SCAPI Newsletter (Beta) Beta Issue 1 You will need Acrobat Reader to view the newsletter. SCAPI and its members in the news Article in MenZone featuring Lissa Lesaca. Press Releases 8th March 2004 The Sport Climbing-Bouldering Team proved victorious as they flew back to Manila with so many stories to tell. These 3 strong climbers showed their bouldering prowess at this year's Asian X-Games in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia from February 19-22 at the Putra Stadium. Lissa Lesaca, the lone female representative made it to the final round placing a good 9th place out of 19 women competitors. Kristian Guerrero, the youngest in this year's team, placed an impressive 7th place out of 29 men, besting some of the more experienced climbers in Asia. Dennis Diaz placed 23rd. The format for this year's bouldering event follows the same as last year. There were two walls with two different boulder problems. Wall A was named the "Tombstone", because of its 45 degree inclination. Wall B is called "Tsunami" with its sustained wavelike angle. Both these walls are of 30 feet high, varying in level of difficulty, depending on the routes set. Each climber will try to complete and finish the routes with the given 2 minute time limit. To score high, one has to attempt to finish the route with the least number of tries. To finish a route is referred as "top out". In this case, during the semi final round, Kristian and Lissa managed to top out the Wall A on their first try earning themselves a high score. The route on Wall B was a bit harder but both still collected high points, giving them a slot in the finals. The routes in the final round were just as difficult, with the route setters creating fluid but dynamic moves up the wall. The climbers have to jump and/or leap to be able to latch a good hold. They were also made to twist, drop and do spectacular footwork to be able to do the route efficiently. Even without prestigious medals to show off, Lissa, Kristian and Dennis had a wonderful trip to boast of. Participating in the Asian X-Games is one learning experience that each of them will treasure. It has armed them with a broader perspective in the sport of climbing, coming home energized, ready to go back into training. The friendships made, the engrams and skills garnered were all part of the game. Thus, they have proven that the Filipino climber can. Competitions such as these give promising climbers a chance to gauge their strengths and weaknesses and to improve one's craft, enhancing bouldering techniques. Through the years climbers aspire to participate in as many international competitions as they can. For the Asian X-Games VI presented by Toyota and ESPN, Team Philippines is truly thankful for the support extended by The North Face, Bodyworx Fitness Gym, The Philippine Sport Commission and the Sport Climbing Association of the Philippines Inc., and for believing in the Filipino athlete.
The Sport Climbing Association of the Philippines, Inc. (SCAPI) was recently awarded a National Sport Association (NSA) status and now falls under the guidance of the Philippine Olympic Committee (POC). Artificial rock climbing made its entry into the sport scene in 1993 when climbers of the UP Mountaineers began scaling the university library building with molded hand holds and foot holds attached to the building wall. Today there are over 15 climbing centers, 3 being school based and the rest being privately run businesses. Sport Climbing made its official entry in the Olympics as a demo sport in the 1993 Winter Olympics in Lillehammer. The Union Internationale Associacion d'Alpinisme (UIAA), the world governing body for climbing and mountaineering, then decided that climbing was best suited for the Summer Olympics. Until today, it has yet to see its official re-entry into the Olympics. The Philippines has been excelling in sport climbing over the years. Notable wins have been our junior climbers Tagoy Ledesma, Andrew Robles, Kristle Hawkins, Joanne Songalia and Chrisper Ruego winning the top positions in ESPN's Junior Asian X-Games in 2000 and 2001. Marvin Ilanan won a Silver medal in the 1999 Asian Speed Climbing Championships in Taiwan. Others include Simon Sandoval's 4th place finish at the 1999 Hong Kong Difficulty Competition, Nana Araneta's 9th place at the Asian X-Games-Bouldering Category, Dennis Diaz's 2nd place in the 2002 and 2003 Hong Kong Bouldering Invitational, and a recent feat in 2003 by Jaime Amiel Pahati bagging 8th in the prestigious World Cup Climbing Competition-Speed category in China. The National Team selections is organized by SCAPI with a series of accredited climbing competitions touring Luzon, Visayas and Mindanao with this year being the 10th year. Taking care of the developmental aspect is the