At 6am on 17th November, 1769, the Endeavour was two or three nautical miles off the twin rocks between Cape Barrier and Rosalie Bay
The following transcriptions describing the events of the days before, during and just after, are by the National Library of Australia.
15 November 1769
Wednesday, 15th In the evening I went in the Pinnace and landed upon one of the Island that lies off of the South head of the Bay, with a View to see if I could not discover any sunken rocks or other dangers lying before the entrence of the bay as there was a pretty large swell at this time. The Island we landed upon was very small yet there was were upon it a Village the Inhabitants of which received us with very friendly, this little Village was laid out in small oblong squares and each pallisaded round, The Island afforded no fresh water and was only accessible on one side, from this I concluded that it was not choose for any conveniencey it could afford them but for its natural strength —
At 7 AM weigh'd with a light breeze at West and clear weather, and made sail out of the Bay steering N.E. for the Northeastermost of a number of Islands lying off the North Point of the Bay, these Islands are of various extent and ly scattered to the N, NW in a parallel diriction with the Main as far as we could see. I was at first afraid to go within them thinking that there was no safe Passage. but I afterwards thought that we might and I would have attempted it but the wind comeing to the NW prevented it; so that we was were obliged to Stand out to sea. At Noon was in the Latitude of 36°..46' So The northermost Island above mentioned bore North distant half a League, the Court of Aldermen SBE SEBS distt 6 Leagues and the Bay Saild from ^which I have named Mercury Bay, on accot of the observn be[ing] made there SWBW distant 6 Miles. Great part of the land adjoining to the place where we lay is called by the Natives others parts have distinct names to them selves but I have choose this for the whole Bay because of its more easy pronunciation but I have preserved all the others in the Plan of the Bay
The ^Mercury Bay of lies in the Latitude of 36°..47' So and in the Longitude of 184°.. 4' Wt from the Meridion of Greenwich. but its Longitude will be more accurately determined from the Observation of the Transit of Mercury This Bay ^it lies in SW between 2 & 3 Leagues. there are several Islands lying both to the Southward and northward of it and a small high Island or Rock in the Middle of the entrance Within this Island the depth of water doth no where exceed 9 or 8 fathom - The best anchorage is in a sandy bay which lies just within the south head, in 4 5 and 4 fm bringing a high tower rock which lies without the head in one with the head, or just shut in behind it; here it is very convenient Wooding and watering, and ^in the River are an immence quantity of Oysters and other small shell fish, and this is the only thing it is remarkable fore and hath occasioned my giving it the name of Oyster River —
But the Snugest and safest place for a Ship to lay in that wants to stay here any time is in the River at the head of the Bay and where there are every conveniency the place can afford. To sail ^up and into it keep the south shore all the way on board. As we did not learn that the Natives had any name for this River I have calld it the River of Man groves because of the great quantity of these trees that are found in it — The Country on the SE side of this River and Bay is very barren produceing little else but Fern and such other Plants as delight in a poor - soil. The land on the NW side is pretty well cover'd with Wood, the soil more fertile and would no doubt produce the necessarys of life was it cultivated however thus much must be said againest it, that it is not near so rich and fertile as the lands we have seen to Southward, and the same may be said of its Inhabitants who altho pretty numerous are poor to the highest degree when compar'd ^to others we have seen. they have no plantations but live wholy on Fern roots and fish, their Canoes are mean and without ornament, and so are their houses or hutts and in general every thing they have about them. This may be owing to the frequent wars in which they are certainly ingaged, strong proofs of this we have seen, for the people who resided near the place where we wooded and who slept every night in the open air place'd themselves in such a manner when they laid down to sleep as plainly shewed that it was necessary for them to be always upon their guard. They do not own subjection to Teeratu the Arree Earee de hi: but say that he would kill them was he to come a mong them, they confirm the custom of eating their enimies so that this is a thing no longer to be doubted. I have before observed that ^many of the people about this ^bay had no fix'd habitations and we thought so then, but have sence learnt that they have strong holds or Hippa's as they call them, which they retire to in time of danger —
 We found thrown upon the Shore in several places in this Bay quantities of Iron Sand which is brought down out of the Country by almost every little frish water brook. this proves that there must be of that ore not far inland — Neither the Inhabitants of this place or any other where we have been know the use of Iron, or set the least Value upon it, prefering the most trifleing thing we could give them to a nail or any sort of Iron tools. Before we left this Bay we cut out upon one of the trees near the watering place, the Ships Name, date &Ca and after displaying the English Colours I took formal posession of the place in the name of His Majesty —
