism really does not slip out of position! The Nitor 63 was really a VERY expensive seatpost. --- In 1963, they sold in England through Ron Kitching for MORE than a Campagnolo post - and Campagnolo components were always at the top end of any component price ranges. These were very short posts intended to minimize weight for racing, and although there is no "limit line" around half of the 6" straight shaft is exposed here... which is just enough for me to use on this bike. This low post position was common for proper frame fitting of the era... and just the way I still prefer my bikes today. DSCF4236

To get to the screws holding a wiring harness to the back of the dash, I used a small 1/4" ratcheting socket wrench. The handle is visible to the right of the steering column, to give an idea of the location of one of the screws. I had to pry the dash up a bit to get my hand in to place the socket on the screw. The dash will tolerate some tugging and bending, but I guess that depends on the condition. I'm lucky that the dash is not broken at all. Other pieces are chipped and broken, looks like maybe some ABS plastic parts, so those are not difficult to repair.