National Inter-college Sport Climbing Championships, this year being its 5th. SCAPI has also taken a wider stance, developing outdoor climbing sites in the Philippines. The National Park in Wawa, Montalban is now home to over a hundred routes. Tourists from Hong Kong, Spain and Australia have frequented this site for weekend climbing trips in search of limestone crags. Dingle in Ilo-ilo is also now a developing area attracting local as well as foreign tourists to the tall cliffs in the area with more than thirty routes in two areas. The Philippines is home to numerous other limestone crags, making rock climbing a strong potential draw for Philippine eco-tourism. As the sport continues to grow, this time with the help of the POC, SCAPI aims to generate more interest and development for Sport Climbing in the Philippines. It hopes to be the first to convert a once radical and extreme sport into a well accepted, challenging yet safe and healthy activity that can be enjoyed by the active and energetic Filipino. SCAPI can be contacted at 690 Tandang Sora Ave, Old Balara, Quezon City. Tel/fax 932-7273 or through email info@scapi.org. For updates on the Philippine climbing scene, visit http://www.scapi.org
Jeremy Flores Crissie Malay PHILIPPINE TEAM IN FULL FORCE AT HONG
KONG COMP Last November 29-30, 2003, eleven (11) enthusiastic climbers trooped to Hongkong to participate in a Bouldering Invitational Competition at the Star Atrium, Plaza Hollywood, Diamond Hill, Hong Kong. This is by far the biggest delegation the country has represented in a climbing event. Team Philippines was comprised of six (6) men and five (5) women namely: Dennis Diaz, Erwin Gozum, Buddy Advincula, Kristian Guerrero, Aldwin Ibañez, and Gilson Chu; Lissa Lesaca, Marie Calica, Shane Buzon, Bambi Ramiro and Tala Taningco respectively. The Pinoys shocked the Hong Kong climbing community as they witnessed the powers of Team Philippines. Bouldering prowess and strong team spirit were the team's greatest assets. Filipinos in Hong Kong showed their full support to the team and gamefully cheered on. Dennis Diaz garnered the highest award for the Filipino contingent, placing 2nd overall in the men's bouldering category next to first placer Chu Ka Wai of Hong Kong. Dennis bested other homegrown Hong Kong climbers with his on-sighting abilities. Buddy Advincula soared through the final round and placed 5th. Fellow Pinoy finalists were Kristian Guerrero on 7th place and Aldwin Ibañez at 10th place. Awards and prizes were given till the sixth placers. The women's team also gave a good showing. Lissa Lesaca who ranked top in the elimination round landed 6th overall. Liu Hiu Ying proved to be the best boulderer in Hong Kong placing 1st finishing most of the boulder problems in the final round. Bambi Ramiro and Tala Taningco ranked 7th and 8th respectively, both first-timers in an international bouldering event. Other Pinay climbers who made it to the finals are Marie Calica, 10th and Shane Buzon, 12th place. There were a total of 17 competitors for the Men's Open category and 13 competitors for the Women's Open. The ICC rules in scoring was implemented similar in the World Cup Bouldering Competition Series. A bonus hold and final hold were marked accordingly. Judges noted number of attempts to each hold. The less number of attempts meant a higher score. Four walls were constructed in a quadrangular manner, where spectators had a glimpse of various climbing techniques on a straight, inclined, over-hanging and slab wall. There were 4 boulder problems, one on each wall where climbers were allotted five minutes to figure the route sequence. Another 4 routes were made for the final round for the following day. Each problem posed a challenge for the competitors requiring technique, endurance and power combined. This experience proved to be an enjoyable one for the National Team. They came home not empty-handed but fulfilled as they look forward to training again for future competitions. Participating in events such as these gave the Filipino climbers a chance to display their climbing skills at the same time gauge their strengths and weaknesses in order to improve their craft. A sense of pride carried each climber to greater heights as they all performed very well, in honor of their country, proud to be Filipinos. Team Philippines is grateful to generous and supportive sponsors: Bodyworx The Fitness Gym, The Philippine Sports Commission (PSC), Bombshell, Power-Up Center for Climbing and Fitness Gyms, Play Underground, Planet Rock Gym, and the Sport Climbing Association of the Philippines, Inc. (SCAPI). The team also thanks Filipino friends in Hong Kong who took time to watch and screamed their hearts out rooting for fellow kababayans. For further information, please contact:
