In September to November 1970, the 45 ft Bermudan sloop 'Aqualas' sailed on a cruise from Auckland to Great Barrier Island, Whangarei, Kermadec Islands, South Minerva Reef, Tonga, Vatoa Island, (on the day of Fiji's independence), Fiji's capital Suva and other islands in Fiji, before returning to New Zealand. There were 9 crew aboard, and the object of the cruise was to get crayfish at South Minerva Reef and sail to Fiji and sell them. It didn't work out that way, but it proved to be an enjoyable and interesting cruise nevertheless. 

In the days  following our departure from Whangarei, some routine was established and watches assigned. Later, and after the land had disappeared below the horizon the noon sight was taken daily when the sun’s disk was apparent and our track recorded on the chart.

If a sight was not possible, then a position was worked out from our estimated course, amount of leeway, and speed.

We started seeing the solitary large fins of giant Sunfish flopping lazily from side to side. Flying fish glided extraordinary distances as they escaped some danger below. By leaving the masthead light on it lighted up the mainsail, thus attracting flying-fish to hit it in mid-flight whence they slid down to the deck. The occasional shark was found swimming on the surface. We caught a two-metre mako shark and started to eat it. Very quickly, it seemed, it smelt of ammonia.

As we tracked northward, the New Zealand winter evaporated in our wake. In bright moonlight we passed half a mile east of L’Esperance Rock. (Full moon was 14^th October). Against the vertical cliffs of the 12-acre island we could clearly see heavy swells breaking. The island is the southern-most of the islands that make up the Kermadec Islands. By morning we could see MacCauley Island to the North East. We also saw about a dozen humpback whales. MacCauley seemed to be the same shape as Tiritiri Matangi in the Hauraki Gulf. Some pressure went on the skipper to go in close but we continued north.

Aqualas reefed down. (Photo Don Armitage copyright)

Aqualas approaching Curtis (on right) and Cheeseman Islands from the south. Stella Passage between the islands.

(Photo Don Armitage copyright) 

Curtis and Cheeseman Islands separated by the Stella Passage appeared later in the day. As we approached the passage the intensity of sea and bird life became apparent. In the passage proper we passed several schools of fish shoaling with sharks cruising around and amongst them. North of the passage more schools of fish were accompanied by porpoises although I can’t recall the species but by the size I’d imagine they were bottlenose.

As we cruised past Curtis Island, we could see the crater from the active volcano it was. It steamed away lazily without seeming violence. Sulphur was readily apparent. The crater opened almost to the sea. When the sea was heavy, violent eruptions of steam must have taken place.

We arrived in the afternoon, too late to make it worthwhile going ashore. So we anchored off the Herald Islets, on the north-eastern side of the island. Raoul Island is xxxx acres (xxx Hectares) and at that time was infested with rats, cats and goats apart from a variety of exotic weeds.

We fished into the evening, pulling in many species of small sharks. (I recall the shape of the teeth varied greatly). Occasionally a larger shark came up. Out came the shotgun and blew it to pieces. The gore must have been sending the sharks below into a frenzy. (No culture of conservation in New Zealand then - the resources of the world were limitless).  

The anchor-chain growled very annoyingly all night on the rocky bottom.

Dawn came and so did some rain. Leaving a couple of crew aboard we went ashore in the dinghy and leapt onto the stone landing.

Raoul Island, Kermadec Islands, circa mid-October, 1970.

We made our way up the narrow cliff path. Broadleaf forest pressed in on all sides. At the top a member of the 9-man Kermadec team with a tractor and trailer awaited us. We had armed ourselves with rum, cans of beer, food and stores to swap. I took a hapuka-like fish I’d speared in 8ft of water as a gift- it must have been a Kermadec bass (now protected). As we slowly chugged through the forest, goats ran into the bush at our approach.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I noticed an acquaintance had preceded us. A sketch of some previous met team member by the Tongan/European Whangarei navigator/yachtsman Jerry Hunter was hanging on the wall of the main lounge. Jerry had made a lot of money during WW2 in Auckland doing quick portraits of American soldiers. He was still diving in his 70s when our dive club used to hire him and his trimaran 'Clansman' from Taurikura Bay to depart late at night from the Marsden Point wharf regularly to get out to Great Barrier Island, the Moko Hinaus, Simpson Rock or the Hen and Chicken Islands. 

(We later caught up with Jerry sitting on a foreign yacht in the Nukualofa yacht harbour teaching navigation to the owner).

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A fight developed in the orange grove planted by Frederick Bell a century before. Oranges were flying everywhere.  If one ignored them as missiles, and ate them, they at once became addictive. They were so sweet and delicious, the skins just fell off them. We gathered up maybe 150 kg of them to carry on board. What troubles they later caused. Not one case of scurvy on the entire voyage though.

 

The station let us make radio-telephone calls back to New Zealand. They were still using a ZC1, same handpiece as one, maybe I’m wrong. Some of us dived around Raoul. I recall the high numbers of generally small sharks, dull-coloured corals, lion fish, kingfish, and the Kermadec Bass. One took my spear, the reel on my gun having jammed, I ripped the gun away as I was dragged downward, so had to go back to the yacht and go down with a tank to retrieve it from a hole at around 60 or 70 feet where the fish had gone. At some point I came across a crown-of-thorn starfish- the first one found in New Zealand waters. It was almost half a metre across and a light lime green. I saw none of the sea-snakes commented on by Roy Bell in the book on the Bell family, ‘The Crusoes of Sunday Island’ by Elsie Morton.

 

We sailed on to South Minerva Reef, the main object of our voyage.

 

 

 

Sir, The following extract from the letter of one of the officers of HMS Herald….dated December 6^th, may be of …interest.

“We sailed from Sydney on May 27^th for New Zealand.…..On July 2^nd we reached the Sunday Island of Whalers (Raoul Island of its discoverer) where we remained surveying until the 24^th, during which the ship took up no less than six anchorages, not one of which is safe, except under very favourable circumstances, such as we did not meet with. An American of the name of Halstead (with two Kingsmill women and some half-caste children, has settled here, and supplies whalers in their season with wood, stock and vegetables. His flagstaff is in lat. 29.15S and long. 182.5E or 177.55W. ….”

Source- “The Shipping Gazette and Sydney General Trade List” 8^th January, 1855. 262 col.1.

Note- you can see that the international date line was not set to the east of the Kermadecs at this date- dja