16 November 1769
Thursday 16th Fresh breezes between the NW and S.W. and fair weather. At 1 PM having got within the Group of Islands which lies of the North head of Mercury Bay, haul'd our wind to the northward and kept plying to windward all this day between these Islands and some others laying to the Northward of them, with a View to get under the Main land, the extreem N.W. point of which, that we could see ^at noon bore WBN. distant 6-8 Leagues. Latd in per observation 36°..33' So -
Note, In speaking of Mercury Bay I had forgot to mention that the Mangrove trees found there produce a resinous substance very much like rosin - something of this kind I am told is found in both the East and West Indias. We found it at first in small lumps upon the Sea beach, but afterwards found it sticking to the Mangrove trees and by that means found out from whence it came —
17 November 1769
17th The fore and middle parts had fresh gales between the SW and WBS, and squally, kept plying to windward in order to get under the land - At 6 AM fetched close under the lee of the northernmost Island in sight, then tacked and stood to the Southward untill a 11 when ^ at this time we tack'd and stood to the Nd the North head of Mercury Bay ^or Point Mercury bore SEBE distant 3 Leagues, being at this time between 2 and 3 Leagues from the main land and a breast of a place where there appear'd to be a Harbour, but the heavy squales which we had from the land would not permit us to take a nearer view of it, but soon brought us under our close reef'd topsails - At Noon the North head of Bay Point Mercury bore SE distant 4 Leagues and the Westermost point of the Main land in sight bore N 60° Wt distant 5 Leagues. Over the N.W side of Mercury Bay is a pretty high round hill, riseing sloaping from the Shore of the Bay: this hill is very conspicuous from where we now are —
18 November 1769
Saturday 18th First part Strong gales at SW and SSW with havy squales, in the Morning had gentle breezes at So and SE, towards noon had whifling light airs all round the Compass -
Kept plying to windward under Close reef'd Topls untill day light AM, at which time we had got close under the Main. and the wind coming at SE we made sail and steer'd NWBW as the land lays keeping close in shore - At 6 we pass a small Bay wherein there appear'd to Anchorage and pretty good shelter from the sea winds, at the entrence of which lies a Rock pretty high above water. 4 Miles farther to the west N. West is a very conspicuous promontory or Point of land which we got abreast of by 7 oClock It lies in the Latitude of 36°..26' So and N 48° West 9 Leagues from the north head of Bay Point Mercury From this point the land trends W1/2 S, near one League then SSE as far as we could see. Besides the Islands laying without us we could see land round by the S.W. as far as NW. but wheather this was the Main or Islands was not possible for us at this time to determine. the fear of looseing the Main land determined me to follow its diriction, with this View we ha^uled round the point and Steer'd to the Southward, but meeting with whifleing light airs all round the Compass we made but little progress untill noon, when we found our selves by observation in the Latd of 36°..29' So A small Island which lies NW 4 Miles from the promontory above mentioned bore NBE distant 61/2 Miles. being at this time about 2 Miles from the Shore. While we lay under the land two large Canoes came off to us, in one of them was were 62 people, they stay'd about us some time then began to throw stones into the Ship. upon which I fired a Musquet ball thro' one of the boats, after this they retired ashore
19 November 1769
Sunday 19th At 1 PM a breeze sprung up at East which afterwards came to NE and with it we steer'd along shore SBE and SSE, having from 25 to 18 fathom water. At half past 7 ^having run 7 or 8 Leags sence noon we Anchor'd in 23 fm not chooseing to run any further in the dark, having the land on both sides of us, forming the entrence of a Streight, Bay or River laying in SBE for on that point of the Compass we could see no land. At Day light AM, the wind being still favourable, we weigh'd and run under an easy sail up the Inlet keeping nearest the East side. Soon after we had got under Sail three large canoes came off to the Ship and several of the People came on board upon the very first invitation; this was owing to their having heard of our being upon the Coast and the manner we had treated the Natives. I made each of those that came on board a small present and after about an hours stay they went away well satisfied. After having run five Leagues from the place where we anchor'd last night our depth of water gradually decreased to 6 fathom and into less I did not choose to go, and as the wind was right in blow'd right up the inlet and tide of flood we came too an Anchor nearly in the middle of the Channell which is here about 11 Miles over and after this sent two Boats to Sound the one on one side and the other on the other —
Banks's Journal: Daily Entries
© Derived from State Library of NSW 1998 Transcription of Banks's Endeavour Journal page (vol.2) 70, 2004
Published by South Seas, using the Web Academic Resource Publisher
To cite this page use: http://nla.gov.au/nla.cs-ss-jrnl-banks-17691105
15 November 1769
15. Little wind and that foul, sail however. Several canoes were on board and in one of them Torava who sayd that as soon as ever we are gone he must go to his heppah or fort, for the freinds of the man who was killd on the 9th threatend to revenge themselves upon him as being a freind to us.