My World Cup Experience In the world of climbing, the biggest event that I could ever imagine attending is the UIAA World Cup. I always thought that my chances of joining were slim. But about four months ago, after having dreamed of joining an international competition for so long, an invitation came out of the blue. I could hardly believe it, I was eligible to join the World Cup, plus, my parents were willing to support me. I have to admit that I was very reluctant to leave my home for 4 days being prone to homesickness as I am. But somehow, I knew that it was going to be an awesome experience. The hotel, food, and transportation from Hong Kong to Shenzhen were all free. As we reached the competition area early Saturday morning, the wall was huge, at least twice as big as what we're used to here. I was the 10th climber for the women and the first of the Filipinos. I was really intimidated by the number of climbers and also by their sizes. There were only a few tall women, but almost all of them had chiseled biceps. Before I knew it, it was time for mass view. Both the men and women viewed the walls at the same time, so there was a swarm of almost 80 people running towards the wall. Next thing I know, I'm sitting in the transition zone beside Yuyun Yuniar, one of Indonesia's top speed climbers, and Mi-Sun Go, who finished 8th for this competition. They told me to pretend that my family and friends were in the audience cheering me on so that I could get rid of my nerves. My climb wasn't as good as I wanted it to be, but Ina Flores (20th), Miel Pahati (22nd), and Maman Salada (21st), had excellent climbs which landed them in the semi-finals. Watching the speed competition later that night was amazing. Because of his strength, Polish climber Tomasz Oleksy literally ripped off the hold with a portion of the wall coming down as well. It was the first time that I've seen such a thing, but the replacement of the panel was very efficient and quick. My favorite part of the trip was watching and seeing other climbers. It was such an inspiring and motivating experience that I promised myself that I would train hard for next year. One of the things that I realized was that a person's height isn't as important as I once thought it was. Belgian climber Muriel Sarkany is around my height, but despite this, she still manages to gain first place in numerous difficulty competitions. Since I didn't make it to the semi-finals, I became a spectator for the whole day of Sunday. While waiting for the finals, we got pictures and autographs of the French climbers Alexandre Chabot, Gerome Pouvreau, and Sylvain Millet. Later that night, we were able to get pictures with Spanish, Russian, German, Belgian, and even with Austrian climbers. During the farewell dinner, Maman and I went around getting almost everyone's autographs and we also took some last minute pictures. It was then that I felt like I didn't want to go home, it was completely opposite of what I was feeling just a few days before. I remember that before I left, everyone was really excited for me, and I didn't quite understand why. Now that I've actually had the opportunity and experience of joining the World Cup, I realize where their enthusiasm and passion is coming from, and now feel the same way. I can't wait 'til next year!
Philippine's Jaime Amiel Pahati placed 8th in the Men's Speed Category at the UIAA Worldcup climbing competition in Shenzen, China held last 21-23rd November 2003. It is the first time the Philippines has won a trophy in the prestigious Worldcup series sanctioned by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA). In the Difficulty Category, Elaina Flores placed 20th in the Women's category with her teammates Kristine Robles and Barbara Ramiro garnering 27th and 34th places respectively. In the Men's division, Arman Salada placed 20th, Jaime Pahati 21st and Simon Sandoval 30th. The competition was attended by more than 20 countries from around the world. Top bet from France, Francios Auclair won the men's Difficulty and Belgium's Muriel Sarkany won the women's Difficulty Category. In the Speed Category, Russia's Alexandre Pechekhonov and Maia Piratinskala placed first. Complete results can be seen at http://www.icc-info.org/ "These results are the best we have achieved in the Worldcup circuit which we have been participating for the third year. We have gained valuable experience from the competition and look forward to participating in more international events," comments Simon Sandoval. The 2003 Philippine National Sport Climbing Team is supported by Body Worx, Power Up Climbing gyms, Play Underground, Planet Rock, Redpoint, Bombproof Gear, 360 Shoes, the Philippine Sports Commission and the Sports Climbing Association of the Philippines, Inc. (SCAPI).
