EL KANTO
| The prominent arete that towers above Copperhead. West facing, climb in the morning on hot days
El Kanto * (5.7 / 4, 120 ft, 2 pitches or 1 long one, small to medium pro, slings; FA Jaravata, 1992) Start can be a fun off-width or grab the halleluja root nestled inside the crack. The crux is after the tree: pinch holds on a slight overhanging face. Watch out for the ledge if you (and your pro) pop out.
El Kanto Left (5.7 / 4, 120 ft, 2 pitches or 1 long one, small to medium pro; FA Eng Chan, 1996) Follow the left crack at the start, avoid the tree root. Rejoins El Kanto at the ledge before the crux.
Sunset Arete * (5.11- / 6b+, 40 feet, 3 bolts, medium pro; FA Levi Nayahangan, Guillermo , Gax Ilanan, Gilson Chu; 11/97) Micro handholds and sloper footsies at the crux. Third bolt added to avoid possible grounder.
B.P.L. * (5.12- / 7a, 100 feet, 6 bolts plus chain anchors, slings; FA Gax Ilanan, Simon Sandoval; 4/98) Overhanging route with scarce holds; sustained and exposed. Same start as El Kanto or El Kanto Left.
52.White Streak * ( 5.12+ / 7c, 30 feet, 5 bolts, 2 rap anchors, FA Gax Ilanan, Simon Sandoval Oct 98) Ex - Long-standing project, reserved for Francois. Amazing short bouldery route on small crimps. Stunning location. Breath-taking top rope.
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TORRE
Past El Kanto and Copperhead, scramble uphill for a few more minutes. South facing, best climbed during overcast days.
Torre (5.8 / 4+, 65 feet; FA Jaravata, Tan-Torres, 1/93) Hand traverse on a 5.7 section, then a slight overhang above the first big hole.
No Left Turn ** (5.8 / 5, 90 ft., 5 bolts plus 2 anchors, medium pro, slings; FA Tan-Torres, 12/94) Slab moves at the start and power cranks as you get higher.
Gaijin (5.12-, 22m, 11 hangers, rap anchors, FA Dennis Diaz, Marvin Ilanan, Simon Sandoval Jan 1999)- Approach via the ledge on top of No Left Turn \endash traverse about 10 meters to the right to th e base of the climb. Alternatively, hike to Boogie Wall and scramble down to the rappel anchors to the base of the route.
SLAYER
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A 10-minute uphill scramble from El Kanto. Slayer is the imposing white wall. Routes are described from left to right. This area is definite to stay dry in a downpour, so is a favorite place for those rainy days.
Destruction (7a, 5.11c , 80 feet, 9 bolts plus 2 chain anchors FA,? ) Shares the first three bolts with next two routes. After third bolt, traverse left to gain upper wall. Some key holds have been destroyed, making the route a bit harder.
Slayer ** (6c+, 5.11 b, 80 feet, 10 bolts plus 2 chain anchors, slings; FA Tan-Torres, Ilanan, Imao; 5/96) Consistently overhanging with a roof on top and a stalactite you can play with.
Dragon Slayer (7b, 5.12a) Climb Slayer and continue past stalactite to the top-most hangers. There are three more hangers after the anchors of Slayer. Some rope drag when lowering. Make sure you have at least 150 ft (50m) rope.
Dragon Shit (7a+, 5.11d / 85 feet, 11 bolts plus 2 chain anchors, FA ?) Shares first four bolts of Slayer, then moves right. Interesting and challenging moves guard the anchors.
Delirium aka "Despidida" (7b+, 5.12b / 50 ft, 9 bolts plus 2 ring anchors, FA Kristian Guerrero, Simon Sandoval, Gax Ilanan, ) Start at the blank-looking wall to the right of Slayer wall. Follow bolts to an intresting crux, and scamper up the stalactite to the anchors. An alternative finish, which is rarely done due to the loose looking rock, moves to the left after the stalactite to a hanger and to a 2 ring anchor.
Dos Pistados (7a+, 5.11d/ 70 ft, 9 bolts plus 2 hanger anchors, FA Inigo Velasquez) Start on a ledge to the left of the cave on the far right where the next route is found. Follow the line that traverses right and up to the top. Tricky clipping the anchors.
Climber-in-a-hole (7c, 5.12c / 30ft, 11 bolts plus 2 chain anchors, FA Dennis Diaz / Mackie Makinano / Simon Sandoval May 2000) Start in the opening of a cave on the right of Slayer wall. Follow the bolts along the ceiling to the chain anhcors.
Slayer is the c-shaped over hanging wall on the left. Photo: S. Sandoval
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LABIA
From the parking area, cross the river and follow the trail
upstream, past nipa houses, for 15 minutes. This area might be overgrown with vegetation.
22.Labia (5.3 / 2, 100 feet, 2 pitches, FA Gus Guerrero, 1981)
23.Razor (5.3 / 2, 110 feet, 2 pitches, FA Bobbit Palaganas, 1982)
BY CHANCE
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Take the same trail to El Kanto but head uphill on a side trail about 100 meters before Copperhead.
31.Vertigo (5.6 / 3, 25 feet; FA Cyril Santiago, 1994)
32.Atlas (5.6 / 3, 25 feet; FA Santiago, 1994)
33.Quase'Modo (5.7 / 4, 25 feet; FA Vaca, 1994)
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COPPERHEAD and LAPA WALL
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Copperhead
Past Labia, this low (about 30 feet) crag is below the impressive arete of El Kanto. A 15-minute walk with a short scramble toward the end.
37.That's My Girl (5.3 / 2, 30 feet; FA Me-An Cruz, 8/93)
38.Bloody Fingers (5.5 / 2, 30 feet; FA Narciso, 1992)
39.Copperhead * (5.3 / 2, 30 feet; FA Vincent Christian, 1988) Easy to toprope, ideal for beginners.
40.Bored Me (5.4 / 2, 20 feet; FA Clarin, 1994)
Lapa Wall
Right behind Copperhead (see below).
34.Unnamed (5.2 / 1, 40 feet; FA Narciso, 11/89)
35.Lapa Wall (5.2 / 1, 40 feet; FA Tan-Torres, 1984)
36.The Last Time (5.4 / 2, 40 feet; FA Narciso, solo, 12/89) Last time Jong did a free solo.
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INNER SANCTUM
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(all topropes)
Go past Copperhead then turn left before El Kanto. Enter small cave to emerge into the Sanctum.
41.Tanggalable (5.4 / 2, 35 ft; FA Binky de Leon 4/96)
42.Taken (5.5 / 2, 35 ft; FA Gax Ilanan 4/96)
43. Unnamed (5.5 / 2, 35 ft; FA Kim Imao 4/96)
44.Transparent Emotions (5.4 / 2 35 ft; FA Joel Ramirez 8/95)
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HOLY WALL
Access via the Sanctum.
45.Threesome (5.2 / 1, 30 ft, med. pro; FA Narciso, 4/96)
46.Black Saturday (5.3 / 2, 30 ft toprope; FA Ross de los Santos)
47.Arete Les Amie (5.3 / 2, 30 ft, toprope; FA Narciso 4/96) |