16 November 1769
16. Wind foul as yesterday. Many Islands were seen but neither the main or them appeard at all Fertile or well inhabited; only one town was seen all day and no people, indeed we were rather too far off.
17 November 1769
17. Foul wind and blowing fresh, so that we did not come near enough to the land to make many observations.
18 November 1769
18. Fine weather and Fair wind today repayd us for yesterdays Tossing. The countrey appeard pleasant and well wooded. At 7 we were abreast of a remarkable bare point jutting far into the sea; on it stood many people who seemd to take but little notice of us but talkd together with much earnestness. In about _ an hour we saw canoes put off almost at the same time from several different places and come towards us, on which these people also put off a small Canoe they had with them and came likwise towards us, she soon came up with us and had in her 20 people and soon after another with 35. They sung the song of Defiance as usual which we took very little notice of, in about _ an hour they threw 3 or 4 stones on board and then departed towards the shore; we though[t] we were quite clear of them but they soon returnd as if inclind (which I beleive is the common policy of these people) to provoke us to shew them whether we had or not arms superior to theirs. Tupia who I beleive guessd that they were coming to attack us immediately went upon the poop and talkd to them a good deal, telling them what if they provokd us we should do and how easily we could in a moment destroy them all. They answerd him in their usual cant 'come ashore only and we will kill you all'. Well, said Tupia, but while we are at sea you have no manner of Business with us, the Sea is our property as much as yours. Such reasoning from an Indian who had not had the smallest hint from any of us surprizd me much and the more as these were sentiments I never had before heard him give a hint about in his own case. All his preaching however had little effect for they soon renewd their stone attack, on which a musquet ball was fird through one of their boats on which they dropd astern and left us. At night the ship was in a place which some people conjecturd to be a channel betwixt an Island and the main, others a deep bay, where she came to an anchor.
19 November 1769
19. This morn two Canoes came from the land who said they knew Torava and calld Tupia by his name. We took some of them onboard who behavd very well. Afterwards canoes came from the other side of the bay who likewise mentiond Toravas name and sent a young man into the ship Who told us that he was the old mans grandson: we never suspected him to have had so much influence. In the evening it came on thick and misty so we came to an anchor not a little pleasd to find our selves at least in a peaceable countrey.
Parkinson's Journal
© Derived from the London 1773 edition printed for Stanfield Parkinson, page 103, 2004
Published by South Seas, using the Web Academic Resource Publisher
To cite this page use: http://nla.gov.au/nla.cs-ss-jrnl-parkinson-142
On the 16th, in the morning, the weather being very fair, we weighed anchor, and stood out to sea, but, having a strong breeze from the west, which was against us all this day and the next, being the l7th, we did nothing but beat to windward. The country in view appeared rather barren, and had but few signs of inhabitants. We saw several islands, which we named Mercury islands.
On the 18th, in the morning, we passed between the main and an island which appeared to be very fertile, and as large as Yoolee-Etea. Two canoes came to us from the main, having carved heads, like those we had seen in the bay of Opoorangee: one of them was longer than the other, and had sixty of the natives in her: they gazed at us awhile, and then gave us several heivos; but the breeze freshening, they were obliged to drop astern, and we soon left them. The coast hereabout is full of islands: the name of the largest is Waootaia; and one of the small ones is called Matoo Taboo. After we had passed this island, (the passage between which and the main we named Port Charles,) it seemed as if we were in a large bay, the land surrounding us on every side, excepting a-head, where we could discover none: we bent our course that way, and got, at length, inclosed between two shores, which seemed to form a kind of strait. Night coming on, we anchored here, not daring to venture farther, as we knew not whether we were in a strait or a bay. The land on both sides of us appeared very broken, and had a high and bold shore, tolerably well cloathed with verdure; but it appeared to be thinly inhabited; nor did we see any signs of cultivation. There are many small islands along the shore, among which are some good harbours.
On the 19th, in the morning, several of the natives came on board of us: their canoes were the largest we had seen, and the people in them behaved very friendly. By what we could learn, they had got intelligence of us from the people that inhabit the country about Opoorangee Bay, which is not very distant. They told us this was not an entrance into the main, but a deep bay. Some of them presented us with a large parcel of smoaked eels, which tasted very sweet and luscious. We observed that the natives mode of salutation was by putting their noses together.
We sailed along till we came to six fathoms water, and then let go our anchor. The weather being hazy, we could not have so good a view of the land upon the coast as we wished to have; but it appeared to be well covered with wood, and some parts of it cultivated. This day we caught a considerable quantity of fish, with hook and line, of the scienna or bream kind. The natives call this harbour Ooahaowragee.
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