Last August 23-24, 2003, two Filipino climbers were sent to Changping, Beijing, China for the 12th Asian Sport Climbing Championship. Dennis Oliver Diaz and Elaina Kristine "Ina" Flores, currently ranked #3 male and #1 female in Philippine Sport Climbing Team, respectively, represented the country in this Asian-wide competition. The competition lasted for two days, the first day entirely devoted to the Difficulty Category while the second day for both Difficulty and Speed. The morning of the first competition day included the women's semi-final round and the men's quarterfinals. Out of 28 competitors in the women's division, only 8 advanced to the finals. Ina placed 12th during the semifinals, landing herself a ranking of 12 for the whole competition. In the men's division, 26 out of 37 competitors advanced to the quarterfinals, Dennis included in this list of semifinalists. In the afternoon, the competition proceeded with the men's semi-finals. Dennis landed in 17th place, also making it his ranking for the whole competition. The second day started with the elimination round for Speed, an event only Ina joined. She also earned 12th place. The afternoon provided more activity, as all the final rounds were then held. Climbers from Korea, Japan, Hong Kong and China made the lineup of eight women in the Difficulty finals. The men's list of finalists was composed of climbers from Korea, China, Indonesia, Japan and Taipei. In the end, the women's division had Mi Sun Go winning the gold for Korea, followed by Rie Kimura from Japan and Liping Huang from China. In the men's division, placing first was Ja Ha Kim, also from Korea, followed by Rongwu Cao then by Changzhong Liu, both from China. In the Speed Category, the list of finalists in both male and female divisions was dominated by climbers from Indonesia, China and Hong Kong, making it apparent how these teams specialize in speed climbing. The women's division resulted in a sweep by Indonesia, grabbing the top three spots. Etti Hendrawati, Evi Neliwati and Yuyun Yuniar have been consistent top placers in most Asian-wide competitions. In the male division, Chi-Wai Lai of Hong Kong won over two bets from China, Xiaojie Chen and Hetai Ma. The whole competition, as all international competitions go, serve as an inspiration for local climbers to train harder to be at par with their competitors. Although it seems impossible to find the luxury of time and money to spend on training, their physical, mental and emotional energy is pushed to the limit. It has always been a sentiment of all local athletes, the climbers notwithstanding, to be given government support and sponsorship to allow them to focus solely on their sport. The possibility of this happening soon is uncertain. Nevertheless, climbers continue to pursue their dreams of becoming world-class athletes, making the most of what they've got. SCAPI would like to thank the following that have supported the National Sport Climbing Team - Power UP, Planet Rock, Play Underground, Body Worx Spa and Fitness Club and the Philippine Sports Commission. For further information, please contact: Dennis Oliver Diaz Lissa Lesaca
The Philippines is sending two climbers to the 12th Asian Climbing Championship in Beijing, China. The event is recognized by the International Mountaineering and Climbing Federation (UIAA) and is the most prestigious annual Asian climbing competition. In the past, the Philippines bagged Silver medal for the difficulty competition - Marvin Ilanan has the honor holding the highest rank attained by the Philippines in the Asian Championship. The current Philippine National Sport Climbing Team is proudly sponsored by Body Worx, Power-Up, Playunderground andPlanet Rock. 9 June 2003
Over the 3 days, the climbing facility 3 floors below street level served as the hub of Philippine Sport Climbing. The 36-foot high wall, set by master route setters Mackie Makinano, Beau Dela Cruz, Taz Biagan, Ronel Estillore from SCAPI, tested the skills, stamina and strategy of over a hundred climbers from all over the country. At the Opening Ceremony, we witnessed something exceptionally different this year. Percussionists and dancers from Tribu Aggressive Wear made a stage of the top of Play Underground's boulder to the delight and enthusiasm of climbers and the general audience. They left the audience with awe and amusement. The sportsman's oath was then led by SCAPI president Simon Sandoval. The competition showcased the future of the Philippine Sport Climbing scene, starting off with the Juniors Category. The juniors were powerhouses of exceptional skill and talent as they hung on to minute holds longer, and found places to position their small feet. Most notable was the superfinals that had to be held for the Girls, 11 to 13 years old category. Despite such, Tala Marie Taningco, Samantha Castro, and Trisha Yaokasin were still tied for first place and were all declared winners in their category. Exhibiting consistent top form, Kristine Robles, who placed in last year's Nationals, climbed to third place this year. But while the Women's Open allowed the ladies to display their top climbing form, tough calls were necessary, and a superfinals had to take place between Lissa Lesaca and Ina Flores. These two women showed their supremacy when both had to climb the same route as the men's finals (with a few holds changed). Yet, after amazing climbs on the modified men's wall, both still emerged at the top, and a tie was finally declared between Lissa Lesaca and Ina Flores. The Men's Open was not lacking in tough climbing competition either. Newcomers were able to infiltrate the prestigious finals rounds, while the crowd saw old-timers literally hanging on to the top holds. Third place went to defending champion Dennis Oliver Diaz, while Miel Pahati took second place. Recent X-games contestant and the pride of Iligan City, Michael "Igi-Boy" Lagda claimed this year's first place, topping out on the men's wall with energy to spare. What do we do about our youth competitors nowadays? They are showing their dominance in the open category this early on. To promote the sport, a free climbing clinic was sponsored by Addict Mobile at the beginner's wall. In addition, we had some celebrities featuring the prowess of Tessa Prieto-Valdez, Illac Diaz, Pinky Amador, and Dianne Castillejo enjoy sport climbing. CLIMBMAX was capped off with closing & awarding ceremonies at Dish in the Powerplant Mall. Pinky Amador was guest performer and host, together with JJ Sison. The evening was highlighted by a very unique fashion show. The Philippines' top climbers strutted their stuff for the first time on the ramp, and showed that they were not all strength but also grace and style. Running Bare (available at Naturalizer store in Rockwell), Quicksilver, Tribu, and Salomon featured their latest active, adventure and aggressive wear. Many thanks to our models Nana Araneta, Jeanette Ifurung, Tina Baron, Bambi Ramiro, Lissa Lesaca, Marie Calica, Shane Buzon, Jen Rosete, Maman Salada, Riggs Santos, and Joey Ocampo. Special thanks to Omar Ermita for helping them with their make up. CLIMBMAX was organized by Play Underground, technical director KIM IMAO, Events Director Danny Jota, Events Manager Abby Antonio of Xtreme Concepts, and the Sport Climbing Association of the Philippines, Inc. (SCAPI). This was also brought to you by SMART ADDICT, SALOMON, SEA AIR, Pearl of the Pacific Boracay, and THE MANILA BULLETIN. For further information, please contact: Lissa Lesaca
4 June 2003 SCAPI held a series for lectures for its members on the 4th of June 2003 at Power Up in Tandang Sora, Quezon City. As a part of SCAPI's commitment to helping improve the ability and increase the knowledge of the climbers in the Philippines, Lissa Lesaca, Secretary of SCAPI, invited three experts in their respective fields to lecture. Trina Lat, a physical therapist at the Ateneo Moro Sports Center, spoke on typical climbing injuries, their treatment and prevention. Her presentation can be downloaded here (357 kB, Powerpoint format). She answered a number of questions that were fielded by the climbers present. Janet Belarmino, a climber and ironman triathlete, spoke about the scientific side of physical conditioning and the need for dynamic stretching. Dynamic stretching, as opposed to static stretching, encourages the flow of blood in the sport-specific muscles. She also shed light why stretching before and after workouts is extremely important for climbers. The last speaker, Mylene Imao, discussed the topic of visualization and the impact his can have on the climbing performance. She drew many parallels between climbing and day-to-day life and the need to visualize a plan to how one shall meet one's objectives as well as anticipate what to do if unforeseen situations arise. After the clinics, a potluck dinner followed for the provincial visitors who have stayed from last weekend to attend the championship leg of the 9th National Sport Climbing Competition at Play Underground in Rockwell Mall, Makati City. 3 June 2003 The Luzon Leg of 9th National Sport Climbing Circuit held at Power Up Center for Climbing and Fitness in Quezon City was successfully held from May 31 to June 1. Originally planned for Power Up in Pasig, the event was moved at the last minute due to the unpredictable weather conditions. This though did not stop the turn out of the 113 participants as they trooped to Power Up for the competition. The competition wall, dominated by a 20 foot roof section, kept the climbers upside down for most of their time. This brought out "wows" from the crowd as a display of muscular endurance and strength shone from both the men's and women's categories. The final routes as set by Mackie Makinano of the Sport Climbing Association of the Philippines, forced the women into a test of muscular stamina. Beginning in a wall section leaning out 15 degrees from the vertical, the route progressed into the roof with solid jug holds. At the exit of the roof, the real test came as a "crux" was placed, forcing the ladies to rest hanging inverted like bats before making their way to the covetted Top Out. Climbing farthest into the route, and therefore winning the competition was UP student Ina Flores, followed by Kristine Robles for second place and Shane Buzon for third. The men's finalists on the otherhand were forced into displaying extra ordinary strength. With the holds sparsely placed and strategically positioned, the setters managed to eliminate the use of feet on the roof exit. The men rose up to the challege with one-arm lock offs on holds barely 2 finger digits deep. Surprising the field of competitors was a junior competitor from Iligan Michael Jay Lagda who edged past the group with the best sequence of moves at the roof exit. Second place went to Jun Vidal of Cebu and third went to Andrew Robles of Manila. Although these climbers are no longer new to competition climbing, they are much youger than the climbers who have dominated the National scene in the past, making it clearly a sign that sport climbing has its future well established. Joining the competition were 43 juniors
who had separate but equally exciting competitions.
Junior climbers from below 10 years old to 19 were given
challenging routes bringing oubt the best in their climbing.
For a complete compilation of results, visit The competition was capped off with a mini concert sponsored by San Mig Light with help from concert organizer Romeo Lee. The event was presented by Power Up Pasig and San Mig Light with the support of Astro Holds, Olympic Village, Mojo Sandals, Nestea and Game Plan. 12 May 2003 The First Leg of the 2003 National Circuit was successfully held over the last week-end, 10-11 May 2003 at Pink Patio Resort, Boracay Island. Ninety competitors from all over the country came to compete over the two days. More than thirty of these were Juniors who competed in there categories Juniors A (ages 15-17) Juniors B (ages 11-14) and Juniors C (ages 10 and below). A strong competitor field resulted in a number of super final rounds, as the top seeds in the Women’s Open, Junior’s A Boys, Junior’s A Girls, Junior’s B Boys and Juniors C all reached the top of their elimination and final rounds. A complete listing of the results can be found at SCAPI’s website http://www.scapi.org The Sport Climbing Association of the Philippines, Inc. (SCAPI) would like to thank Pink Patio Resort, San Mig Light, Globe Gentext, WG&A Superferry, Pier One, Bombproof Gear, Asian Spirit, Air Philippines, Citylite 88.3, Joey Rhythms 92.3, and Timawa Wall Systems. SCAPI would like to especially thank Jack of Pink Patio for his hard work and South East Asian Airlines (formerly Seair) for flying the SCAPI officials to Boracay. The Second Leg of the 2003 National Circuit shall be held at Power-Up Pasig from 31st May to 1 June and the Championship shall be held at Play Underground at Makati City from the 6th to the 8th of June. For more information, please visit http://www.scapi.org or email info@scapi.org. Manila, 20 January 2003 The Philippines sent ten athletes to the ESPN Asian Junior X-Games IV and Asian X-Games Qualifier V to be held in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia on January 20-26, 2003. The ESPN Junior X Games IV takes place on January 20-22 and will feature athletes 8 to 14 years old. The Philippine Junior Climbing team consists of Karl Lacson, Michael Lagda, Chrispper Ruega, Laurence Mistades, Tala Taningco and Ma. Joanne Songalia. The Asian X Games V will follow, from January 23 to 26. The Philippine Climbing Team is lead by Dennis Diaz, with teammates Kristian Guererro, Lissa Lesaca, Buddy Advincula, Erwin Gozum and Ina Flores. Asia Pacific's most anticipated action sports competition - the Asian X Games V and ESPN Junior X Games IV returns to Kuala Lumpur next week for it's much awaited second annual staging at KLCC Park. From January 20 to 26, the ultimate international action sports competition in Asia brings together over 200 of the best athletes in five sport disciplines - skateboarding, aggressive inline skating, bicycle stunt, wakeboarding and sport climbing - from 13 countries/territories across the region. This includes athletes from Thailand, China, Chinese Taipei, the Philippines, Singapore and Malaysia who qualified through the only regional action sports competition tour, the Asian Xtour. The athletes who qualified for the games through the Asian Xtour held throughout last year will compete for a share of the US$122,000 prize money, medals and invitations to compete in ESPN's X Games IX in Los Angeles, California in August 2003. More information about the 2003 ESPN Asian X-Games can be found at http://www.asianxgames.com |
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